IDPA - what revolver are you shooting?
- Thread starter Hotshot Charlie
- Start date
Pizza Bob
Member
I honestly don't remember. It was slightly beyond original promise / website back-log time, but he went above and beyond by molding it using a friends 646. I figured a 686 blue gun would be fine, but since he knew where there was a 646, he used that. Perfectly satisfied with the service and the end result. All good things are worth waiting for.
Adios,
Pizza Bob
Gryff
Member
4" model 686 is what I use in SSR.
kimberst245
Member
I shoot a stock 4" 586 with comp II loaders for SSR. The only thing I did to it was change the wood to Pachmayr grips. For ESR, I use my again, stock TR22-4. Hogue rubber grips on this one with some red/Orange paint on the front sight so I can see it better. I'm not a champion, but they are both a blast to run at the local matches.
First of all, sorry for bumping this thread, but I think it's an interesting topic. I started shooting IDPA about two and half years ago. For the first six months or so, I was shooting a SA 1911. I got deployed so I had to take some time off from competition and had to use what I had learned at the "two way range." When I got back, I decided to get my butt kicked in a different class so I moved out of CDP and into SSP with my XD. I found the trigger pull to be long and uncomfortable, so I switched guns AGAIN and found the M&P. I have found some limited "success" with the M&P and either won my class or placed well in some of my local matches. And since I'm the guy who's always looking for a challenge, I have taken up the wheel gun, just for something different. I have picked up a used, beaten up 586 4" for SSR. I'm shooting the classifier at the end of the month so I need to get in some practice. Any tips for the new wheelgunner are welcomed with open ears!
--Nick
--Nick
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Practice with your speedloaders until you are smooth and consistent, because you can spend more time reloaidng than shooting!
Don't miss with a revolver, because misses drive you to more reloads.
Or as my revolver national champ shooting buddy says, "shoot them all in the middle really fast, and don't waste time reloading."
sbeatty1983
Member
Ive shot a couple matches with my 686. Ive been tossing around the idea of getting another cylinder and having it chambered for 38 super and machined for moon clips for ESR. I can make 165 pf fairly easy with 158-160 gr bullets.
mc5aw
Member
Next season I'm going to try my luck with a Thunder Ranch 325. I just started IDPA this spring, then was out due to shoulder surgery. I did well with a SIG 229, but the potential I've seen with the 325 makes me want to try it out. I'm not looking for blazing times or trophies, just some skills improvement and fun. Practicing with a speed loader/moon clips is tops for the off-season.
Whiscombe
Member
I use a S&W 625-2, with moon clips. Smooth recoil and nice weight.
I shoot SSR (for 1 month now) after shooting CDP, ESP and SSP
I use the model 586 I just got a month ago, with the Master Revolver action package by S&W plus the Jerry Miculek's grip and Springs. I also added a HiViz green front sight.
I buy reloads which are adjusted to the 105 power factor, and
I did A LOT of dry firing, with a chrono, trying to fit the sequence: draw- 6 rounds in 3 "targets", reload and 6 shots in 3 targets in a total of 8.5 (par) seconds.
I use 42 dummy bullets, so I have 7 Comp III's full for this exercise.
This dry fire exercise focus on reloads which is something we have to do often, and It paid off: I managed to get SharpShooter in the classifier this last weekend.
I use the model 586 I just got a month ago, with the Master Revolver action package by S&W plus the Jerry Miculek's grip and Springs. I also added a HiViz green front sight.
I buy reloads which are adjusted to the 105 power factor, and
I did A LOT of dry firing, with a chrono, trying to fit the sequence: draw- 6 rounds in 3 "targets", reload and 6 shots in 3 targets in a total of 8.5 (par) seconds.
I use 42 dummy bullets, so I have 7 Comp III's full for this exercise.
This dry fire exercise focus on reloads which is something we have to do often, and It paid off: I managed to get SharpShooter in the classifier this last weekend.
629Freak
Member
I use a model 646 in 40 S&W. It reloads just a tad slower than my 625, but I feel like can drive the L-frame much faster and easier than the N frame.
I picked up a used 586 that I plan to use for SSR this coming year.
I picked up a used 586 that I plan to use for SSR this coming year.
4.2" Ruger GP-100 only because S&W only recently started making their 686 with a 4.2" barrel to conform to our stupid gun laws. I have qualified SS in ESR with the same gun using .357mag cartridges but it sure is hard on the wrist.
I have considered having a 6" K 38 chopped to 4.2", just haven't got there yet.
I would switch to ESR with a 625 if S&W would come out with a 4.2" barrelled gun.
Take Care
Bob
I have considered having a 6" K 38 chopped to 4.2", just haven't got there yet.
I would switch to ESR with a 625 if S&W would come out with a 4.2" barrelled gun.
Take Care
Bob
DMSC
Member
I'll be using this M64 as soon as I get some K frame speed loaders...
BobR1
Member
I have my new 686-5 ready to try out Saturday in our Outlaw IDPA Match. I finally made it by Power Custom and had Ron Power do a little work on her. Chamfered the chambers, and really improved the function, and trigger pull.
I have 10 new Safariland Comp III speedloaders ready to try out. Since I am shooting an Outlaw Match I will be using a Safariland 333 Speed Loader holder infront of the holster. I will Load & Make Ready with the front speed loader, leaving two for reloads.
Not sure if the 686 will be an improvement over my tricked out 64-3 or not just yet. I got side tracked and forgot to order a Cylinder & Slide Firing Pin for the 686, so it is not totally completed just yet.
I just thought of another thing I need to do before Saturday. Put a Drop of Green Paint on the top of the L Frame Speed Loaders so I do not mix them up with my K Frame speed loaders. That is how I keep track of my Comp II speed loaders I use for Concealed Carry. I normally have 2 K and 2 L speed loaders on my dresser unless they are on my belt.
Bob
I have 10 new Safariland Comp III speedloaders ready to try out. Since I am shooting an Outlaw Match I will be using a Safariland 333 Speed Loader holder infront of the holster. I will Load & Make Ready with the front speed loader, leaving two for reloads.
Not sure if the 686 will be an improvement over my tricked out 64-3 or not just yet. I got side tracked and forgot to order a Cylinder & Slide Firing Pin for the 686, so it is not totally completed just yet.
I just thought of another thing I need to do before Saturday. Put a Drop of Green Paint on the top of the L Frame Speed Loaders so I do not mix them up with my K Frame speed loaders. That is how I keep track of my Comp II speed loaders I use for Concealed Carry. I normally have 2 K and 2 L speed loaders on my dresser unless they are on my belt.
Bob
av8usn
Member
I shoot a S&W JM625, 4" in ESR and the GP100, 4" in SSR. No goodies on my wall, but I have lot of fun.
BobR1
Member
I have added another SSR gun to the mix since I posted above. I adopted a 686-5 with 4" barrel from a Pawn & Gun a while back. I put in some Wolfe Springs then I finally found time to run it by Power Custom for a little TLC by the Old Master, Ron Power. Ron Chamfered the Chambers, and added Ball Loc to it. Then he went to work getting the Cylinder set up perfect. Cylinder Alignment was perfect on all 6 holes.
When Ron got done with it I was totally happy with how it came out.
On 1 December we had out last Outlaw IDPA Match of 2012. I took both my old 4" 64-3 I have been shooting the last two or three years, as well as the new 4" 686-5. I am reloading both with Safariland Comp III Speedloaders. Since I only shoot our Club Outlaw Match at this time, I went with a new Safariland 333 Speedloader Holder for the 686. I only carried 2 speedloaders in it. NOTE: The Safariland 333 is not IDPA Complient.
Well I did pretty well in the match. As would be expected First Place Overall was a Wilson Combat 1911 driven by a semi local Deputy Sheriff who is on the SWAT Team. Very Salty Shooter. My SSR Times came in Second and Third Over all in the match. The 64 score was only 0.95 ahead of the 686 score. Looks like I am running both about the same at the moment.
I still need a little more work on the 686. I was running the stock Red Ramp front sight in good light. It has a pinned front sight so I will probably add a Green Fiber Optic front sight when I make the next Midway Order. I was also carrying it in an old Bianchi Pancake that rides pretty high. I will get Ray to make me an Enhanced Pancake for it shortly. The Lobo Enhanced Pancake rides lower than the Bianchi, and should be a little quicker to draw from.
I have a Novak 1911 Green Fiber Optic front sight for the 64 also. I need to get it installed, requiring a dovetail cut on the barrel.
I will probably cut down the Safariland 333 Speedloader holder to make it a Double and a Single. I will run the Double ahead of the Holster Strong Side. Like I said above the 333 is NOT IDPA Complient.
I have North Mountain Speedloader holders for my K Frame, and the Safariland 333 for the L Frame. If I were to Conceal Carry either of them, the 333 cut down to a double or Single is way more concealable, and the most practical of the two. The Big Blocky North Mountain is probably the BEST LEGAL Speedloader carrier for a Comp III. But it is way to big and blocky for real life carry.
My recomendation for SSR would be:
Revolver: 686 or GP100 Reason: The cylinder swings out further for better Speed Loader access.
Holster: Lobo Enhanced Pancake or Model 1 Pancake. Reason: I hate Kydex Holsters. The Lobo Pancakes are a real useable concealed carry holster that you can draw from.
Speed Loaders: Safariland Comp III Reason: They are long enough to get a hold of. They are Spring Loaded, making them lightning fast to reload with. Reasonably cheap at around $15 if you look around some.
Speed Loader Carriers: North Mountain IDPA Compliant Reason: They are the Best Legal carrier I have seen.
Revolver Work:
Wolf Springs: Probably a 13# or 14# Return Spring. Ribbed Main Spring. I would probably change the Strain Screw to a stainless steel Allen Screw, and Blue Loc Tite it in place after determining a perfect adjustment setting for reliable ignition with your prefered load.
Front Sight: Green Fiber Optic
Cylinder: Chamfer the Chambers. You might want to polish the back 1/3 of the chambers also for more positive extraction.
Grips: I am running Hogue Rubber ones on my 64, S&W Combats on my 686, and Ahrends Round to Square Conversion Combats on my 610. All three seem to work fine for me.
Ammo: If you reload I would use either a Plated 158 Round Nose or a 158 Round Nose Lead bullet. Plated will result in less smoke in front of the gun. Powder? I keep coming back to Unique. Primers: Federal are the easiest to light off with a light hammer fall.
Do not worry about the new 105 Power Factor. Drive them hard enough to take down the Steel reliably. I find that 4.7 - 5.0 of Unique hits hard enough to keep a smile on your face.
With all that said, other guns will also work fine. I have ran my 2-1/2" 66, my 2-1/2" 315 Night Guard, and my 3" 66 in matches, also my 3" 625, and 2-1/2" 310 Night Guard. They are not the best choice to win with, however they are or have been in my concealed carry rotation. I consider my Club Outlaw IDPA Match as reasonably practical practice. In the December Match mentioned above I also ran my 315 Night Guard for the first time. My time was 15 points behind my 686 score. Not all that bad a time for a 2-1/2" Airweight K Frame.
Will a 4" Model 10, 13, 15, 19, 64, 65, 66, 67, etc work just fine for an IDPA Revolver? You Bet
I just think the BEST Choice is probably the 686 or GP100 if you are going to buy an IDPA SSR Revolver to start shooting matches with.
Just My Two Cents
Bob
When Ron got done with it I was totally happy with how it came out.
On 1 December we had out last Outlaw IDPA Match of 2012. I took both my old 4" 64-3 I have been shooting the last two or three years, as well as the new 4" 686-5. I am reloading both with Safariland Comp III Speedloaders. Since I only shoot our Club Outlaw Match at this time, I went with a new Safariland 333 Speedloader Holder for the 686. I only carried 2 speedloaders in it. NOTE: The Safariland 333 is not IDPA Complient.
Well I did pretty well in the match. As would be expected First Place Overall was a Wilson Combat 1911 driven by a semi local Deputy Sheriff who is on the SWAT Team. Very Salty Shooter. My SSR Times came in Second and Third Over all in the match. The 64 score was only 0.95 ahead of the 686 score. Looks like I am running both about the same at the moment.
I still need a little more work on the 686. I was running the stock Red Ramp front sight in good light. It has a pinned front sight so I will probably add a Green Fiber Optic front sight when I make the next Midway Order. I was also carrying it in an old Bianchi Pancake that rides pretty high. I will get Ray to make me an Enhanced Pancake for it shortly. The Lobo Enhanced Pancake rides lower than the Bianchi, and should be a little quicker to draw from.
I have a Novak 1911 Green Fiber Optic front sight for the 64 also. I need to get it installed, requiring a dovetail cut on the barrel.
I will probably cut down the Safariland 333 Speedloader holder to make it a Double and a Single. I will run the Double ahead of the Holster Strong Side. Like I said above the 333 is NOT IDPA Complient.
I have North Mountain Speedloader holders for my K Frame, and the Safariland 333 for the L Frame. If I were to Conceal Carry either of them, the 333 cut down to a double or Single is way more concealable, and the most practical of the two. The Big Blocky North Mountain is probably the BEST LEGAL Speedloader carrier for a Comp III. But it is way to big and blocky for real life carry.
My recomendation for SSR would be:
Revolver: 686 or GP100 Reason: The cylinder swings out further for better Speed Loader access.
Holster: Lobo Enhanced Pancake or Model 1 Pancake. Reason: I hate Kydex Holsters. The Lobo Pancakes are a real useable concealed carry holster that you can draw from.
Speed Loaders: Safariland Comp III Reason: They are long enough to get a hold of. They are Spring Loaded, making them lightning fast to reload with. Reasonably cheap at around $15 if you look around some.
Speed Loader Carriers: North Mountain IDPA Compliant Reason: They are the Best Legal carrier I have seen.
Revolver Work:
Wolf Springs: Probably a 13# or 14# Return Spring. Ribbed Main Spring. I would probably change the Strain Screw to a stainless steel Allen Screw, and Blue Loc Tite it in place after determining a perfect adjustment setting for reliable ignition with your prefered load.
Front Sight: Green Fiber Optic
Cylinder: Chamfer the Chambers. You might want to polish the back 1/3 of the chambers also for more positive extraction.
Grips: I am running Hogue Rubber ones on my 64, S&W Combats on my 686, and Ahrends Round to Square Conversion Combats on my 610. All three seem to work fine for me.
Ammo: If you reload I would use either a Plated 158 Round Nose or a 158 Round Nose Lead bullet. Plated will result in less smoke in front of the gun. Powder? I keep coming back to Unique. Primers: Federal are the easiest to light off with a light hammer fall.
Do not worry about the new 105 Power Factor. Drive them hard enough to take down the Steel reliably. I find that 4.7 - 5.0 of Unique hits hard enough to keep a smile on your face.
With all that said, other guns will also work fine. I have ran my 2-1/2" 66, my 2-1/2" 315 Night Guard, and my 3" 66 in matches, also my 3" 625, and 2-1/2" 310 Night Guard. They are not the best choice to win with, however they are or have been in my concealed carry rotation. I consider my Club Outlaw IDPA Match as reasonably practical practice. In the December Match mentioned above I also ran my 315 Night Guard for the first time. My time was 15 points behind my 686 score. Not all that bad a time for a 2-1/2" Airweight K Frame.
Will a 4" Model 10, 13, 15, 19, 64, 65, 66, 67, etc work just fine for an IDPA Revolver? You Bet
I just think the BEST Choice is probably the 686 or GP100 if you are going to buy an IDPA SSR Revolver to start shooting matches with.
Just My Two Cents
Bob
cowboy85306
Member
howdy- thank to all FOR AN OUTSTANDING thread full of stuff I would not have known to ask about before going in, and then, only one item at a time as they would chance to come up. Like stuff better when I don't have to reinvent the wheel time and time again. Thanks to all for sharing so much!
I was lucky enuf to make expert, first time out w/a 586 (trigger job by JoJo's of Southington, CT) any game in revo, is about the RELOADS!
