Like the title states. I'm curious as to how many people reload for their revolvers and use/don't use a chronograph. I have ventured into reloading for 38/357 for my two smith and Wesson revolvers. One being a modern 66-8 combat magnum and the other a 1982 15-4. Now I've been loading for rifle for a couple years and have a good understanding of pressure signs and just generally going off what the handbook has as far as load data and staying well off the ceiling for max loads. I'm not trying to push the limits of any of my firearms. I'm just happy to be able to make them go bang and do it accurate and precisely. The only issue I'm running in to that is making me second guess what I'm doing and possibly creating a need for a chronograph is the fact that all of the projectiles I have to load with are not necessarily ones that have manufacturers creating popular handbooks with loads of data. What I've been doing is taking multiple books I have, as well as online sources, and cobbling together what I feel is a safe load for my given components. Now I didn't mean for that to be too long and drawn out but I would love some input as to how necessary are chronograph is at this point or what kind of advise some of the more seasoned handloaders might have for safely loading for these pistol cartridges. Thank you in advanced.
Is a chronograph necessary?
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I seldom chonograph by handloads, but I use it more with my airguns and archery equipment. Generally I'm not that concerned about the velocity of my handloads, just the accuracy and safety. The targets tell me the accuracy and I rely on reputable sources for load data and check the fired cases for any signs of excessive pressure.
I absolutely use mine when developing new loads for my Semi's or Revolvers... it really gives me an idea of where my max and minimum should be...
" What I've been doing is taking multiple books I have, as well as online sources, and cobbling together what I feel is a safe load for my given components."
IMHO, you need a chronograph. Either you have a proven load from a reliable source, or you don't and you're guessing, which is too much risk for me. I've watched people work up revolver loads by "pressure signs" that found the first certain pressure sign was the topstrap hitting the ceiling...
I know people that never own a chronograph and do just fine because they only use proven loads that are not near max. They don't mix and match and guess.
IMHO, you need a chronograph. Either you have a proven load from a reliable source, or you don't and you're guessing, which is too much risk for me. I've watched people work up revolver loads by "pressure signs" that found the first certain pressure sign was the topstrap hitting the ceiling...
I know people that never own a chronograph and do just fine because they only use proven loads that are not near max. They don't mix and match and guess.
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mckenney99
Member
A chronograph is a very useful tool. You can get by without one, but you will never really know what your reloads are actually doing without chronographing them. I actually feel the chronograph is more necessary for development of rifle loads so you can work up much more accurate ballistic tables . If I had to do it all over again, I would save my money a little longer and invest in a LabRadar. I shoot on a club range and calling for a ceasefire long enough to get a regular down range chronograph set up and aligned does not make you very popular. I believe the LabRadar would make it much easier to shoot for groups at the same time as collecting your velocity figures a much easier exercise.
UncleEd
Member
The data published by such
reputable outfits as Speer generally
reflect the safest pressures for a
powder and bullet weight under
medium conditions.
The biggest mistake at rifle
ranges that I've seen is loaders
working up a combination during the
winter or cool months, seeing no
signs of pressure despite what the
loading books advise.
Then come summer and the ammo
gets heated up, pressures in the
cartridges rise upon firing and
the firearms are ruined.
reputable outfits as Speer generally
reflect the safest pressures for a
powder and bullet weight under
medium conditions.
The biggest mistake at rifle
ranges that I've seen is loaders
working up a combination during the
winter or cool months, seeing no
signs of pressure despite what the
loading books advise.
Then come summer and the ammo
gets heated up, pressures in the
cartridges rise upon firing and
the firearms are ruined.
deadin
US Veteran
I've always reloaded for accuracy not power. (In fact I've pretty much found that the "hot" loads are usually not the most accurate.)
I don't hunt, so knock down power isn't high on my list. For me a well placed shot is as good as, if not better, than a max load.
(Besides, I don't have to beat my gun and myself up practicing....
)
I don't hunt, so knock down power isn't high on my list. For me a well placed shot is as good as, if not better, than a max load.
(Besides, I don't have to beat my gun and myself up practicing....
)
I don't find a chrono that important with handgun ammo but with rifles it's a different thing. When calculating ballistics for long range shooting it's very difficult if you don't know the speed of the bullet.
I see what you are saying. I have found it hard to track down load data specific to the zero brand bullets I came into. So I used the low end of what the Speer manual had for their JSP that is the same shape and weight. Granted I say cobbled together. I'm not necessarily going in blind but also understand there can be slight dimensional differences. I tested 50 38 special loads between my 357 and 38 and everything seemed ok. But how do you really know unless your getting the velocity.
Not necessary but fun and enlightning......Oehler 35P since 1990.
__steve__
Member
Just glanced at the price for one, was highly surprised to see how low it was.
Will hopefully be venturing on this reloading process, if I actually end up manufacturing something to fire, it will be read by a chronograph, needed or not.
Will hopefully be venturing on this reloading process, if I actually end up manufacturing something to fire, it will be read by a chronograph, needed or not.
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I've been using a chronograph for about forty years. I consider it a little more important for rifle loads than handgun loads, but it's useful for both. You can get by without one and I did just that for the first fifteen years I handloaded, but it's good to know where your figures stand against book figures. Additionally, once you gain some experience, velocity figures can tell you something about pressures, too.
Chronographs have some features that most of us really don't need unless you're shooting at extreme distances. Don't get caught up in the extreme spread and standard deviation numbers game that's enjoying a fad popularity these days. Many try to obtain the smallest numbers possible, thinking such loads will produce the best accuracy. Sometimes true, but usually not. I don't pay attention to the numbers unless they are incredibly wild, and if they are, that load will usually be a poor one anyway. Concentrate on accuracy instead of ES and SD. You'll be way ahead.
Chronographs have some features that most of us really don't need unless you're shooting at extreme distances. Don't get caught up in the extreme spread and standard deviation numbers game that's enjoying a fad popularity these days. Many try to obtain the smallest numbers possible, thinking such loads will produce the best accuracy. Sometimes true, but usually not. I don't pay attention to the numbers unless they are incredibly wild, and if they are, that load will usually be a poor one anyway. Concentrate on accuracy instead of ES and SD. You'll be way ahead.
To me, it sounds like you're doing fine without it. Staying off max, matching bullet profiles where you have to wing it a bit. Lots of us have done it that way for a long time. For casual shooters, it's probably a nice thing to have but not critical.
That said, I think you are probably going to need one now that the bug has bitten you. You can never have too much information and what's another couple hundred bucks in this money-saving hobby?
Rock185
US Veteran
Model5, Absolutely, positively necessary, I guess not. But to answer your question, you don't really know velocities without a chronograph. I realize many shooters and reloaders could care less about actual velocities in their particular guns. But I have used a chronograph for many years, and wouldn't be without one. Within my humble experience, factory and reloaded ammo when chronographed, may vary considerably from published figures. Often when reloading, I'll be using a bullet, primer or case different from the ones used in this or that reloading manual. In that case, velocities are almost guaranteed to vary from those published. I don't load for rifles anymore, and though it may not matter much with the handgun ammo I shoot and reload now days, I still like to load ammo as consistent as possible. A chronograph lets me know of extreme velocity spreads, velocities higher or lower than expected, velocities in different firearms with same or different barrel lengths, etc.
Chronographs are so inexpensive now days, I'm surprised every serious shooter and reloader doesn't utilize one.
Chronographs are so inexpensive now days, I'm surprised every serious shooter and reloader doesn't utilize one.
Ackley1952
Member
Reloading without a chronograph will allow you to waste a lot of time and components chasing a load that just won't perform. It saves a lot of money in the long run .
Absolutely not necessary when plinking and shooting mid range loads inside 25 yards.
For making Minor or Major Power Factor, yup!
For maximizing accuracy using standard deviation shooting precision rifle beyond 200 yards, yup!
For verifying published data , yup!
Smiles,
For making Minor or Major Power Factor, yup!
For maximizing accuracy using standard deviation shooting precision rifle beyond 200 yards, yup!
For verifying published data , yup!
Smiles,
Qc Pistolero
Member
I say it is a ''nice to have'' but not a ''must''.If you are curious and like developping loads,it is nice to see at what speed your bullets are coming out.
So if your 150gr from a .308Win comes out at 3450fps,you'll know from the chrono.But you'll also when you find the bolt is hard to lift and the primer grew to half the size of the brass butt!
So if your 150gr from a .308Win comes out at 3450fps,you'll know from the chrono.But you'll also when you find the bolt is hard to lift and the primer grew to half the size of the brass butt!
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While you probably can get away with loading for target velocity rounds using the "check several good sources" method I still consider a chrono a good tool for developing really good target loads. The chrono is essential IMHO for heavy loads.
While it isn't common for bad loads to get into good loading manuals it does happen, abet rarely.
The basic chrono isn't expensive these days. I'd suggest putting one on your list.
For the advanced reloader a chrono is essential, as is a decent dial caliper and micrometer.
While it isn't common for bad loads to get into good loading manuals it does happen, abet rarely.
The basic chrono isn't expensive these days. I'd suggest putting one on your list.
For the advanced reloader a chrono is essential, as is a decent dial caliper and micrometer.
deadin
US Veteran
Isn't that where the fun is in the first place??
I don't think you need one for plinking ammo as long as you are not pushing near max loads. You can use the bullet weight, type of bullet and type of powder and stay safe checking a couple of sources for the load. That is my opinion anyway.
Rammer Jammer
Member
I'm curious what my loads are on a chronograph but not enough to spend the money on one.
I reload #1 for economy and #2 for accuracy. If I can make 'em safe, cheap and they're accurate that's all I care about
I reload #1 for economy and #2 for accuracy. If I can make 'em safe, cheap and they're accurate that's all I care about
BigBill
Absent Comrade
Never thought about getting a chrono.
When I first started reloading I didn't trust the data in the manuals. I want accuracy and power. I tested every load in clean wet sand to see what my reloads were actually doing. Every bullet showed a light grey powder infront of a piece of metal jacket shrapnel. My hunting bullets were preforming spot on. I reloaded 100 rds, tested 60 rds for reliability and accuracy, 40 rounds went bear hunting. The bear never knew what hit it. Proven at the range and backup up by performance in the field. Do I have faith in my reloads you bet.
I loaded 100 rds exactly the same. I tried all different powder loads looking for accuracy and power. I noticed by backing off the powerful loads the accuracy got better.
When I first started reloading I didn't trust the data in the manuals. I want accuracy and power. I tested every load in clean wet sand to see what my reloads were actually doing. Every bullet showed a light grey powder infront of a piece of metal jacket shrapnel. My hunting bullets were preforming spot on. I reloaded 100 rds, tested 60 rds for reliability and accuracy, 40 rounds went bear hunting. The bear never knew what hit it. Proven at the range and backup up by performance in the field. Do I have faith in my reloads you bet.
I loaded 100 rds exactly the same. I tried all different powder loads looking for accuracy and power. I noticed by backing off the powerful loads the accuracy got better.
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I have experienced this in reloading for a bolt action 5.56 trying to guess at a load to make a ragged hole. I was able to make one dime sized group at 100 yards and after repeating the load multiple times never repeated it. I came to the conclusion it was a fluke and moved on to shooting steel. Much more fun to me. Now I just load for the pleasure. And believe it or not I actually do save money. And with the current climate I Can actually shoot my 38 and 357 because I've got plenty of components to make more as needed.
when doing loads for a snub nose, a chronograph is the only way to find if there is a point where more powder doesn't equal more velocity......just blowing it out the barrel.
Along with what everyone else has said
Also lets you use the energy tables for a load when you actually know the velocity from your gun/barrel length
Along with what everyone else has said
Also lets you use the energy tables for a load when you actually know the velocity from your gun/barrel length
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I like to know where my reloads are performing and just how consistent they are. The only real way I know how to do that is with a Chronograph. They are pretty reasonable and so there really is little excuse not to get one.
I also like to test Factory "carry loads" just to make sure the lot in question is both consistent and performing up to spec.
I also like to test Factory "carry loads" just to make sure the lot in question is both consistent and performing up to spec.
For low to mid-range handgun ammo, no, you really do not need a chronograph. The chronograph is a tool useful when trying to duplicate a factory load, to determine at what point increased powder charges no longer give a significant increase in velocity, development of maximum velocity loads, and for competition ammo that requires meeting velocity and bullet weight requirements.
It's not just hot loads......
I load everything from sub minimal to max and even some experimentation with obscure loads that I can find data for. The chrony is VITAL to tell me what i need to know. I wish I had a pressure test setup.
I load everything from sub minimal to max and even some experimentation with obscure loads that I can find data for. The chrony is VITAL to tell me what i need to know. I wish I had a pressure test setup.
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