I M INTERESTED IN HAND LOADING 45ACP & 223/556, IS IT WORTH IT FOR ME, WHERE TO START

Straight wall pistol cartridges are by far the easiest and most economical to reload And will have the biggest impact on your shooting activities in the short-term. And .45 ACP is the easiest and most forgiving of pistol cartridges to reload. As you gain confidence and knowledge you can later move on to bottleneck rifle cartridges. Honestly 5.56/.223 is inexpensive right now so focus on your .45. A good turret press or honestly the Dillon Square Deal B should be your first purchase I think.
 
I started off with reloading 45 acp first and while the cost savings aren't huge. I used to go to the range, empty a box of my 45 out of 1911 and call it quits, now I go and will shoot 3x as much. That being said, I'm glad I reload as the quality of the ammo I can make is far better than what I buy IMO. Rifle reloading doesn't seem to be cost effective but the ammo can be made better for your purposes.

Now, you can use the hand press to reload all of those calibers, I did 303 british on my hand press and it worked. But it was very very hard and I consider myself a strong person. After resizing 40 303 by hand, that was enough to convince me I needed a new press. If you are serious about rifle reloading, go bench and go rock chucker. I just made the transition and it was worth it. If you aren't sure if you will stick with reloading try the hand press for 45 only and see if you like it, that way you minimize your initial investment.

While the square deal is a good choice, note that the dies are not usable AFAIK with other presses, so if you go that route it will be more costly to switch in the future.
 
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Check out the Hornady lnl ap. You really cant go wrong. It's red not blue. You can save a few bucks and get the same results. This is my opinion and probably going to hear it. I own one and it is awesome. If you have a problem....they back it up free.... for ever. Cant beat the price. Thats my 2 cents .
 
Wow, that's a whole lot of info but exactly what I need to hear. Thanks to everyone. I will try & pick up a book sometime this week. Sounds like 45acp may be a good choice to start with. I have noticed I see more of the pre measured powder scoops for Lee reloading than I do with any other brand of reloading equipment. Are the premier measured not a good idea? Or can you scoop the powder, then weigh it on a scale to confirm the scoop is accurate, mark the powder level if there isn't one, then fill the scoop to that level? What type or brand of powder for charging 45acp & type of primers? Definitely going to need reading material. I may get the 30$ kit to see how I like it, & will probably steamroll into a bigger thing.
 
Wow, that's a whole lot of info but exactly what I need to hear. Thanks to everyone. I will try & pick up a book sometime this week. Sounds like 45acp may be a good choice to start with. I have noticed I see more of the pre measured powder scoops for Lee reloading than I do with any other brand of reloading equipment. Are the premier measured not a good idea? Or can you scoop the powder, then weigh it on a scale to confirm the scoop is accurate, mark the powder level if there isn't one, then fill the scoop to that level? What type or brand of powder for charging 45acp & type of primers? Definitely going to need reading material. I may get the 30$ kit to see how I like it, & will probably steamroll into a bigger thing.

I often use Lee scoops for the speed, but seldom does a scoop match exactly what I want. I throw a slightly low charge onto the scale and use a Redding powder trickler to get the charge right on the money. This is great when working near max loads.

Even if you have the correct scoop, it's STILL good to have a scale because the scoops don't exactly throw what the chart says they do. Lee makes the charges thrown a little low for safety purposes. If you have a scale, you KNOW what you are throwing. If I'm loading the typical .38 target load of 2.8 grains of Bullseye, I use the scoop from the Lee Handloader that I've verified against a lab scale.

Infinitely adjustable powder measures are great, but you still need a scale. A Lee balance scale doesn't cost but about $25 bucks and you can go up from there. Don't plan on getting a digital for less than $100. Cheaper digital scales have numerous problems, I believe with a few exceptions, but I almost always hear bad news about cheaper digitals.

PS Type of powder depends on the type of shooting your are doing. Fast powders like Bullseye are good for targets, but medium burning powders like Unique give a little more velocity. Of consideration in an auto pistol is that the load has to work the action, whether it's a snappy recoil or more of a 'push' recoil.

Loading manuals and the data sections of powder manufacturers web pages will list about 10 powders that will 'work'. Pistol powder has been scarce so you might not find the 'ideal' powder, but you can use something similar.

PB, Blue Dot, Power Pistol, 700X, WST, SR 7625, SR 4756, 231, WSF, Accurate #5, American Select, Hogdon Universal, Red Dot, Green Dot and more work with .45 ACP.

PPS: When using fast powders like Bullseye and Titegroup the charge barely covers the bottom of the case so it's easy to do the dreaded "DOUBLE CHARGE". A double charge of fast burning powder will wreck your gun and maybe you along with it. Make your reloading routine such to minimize chances of that happening. I use two loading blocks, one on the left and one on the right. AND I check the levels in the cases with a flashlight before seating bullets.

PPPS: As a supplement to your 'how to' manuals, Youtube has a lot of videos of reloading in action. If there is a conflict between what you hear, see and read, always stick with the published data, whether from a loading manual or from the manufacturer's website.

PPPPS: A caliper for measuring cases is needed for rifle and semi auto pistol cartridges.
 
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I've been reloading for a couple of years. I got a long term loan on a Dillon 650, but I had been through the basics on a rock chucker 30 years ago. Believe it or not, I just discovered the Lee Classic loaders. I use the Dillon for high volume, but I really enjoy using the classic just to load a few 30-30 or 45-70 for shooting down range. I think it takes me back to the basics. I'd recommend a manual or two and the Lee Classic if you are just starting out. And if you can, find a mentor somewhere near you. You will have a lot of questions.
 
The Lee Loaders and dippers, or a a scale, are good for maybe 30-40 rounds at a whack (pun intended). Load more than that, and it gets tedious really quick. It just takes time. Just 100 rounds with a Lee Loader is hours. Next step up is a Lee hand press. 60-70 rounds at a time starts to takes quite a bit of time. A bench mounted, single-stage press will get you up to about 100 rounds at a time. Adding a powder measure speeds things up. But, 100 rounds of this, and 100 rounds of that, and you are up to, at least, a couple of hours of work. More time at first. You speed up over time. If you have the time, and not much money, then the lower cost stuff will produce good quality ammo. But, loading 300 rounds... hope you're patient.
 
I just watched a youtube video of a guy using a Lee reloading kit for 45acp that involved nothing complex, just doing things in the correct order with the correct supplied tool(s). Seemed simple enough for a caveman using that kit, did a little research & found that kit may not even be produced anymore. Then I stumbled onto the various hand priming tools that look easier & safer to use than the Lee kit which requires a bunch of hammering. My shooting schedule is usually every other weekend & can be anywhere from 100 - 300 rounds of 556 & 1-200 rounds of 45acp fired. Would it be worth it for me to reload? I would have time the on the off week & weekend that I do not go to the range, to reload. I'm not looking to spend a fortune on reloading equipment & really only want hand type tools that do not require mounting to a bench. As far as the tools go, what else do I need in addition to say a Rcbs hand priming tool?

For those calibers and volumes, I think the Dillon 550B would be the baseline equipment, saving you from going too cheap and then discovering your output is too slow.
 
So if I were using NEW brass, does it require tumbling? I would prefer to start with new brass for my 1st run, then use those as many times as possible.
 
Brass in general doesn't requiring tumbling IMO. I've been reloading for about a year and a half now and have not yet tumbled my brass. It looks dingy but it functions fine.

You NEED a scale, yes the powder scoops can be used but they are intended for use with a scale. Powder scoops are inherently volumetric measuring devices but what you are actually concerned with is the mass of the charge. Additionally I have found that the listed densities given by the Lee chart are not very accurate. The cost of measuring the charges is time, the cost of not measuring the charges is possible loss of gun, limb or life.

For 45acp I've used Bullseye, back when you could find it, unique, trail boss and power pistol with CCI and Federal Match primers. Primer type really didn't matter, Bullseye gave the best results but good luck finding it right now.
 
So if I were using NEW brass, does it require tumbling? I would prefer to start with new brass for my 1st run, then use those as many times as possible.

New brass does not need tumbling/cleaning. Fresh out of the package, it's as shiny and clean as it gets. 45ACP brass will last a long time. 45ACP is a rather low pressure cartridge. Does not stretch the brass much. 5.56 can get pretty high pressure. Cases will stretch some, with use. If you load 'em up to near max, you'll get several reloads out of 'em, but they won't last as many reloads as 45ACP will.
 
Yeah 45acp brass is near immortal. I used to have a set of 45 acp brass that I had marked and kept their lengths after each reload in an excel sheet. This was resolved down to the specific piece of brass. The difference in lengths was very small after each use, so small it's hard to measure consistently. You'll lose more 45 brass from a poor extraction or getting hit by the slide on the way out. Once fired brass can be alot cheaper and there's not much of a downside to using it.
 
I'm not looking to spend a fortune on reloading equipment & really only want hand type tools that do not require mounting to a bench. As far as the tools go, what else do I need in addition to say a Rcbs hand priming tool?
Unless you just have tons of time & like to go slow, hand tools for reloading are just a PITA. A min would be a decent single stage press clamped to a folding workmate. Dies & shell holders for each caliber, a good scale & powder measure & that would be my min. IT could all be stored away in a small foot locker, which could be used as a table for your scale & measure when loading. That setup will produce about 60rds per hour, start to finish, if you are organized.
 
You're shooting around 10,000 rounds per year. You can't afford to screw around reloading one cartridge at a time. Investigate progressive presses.

Even if you only save $0.10 per round by reloading, that's $1000 per year. Don't skimp on equipment. It's an investment.
 
I started out with a LEE Challenger singe stage which was included in the LEE Anniversey kit. I quickly tired of the tedium and got the Hornady LNLAP. Most everyone recommends starting out on a single stage and then moving on to a progressive. I'm not sure that is necessary, although it does simplify the learning process a bit.

IMO, you are shooting plenty enough to justify a progressive press. Like a lot of beginners, you are fixated on the initial cost of the press and ignoring the cost of other the required tools (dies, scale, powder thrower, shell holders, etc), components, your time, and savings over buying commercial. At your shooting volume, the cost of the press will quickly be paid for.

Don't underestimate the cost in time. With a single stage, I found reloading turning into a full time job and I shoot less than you. A hand press will be much worse.

My point of view is from one who doesn't really like reloading, so I want to spend as little time as possible doing it. I view it as a necessary chore that enables me to shoot more, gives me the freedom to shoot loads that I prefer that aren't available commercially, and allowed me to continue shooting through the recent ammo shortages.
 
New brass does not need tumbling/cleaning. Fresh out of the package, it's as shiny and clean as it gets. 45ACP brass will last a long time. 45ACP is a rather low pressure cartridge. Does not stretch the brass much. 5.56 can get pretty high pressure. Cases will stretch some, with use. If you load 'em up to near max, you'll get several reloads out of 'em, but they won't last as many reloads as 45ACP will.

New brass doesn't require tumbling, but I've found that new squeaky clean brass goes through the dies MUCH harder than used. The dust and residue from the tumbler helps lube the cases.
 
I guess I should start sifting through all of the brass I have been saving, most were new name brand store bought ammo. So it's ONCE fired brass
 
All good advice, but it neglects one detail. Finding the powders appropriate for 45, 9mm, and 5.56 223 is difficult.
As boring as it may sound, I suggest that you add a 30-30 to your collection.
If not that, one of the other wheezing geezer lever actions such as 45-70, 38-55, 32-20 and the like.
Even a 22 hornet.
The thing is with these cartridges is that they all use similar powders, which just happen to be the few powders people can find with fair regularity.
Once they find them, they tend to leave them, because they are useless in high speed low drag tacticool chamberings such as 223 and the pistol calibers.

The point here is that reloading is a fine discipline to lean, practice, and master.
Having a pile of shiny new equipment with nothing to do is a setup for the overwhelming temptation to do something stupid.
Even the magnum handgun calibers are a better place to start than auto pistols.
 

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