I wouldn't think the shape of that bullet would cause any trouble. Have you tried other mags? (I am wondering if the mag you are using might have been damaged without you realizing it.)
I think I fixed my 1911...
- Thread starter sipowicz
- Start date
Recoil spring kit
This will save you a lot of headaches.
If you have ruled out magazine springs (used a new and or different magazine) and the ejector (not extractor) is pinned in solid and not moving, try the different weigh springs in this kit.
You do not need the rubber buffer things (JMB did not design the gun with those
)
Wilson Combat Spring Caddy 1911 Government - MidwayUSA
This will save you a lot of headaches.
If you have ruled out magazine springs (used a new and or different magazine) and the ejector (not extractor) is pinned in solid and not moving, try the different weigh springs in this kit.
You do not need the rubber buffer things (JMB did not design the gun with those
)Wilson Combat Spring Caddy 1911 Government - MidwayUSA
OP
sipowicz
Member
I tried different mags and it still did it..no biggie anyway...I think I may trade it in for another gun at my LGS..I will be taking a bit less than a PPT but I wouldn't PPT it knowing a gun doesn't run right. I'm sure with the right ammo and a little tweaking, it could be made to run right...I've been hankering for a P220 anyway...
OP
sipowicz
Member
Dave, it also did it with our duty Ranger T ammo as you can see in the first pic...To be honest...I'm not a big fan of the stippling either...really chews up my hands...I could buy some gloves, but buying a new gun is more fun...
BigBill
Absent Comrade
I had a 1990's springfield armory 1911a1 series 90 in 45acp in black park in the safe since 1990. Its a NM with the tighter slide and larger sights. Since 1990 she would jam one round per mag. I would take it out after years of sitting in the safe it would jam and away it went into the blackhole in the safe for many years again. Previous to this I had a new 70's colt 1911 and an 80's colt that gave me jamming problems too there long gone but this SA in black park is a looker.
Now I was completely disgusted with the 1911's and was almost ready to give up on them when i found a used norinco 1911 for $300. I've only heard great things about the norinco's. The first trip to the range WOW what a great pistol the 1911 really is. It took a chinese 1911 to show me how good they really are. I forgot completely about the SA 1911 in the safe and started enjoying the norinco even more. Now i know what all the 1911 hype is all about.
I've changed out barrels before in 98k mausers and dealt with headspace so i know a little with rifles.
I wanted to tweek my norinco and make a few changes to make it better. I purchased the Jerry K 1911 45acp armorers video and his 1911 shop manual. I read and watched them over and over. Being a class A machine builder/erector and a leadtech for otis elevator engineering world headquarters i worked in the test lab. Being an ex auto/jeep/light truck mechanic I pretty much know my way around anything thats mechanical. I figured how hard can it be to work on the 1911.
I ordered anew G.I. 1911 barrel in 45acp from sportsmans guide for just $59 and a full length guide rod kit with the #18 recoil spring for $9 on sale. I then ordered a national match barrel bushing too from CDNN investments for $9 too.
The barrel bushing in my norinco rattled in the slide it was so loose. I fitted the NM bushing to my norc slide first. Then i fitted the new barrel to the bushing and slide. I fitted it so there was no barrel spring when it was in full battery and when it was lowered to load the next round. I had no barrel spring at all and i had 100% lock up in full battery. I checked the engagement of the lugs and she was in spec. I lubed it all with moly and took her to the range to test fire it. I found with using wolf 45acp ball ammo she has less over travel, no wasted time in cycling so it cycles much faster and its smoother when it cycles now too. I did find out she shoots 1 clover leaf per mag no matter who shoots it. Even with a loose slide to frame fit. I just wanted to do a ha, ha, build just to see and learn as i went. I ened up with a really nice good shooter too in the process. I made more changes too on it. I installed an adjustable trigger and machined a ramp for the disconnector. The ramp for the disconnector removes the "bump" when the disconnector hits that square edge on the slide. The area i'm talking about is below the firing pin hole. Now i can't wait to try some good target ammo in it next.
Then it hit me that i had the SA 1911 in the safe that stove pipes 1rd per mag. Hmmm????? Ok i figured out its a loose extractor. Simple there was no tention on it. I ordered all the 1911 tools for tuning the 1911 extractor and went to work.
The first trip to the range my 1990 still brand new SA 1911 shoots and cycles awesome. I'm happy i kept it.
I'm so impressed i ordered the wilson combat dvd's and the 1911 AGI dvd's too. During the winter at night i watch all the dvd's over and over to keep everything fresh in my mind.
Someday i'd like to tighten up the loose slide to frame rail fit but i'm also looking at different ways of doing it. I'm not fond of the peening. I think there is a better way we can tighten it up just a tad. We can have it too snug or we lose the reliability/dependability.
We ran 500rds thru the norc so far and its been flawless. Were going to do the 500rd test soon on my 1990's 1911. If it passes the 500rd test then i feel safe carrying it.
The 1911 isn't that hard to work on once we find the problem.
We can do anything we put are minds too just never give up. I don't expect to ever be a guru gunsmith but i can repair my own guns. Bill
Here's a pic of my 1990 SA series 90 1911a1 in 45acp.
Now I was completely disgusted with the 1911's and was almost ready to give up on them when i found a used norinco 1911 for $300. I've only heard great things about the norinco's. The first trip to the range WOW what a great pistol the 1911 really is. It took a chinese 1911 to show me how good they really are. I forgot completely about the SA 1911 in the safe and started enjoying the norinco even more. Now i know what all the 1911 hype is all about.
I've changed out barrels before in 98k mausers and dealt with headspace so i know a little with rifles.
I wanted to tweek my norinco and make a few changes to make it better. I purchased the Jerry K 1911 45acp armorers video and his 1911 shop manual. I read and watched them over and over. Being a class A machine builder/erector and a leadtech for otis elevator engineering world headquarters i worked in the test lab. Being an ex auto/jeep/light truck mechanic I pretty much know my way around anything thats mechanical. I figured how hard can it be to work on the 1911.
I ordered anew G.I. 1911 barrel in 45acp from sportsmans guide for just $59 and a full length guide rod kit with the #18 recoil spring for $9 on sale. I then ordered a national match barrel bushing too from CDNN investments for $9 too.
The barrel bushing in my norinco rattled in the slide it was so loose. I fitted the NM bushing to my norc slide first. Then i fitted the new barrel to the bushing and slide. I fitted it so there was no barrel spring when it was in full battery and when it was lowered to load the next round. I had no barrel spring at all and i had 100% lock up in full battery. I checked the engagement of the lugs and she was in spec. I lubed it all with moly and took her to the range to test fire it. I found with using wolf 45acp ball ammo she has less over travel, no wasted time in cycling so it cycles much faster and its smoother when it cycles now too. I did find out she shoots 1 clover leaf per mag no matter who shoots it. Even with a loose slide to frame fit. I just wanted to do a ha, ha, build just to see and learn as i went. I ened up with a really nice good shooter too in the process. I made more changes too on it. I installed an adjustable trigger and machined a ramp for the disconnector. The ramp for the disconnector removes the "bump" when the disconnector hits that square edge on the slide. The area i'm talking about is below the firing pin hole. Now i can't wait to try some good target ammo in it next.
Then it hit me that i had the SA 1911 in the safe that stove pipes 1rd per mag. Hmmm????? Ok i figured out its a loose extractor. Simple there was no tention on it. I ordered all the 1911 tools for tuning the 1911 extractor and went to work.
The first trip to the range my 1990 still brand new SA 1911 shoots and cycles awesome. I'm happy i kept it.
I'm so impressed i ordered the wilson combat dvd's and the 1911 AGI dvd's too. During the winter at night i watch all the dvd's over and over to keep everything fresh in my mind.
Someday i'd like to tighten up the loose slide to frame rail fit but i'm also looking at different ways of doing it. I'm not fond of the peening. I think there is a better way we can tighten it up just a tad. We can have it too snug or we lose the reliability/dependability.
We ran 500rds thru the norc so far and its been flawless. Were going to do the 500rd test soon on my 1990's 1911. If it passes the 500rd test then i feel safe carrying it.
The 1911 isn't that hard to work on once we find the problem.
We can do anything we put are minds too just never give up. I don't expect to ever be a guru gunsmith but i can repair my own guns. Bill
Here's a pic of my 1990 SA series 90 1911a1 in 45acp.
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Big Cholla
Member
No shock buff Deadaye...and I will check the recoil spring next time I shoot it...Cholla told me to check the ejection and see if the shell ejects 5-10 feet behind me...if not, I will change out the spring to another new 16 and grab a 14 just in case the ammo is too weak.....it is 7 years old but I don't think it has more than a 1000 rounds thru it...
Sip: No, I told you that the brass should be 5 to 10 ft to your RIGHT and only slightly behind the muzzle.
The last picture you posted indicates that the bullet nose design or OverAllLength of the ammo is causing a 'bounce' during the chambering of the next round and it never gets centered enough to be pushed into the chamber. Change ammo with a different bullet design, seat the bullets a little deeper into the case or have a Model 1911 smith alter the feed ramp of the barrel. ............ Big Cholla
OP
sipowicz
Member
All good advice...thanks guys...and Cholla, I meant to my right...duh, I'm a bit tired.....Big Bill, good info...I have a fiend who is going to look at it...he is pretty handy with M14s and 1911s...
JcMack
Member
If you dry fire your Kimber with a snap cap. Do not load the snap cap by dropping it in the chamber and then closing the slide. Doing it that way will cause the extractor to snap over the rim of the cap and bend it. Just a word to the wise. I've seen guys do this to wind up with 8 rds. (including loaded chamber) without having to reload 1 cartridge in the magoziny.
I'd try regular old hard ball (round nose) .45ACP before I did anything to the gun.
JMB designed the gun around a specific bullet - Try them first.
There's also reference above about the bullet bouncing.
I'm not really sure what that meant
But - In a 1911 the bullets don't *slide* up the feed ramp - they do indeed *bounce* a bit.
This is normal.
JMB designed the gun around a specific bullet - Try them first.
There's also reference above about the bullet bouncing.
I'm not really sure what that meant
But - In a 1911 the bullets don't *slide* up the feed ramp - they do indeed *bounce* a bit.
This is normal.
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That's right! If John Moses wanted the 1911 to run anything else, he would have invented it!
Put the 18 lb spring back in, run a box of 230 Gr. Hardball through her - and another, and another ...
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