If You Were Going to Buy Your Very 1st J-Frame What Would You Pick?

[Macinaw]

That's easy. An older one from maybe back in the sixties or early seventies.

My reasons? I like older guns. I subscribe to the idea that they really don't make 'em like they used to. And if you're a good enough shot, you don't need +P, anyway.

I agree; please tell everyone what model you have shown.

 

[John R]

I'd buy a model 442, 642, or a model 36 without the lock.

 

[DTL]

This thread has claimed it's first victim!

I stopped by my buddy's gun shop this afternoon, just to say hi and see if he had anything new and interesting. Well, it turns out he had just gotten a 340pd in and I couldn't pass it up! Unfortunately, CA has a 10-day Constitutional Infringement Period, so I'll have to wait post pics. Thank you/screw you all for the great pics! You sucked me in!!

 

[Watchdog]

...please tell everyone what model you have shown.

Thanks for asking. The gun is a Model 36 No Dash that left the S&W factory in May of 1967. Three-inch barrel with elk antler stags by Patrick Grashorn. It's a great little gun.

 

[ginzo]

Got this from a forum member when I was on the hunt for a J, helped me immensely! I won't mention his name unless he chimes in. He has been very generous with his knowledge and time.



With regard to finishes, generally, any model number that begins with a "6" is stainless steel or silver-anodized/clear-coated aluminum alloy. Any model number that begins with a "0", "3", "4", or "5" is blued steel or black-anodized/clear-coated aluminum alloy (or scandium alloy). There are exceptions, of course.

With regard to features or caliber...no there isn't really any scheme.

A listing of calibers/models (mostly complete):
.22 Long Rifle caliber: Model 34, 35, 43, 63, 317
.22 Magnum caliber: Model 51, 351, 650, 651
.32 Long caliber: Model 30, 31
.32 H&R Magnum caliber: Model 032, 331, 332, 431, 432, 631, 632
.327 Federal Magnum caliber: Model 632
.38 S&W caliber: Model 32, 33
.38 Special caliber: Model 36, 37, 38, 40, 42, 49, 50, 60, 042, 337, 342, 442, 460 (perf. center), 637, 638, 640, 642, 649
.357 Magnum caliber: Model 60, 340, 360, 640, 649
9x19mm/9mm Luger caliber: Model 940


Hammer Configuration:
Most of the differences have to do with exposed vs. shrouded vs. concealed hammers and the materials the frames (and sometimes cylinders) are made from.

Exposed hammer spur/"Chief's Special":
Models 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 43, 50, 51, 60, 63, 317, 331, 337, 351, 360, 431, 631, 637, 650, 651

Shrouded hammer spur/"Bodyguard" (anti-snag, but can still be cocked for single-action firing):
Models 38, 49, 638, 649

Concealed hammer/"Centennial" (double-action only, internal hammer):
Models 40, 42, 032, 042, 332, 340, 342, 432, 442, 460, 632, 640, 642, 940


Frame/Cylinder Material:
Most 2-digit model numbers are carbon steel-framed, and most 3-digit model numbers are stainless steel or alloy framed (some exceptions, of course).

Carbon Steel frame (blued or nickel-plated):
Models 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 40, 49, 50, 51

Stainless Steel frame:
Models 60, 63, 640, 649, 650, 651, 940

Aluminum Alloy frame w/ steel cylinder/"Airweight" (black anodized, nickel plated, or silver anodized):
Models 37, 38, 42, 43, 032, 042, 431, 432, 442, 460, 631, 632, 637, 638, 642

Aluminum Alloy frame w/ Scandium or Titanium cylinder/"Airlite"
Models 317, 331, 332, 337, 340, 342, 351, 360
(the 317 is a bit of an exception, with its frame, cylinder, and barrel shroud all made from aluminum alloy)


Model Number Lineage:
In many cases, the modern model number (3xx, 4xx, 6xx) is based on the historical model number, for example:
S&W Model 42 (black alloy "Centennial" frame, grip-safety, blued steel cylinder, concealed hammer, .38 Special)
S&W Model 042 (black alloy "Centennial" frame, no grip-safety, blued steel cylinder, concealed hammer, .38 Special)
S&W Model 342 (black alloy "Centennial" frame, no grip-safety, scandium cylinder, concealed hammer, .38 Special)
S&W Model 442 (black alloy "Centennial" frame, no grip-safety, blued steel cylinder, concealed hammer, .38 Special)
S&W Model 642 (silver alloy "Centennial" frame, no grip-safety, stainless steel cylinder, concealed hammer, .38 Special)

Same for the 37 (37, 337, 637) and 40 (40, 340, 640, 940).

Sometimes, the lineage goes from the blued to stainless to alloy models, as in the .38 Chief's Special:
S&W Model 36 -> S&W Model 60 -> S&W Model 360

And to further confuse things, some models were built both as .38 Special-only and .357 Magnum versions, usually with concurrent dash-numbers. For example, the Model 60: S&W Model 60 no-dash through -8 are .38 Special only. S&W Model 60-9, -10, -14, -15, and -18 are .357 Magnum, while S&W Model 60-11, -13, -16, and -17 are .38 Special.


Back when model numbers were first stamped on S&W revolvers (1957), Models 10-19 were K-frame guns, 20-29 were N-frame guns, and 30-38 were J-frame guns. Things changed with the Model 39 (9mm semi-automatic pistol, single-stack, double-action/single-action, slide-mounted safety), and model numbers were assigned as guns were developed:

40 (J-frame revolver, .38 Special)
41 (semi-auto pistol, .22LR)
42 (J-frame revolver, .38 Special)
43 (J-frame revolver, .22LR)
44 (semi-auto pistol, 9mm)
45 (K-frame revolver, .22LR)
46 (semi-auto pistol, .22LR)
47 (semi-auto pistol, 9mm)
48 (K-frame revolver, .22 Magnum)
49 (J-frame revolver, .38 Special)
50 (J-frame revolver, .38 Special)
51 (J-frame revolver, .22 Magnum)
52 (semi-auto pistol, .38 Special)
...you get the idea.

Then the Second Generation semi-auto pistols came along (4xx, 5xx, 6xx) along with the L-frame revolvers (2xx, 5xx, 6xx), stainless N-frame revolvers (6xx), and then the 3rd Gen semi-auto pistols (4xx, 9xx, 1xxx, 3xxx, 4xxx, 5xxx, 6xxx)...and then this explosion of J-frame revolvers (3xx, 4xx, 6xx). As you can tell, it's pretty confusing with the model numbers all running together.

I'm loving this thread, thank you guys! I've started looking at J frames for a pocket-carry gun and this is definitely helping me learn!!

 

[Abflyboy]

My first J-frame was a Model 360. I have wanted one for a very long time and it goes with me EVERYWHERE.

Now on the hunt for a 36 no dash and a model 60.

 

[buckeyejake]

Model 60. The great one !

Jake

 

[3rdRRU_PhuBai]

Test drive the:
640-1
642-1
and
60-10, 3 inch.
I did, and wound up with one of each.

 

[claudel]

I went through this a year or so ago

I wound up with a 649-3

I like steel and I don't mind a few extra ounces in the pocket.

I keep it loaded with BB low flash .38 and have a couple of strips with Corbon .357 DPX handy in the unlikely event of an escalation.

It needed better sights. Big Dot. Simpler than getting me better eyes...

I like the Galco Horsehide Pocket holster.

Fits the revolver perfectly and stays in the pocket.

Those Eagle grips are gone. Wonderful grips, but they didn't fit my hand right.

I'm still experimenting.

I have Thai ebony grips on it for now, but I'm still dialing that part in...

 

[JudgeColt]

The Model 642 seems to have the most votes, but the Model 638 also has its solid support. As between the two, the Model 638 gives the option of single action, and the size difference is so tiny as to be irrelevant. I recommend the Model 638.

 

[Vortec MAX]

My wife has a 638 and I have a 438. They are the same gun, but with different finishes. My wife has probably fired close to 1,000 rounds through hers and I bet I have fired close to 500 through mine. I was skeptical that the "airweight" frames could hold up to that kind of use, but they have and work even better than new (triggers and actions are smoother now). I have to say I am pretty impressed with these two pistols and would not hesitate to recommend them. I like the ability to use it in single action mode if I want to. It makes challenging shots more fun on range days.

Mike

 

[Model 27 Man]

I love J frames, N and K frames too. My first experience with a J frame was a Model 49, I wish I still had it. I have a 649-3 and 642-1 now. I haven't fired .357's in my 649, how wicked are they to shoot? I like the wood grips for carry, but the rubber grips would go back on if I were to shoot magnums. I think the 649-3 looks a little strange to me with the longer barrel, but better for accuracy. I'm thinking about a 317 now. I love snub nose revolvers, when I was a kid I sawed off the barrel of a cap gun.

 

[AZretired]

Without a doubt a 642-1

 

[S.Bergeron]

It'd be favorite carry gun, my 442. It's my little buddy and goes with me everywhere I go. It's also my favorite range gun. It's been modified so I can still shoot it with my peripheral neuropathy.

I am interested in what got modified to help with the peripheral neuropathy. My Father has that and it's terribly debilitating.

 

[Kaedan]

The first J that I bought was a mid 1980's production Model 60 1 7/8". Got it for a good deal at a Gander Mt. of all places, great basic no-frills carry gun, very small, very light, no need for an Airweight this thing was light enough in an IWB or OWB holster. My Dad admired it lots so I gave it to him when I got a .38 SP101. He later got an Airweight Bodyguard so maybe I'll ask for the 60 back

The 60 wasn't very fun to shoot even with standard .38, but it's not a range gun. Very handy for carry and definitely a "5 for sure" gun. I have a 4" 31-1 and love .32 Long, I am on the hunt for a mechanically solid, not so much cosmetically good 30 1 7/8" for carry.

Gonna agree with StanTheMan. And I'm borrowing someone elses pic (I love google)

 

[gwpercle]

Model 637, 38 special, Airweight.
I like the light weight and single and double action operation.
This should have been my first choice but I tried many others. The contention that a hammer gets snagged and you should only shoot double action is horse-hockey.
Gary

 

[mini14jac]

Question: have you rented and shot any yet?

What one person might recommend may be unpleasant for somebody else to shoot. So it depends on what you are used to shooting.

This.

Airweights are a dream to carry all day, but a bit of a handfull to shoot.
Last time out with my 642 I shot 20 or 25 rounds without a lot of pain, but I knew if I shot any more I'd probably have a blister.
Turns I did have a little callus there later.

Steel J frames are rare around here but if you can find one they are much more pleasant to shoot.

 

[Invictus357]

640 Pro. No question.

Stainless.

No Lock.

Tritium Sights.

 

[CoMF]

I can tell you what I -did- choose as my first J-frame: A M640 that had the "tested for +P+ stamp" inside the frame.

Then, when I learned to appreciate the value of having a visible hammer, I bought a Chief's Special and then a Magnum Bodyguard. The Bodyguard, however, has got to be the best "compromise" between having a hammer while still being snag-free.

The Centennial was sold long ago. I don't miss it. The latter two I still have and I'll never sell them.

 

[Frank V]

I went through this a year or so ago

I wound up with a 649-3

I like steel and I don't mind a few extra ounces in the pocket.

I keep it loaded with BB low flash .38 and have a couple of strips with Corbon .357 DPX handy in the unlikely event of an escalation.

It needed better sights. Big Dot. Simpler than getting me better eyes...

I like the Galco Horsehide Pocket holster.

Fits the revolver perfectly and stays in the pocket.

Those Eagle grips are gone. Wonderful grips, but they didn't fit my hand right.

I'm still experimenting.

I have Thai ebony grips on it for now, but I'm still dialing that part in...

This would be very near my choice too. It would have to have a hammer as I really enjoy shooting them past 20yds & would also have to be pre lock!
I like the older Js.