Identifying a S&W revolver

[gun_newbie]

I recently inherited a S&W 357 Mag revolver from my grandfather, but don't know anything about it including model or history. Any help on where to find any info about it would be great. Thanks.

 

[gun_newbie]

I recently inherited a S&W 357 Mag revolver from my grandfather, but don't know anything about it including model or history. Any help on where to find any info about it would be great. Thanks.

 

[jeremyws1]

You are in the right place. Let's start with a serial number and model. When you swing out the cylinder, what is stamped on the frame below the barrel? Also, what number (and letter) is on the butt of the frame (if it has grips that cover the butt, take them off)?

 

[panamajack310]

Hi, welcome to the forum. If you can post a picture of your revolver on here it will help us to ID your revolver...If you open the cylinder and look on the crane..see the pic below...look for a 2 or 3 digit number followed by possibly a -...example 13-1,19-4,27-2,
28-4,65-7,66,586-1,686,627-5...these are the model numbers for S&W .357 magnums...

 

[VM]

Welcome to the Forum gun_newbie!

This might help you with pictures
http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/590103904/m/3011047303

I'd love to see another cool RM story! (wishful thinking)

 

[gun_newbie]

O.K. I looked and the serial is K541878 and the model is 19-2. I think it was from when my grandpa was a police officer. I'm just curious when it was manufactured and any model specific info I should know about. Thanks for all the help.

 

[VM]

1963

Still like to see pics even if it's not a Registered Magnum!

 

[gun_newbie]

Thanks for the quick reply. What's the easiest way to post an image?

 

[VM]

click this link

http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/590103904/m/3011047303

 

[gun_newbie]

 

[panamajack310]

WOW look at those Cokes....that is a nice looking revolver with some history to it...hang on to it....although not woth a fortune...that one should hold some real value knowing what it did for a living....as a COPS gun....
Listen if you shoot the gun only use this kind of round...you want to use 158 grain .357 magnum or 158 grain .38 special...do not shoot anything less than 158grain bullets as it will crack the forcing cone that is the beginging of the barrel infront of the cylinder. I just had mine crack and now I have to replace the barrel and cylinder..The K frames were designed to shoot .38 specials a-lot and shoot .357 magnum rounds every now and then. good luck and look for more posts on K frames...

 

[Double-O-Dave]

I'd like to add to Panamajack's response - 148gr. wadcutter (target round) will be okay also. the 125gr. JHP in .357 Magnum are the real screamers that will cause problems that have been described by Panamajack.

Regards,

Dave

 

[VM]

Nice picture - cool old gun newbie!

pj310 - not cokes. Those are K frame diamond target stocks.
Cokes were N frame.

 

[jeremyws1]

Here are some basics:

The .357 Combat Magnum (Model 19) was shipped from 1955 until 1999. The -2 engineering change was shipped from 1961 until 1967. As mentioned, your gun was most likely shipped around 1963. Your gun has a 4" barrel, red ramp front sight, probable white outline rear sight, standard trigger, semi-target hammer, and relieved diamond target grips (NOT "Cokes"). The grips seem to be made out of goncalo alves. I hope that helps.

 

[Imaposer]

Ok, just for some clarification. I was always under the assumption that the forcing cone issue on K frame .357 revolvers like the M-19 and M-66 was with the lighter weight (125gr) full pressure .357 magnum loads. I thought that the lower pressure, or even +P, .38 special loads were ok regardless of bullet weight. Have I been operating under a false understanding of this issue all these years?

 

[gun_newbie]

Thanks for all the help and great info. I'll definitely be doing more research on K frames. I will also be definitely holding on to this gun. Unfortunately my grandpa didn't really talk much about that time in his life and he's fading fast. I'm sure being a detective in Vegas during the 60-70's that this gun has seen some stuff. This one will be staying in the family. I also had a question regarding bluing. There's a lot of wear around the cylinder and end of the barrel. I think this is from the holster. My question is how easy is it to re-blue and is it a problem if I don't. Thanks again.

 

[Stranglehold]

Gun_newbie, I think the consensus here will be to leave the gun just as it is. It earned that wear honestly and every character mark connects it to your grandfather. Keep it, shoot it, enjoy it, but I would urge you to leave it in it's "heirloom" condition. By the way, welcome! Stick around, there is lots to learn.

Roe

 

[VM]

g_n - glad to hear it is staying in family.
You don't need to reblue. A good cleaning is all you ever need to do. Shoot it and enjoy it!

 

[gun_newbie]

Thanks for the recommendation. I was kind of leaning that way, leaving it as is, but was curious. I figured keep it clean and oiled and it should be fine. This is a great forum.

 

[Jack Flash]

Some people like to reblue, but that would destroy the originality of the gun and thus diminish any collector value.

I will join the others who say cleaning it and keeping it oiled is the way to go.