Is there a learning curve with revolvers?

"I have no trouble with fast DA shooting with a Colt New Service, a model whose DA trigger is the source of many complaints."

Haggis;

You're tough and that is all there is to it. I'm one who can't do effective work with a New Service much beyond 10 yards.
 
In the 70s,I grew up firing S&W and Colt revolvers single action for their accuracy. Then I fell under the spell of the 1911. Sleek, sexy, and so fast.... Now that I am a lot more mature, nothing gives me that warm fuzzy feeling like wrapping my hands around the graceful curve of the wooden grips of a good double action revolver. They are all like beautiful ladies, you have to take the time to really get to know them. Find out what kind of ammo they like, and make them something special, just for them. Get some speed loaders/moon clips and some snap caps so you can go fast without hurting them. Then it is all about spending time with them. My 625JM likes 200 grain plated SWCs, and 5.1 grains of W231 loaded out to 1.310 OAL with Wilson moon clips. Give her what she likes and she will put a big ol smile on your face, and keep you off of your knees picking up emptys.
 
bmcgilvray said:
Haggis;

You're tough and that is all there is to it.
Click to expand...
:o

Bryan,

Keep in mind that I'm talking 4"-6" at 10-15 yards, not 1" groups at 25 yards. If I take a 25 yard shot with a NS in USPSA, it's with a staged trigger or SA.

Buck
 
Nightowl said:
Now for a little difference of opinion. I use the first joint of my trigger finger and teach students to do it that way. I have seen other folks also advocate that. You have much more strength and control using the joint on the trigger in double action shooting. Jerry Miculak uses the pad, but he is very strong and has been doing it forever. Use a straight through smooth, stroke, front to back, without stopping and starting, not too show and not too fast. A lot of new shooters will find their sight picture, then slam the shot double action. Rather, refine the sight picture while pulling the trigger. Not separate steps, but rather one process. Follow through is very important. Do not anticipate the shot. Have fun. When you are dry firing, make sure that the sight picture is undisturbed all the way through the stroke of the trigger. Good luck. It really helps to have someone that know what they are doing watch your trigger pull.
Click to expand...

This is superb advice and something that I had to figure out on my own when I started shooting revolvers. It took me about 2 months of weekly range sessions to get proficient with the DA trigger on my first revolver but after that time I found that I'd also gained in accuracy with my semi automatics. To put it simply, yes there is a learning curve but it's well worth the effort because it will improve your ability with any gun you use.
 
If you can shoot a S&W well in DA, it will improve your shooting with any pistol. When I was an armed guard years back, all I had to train with was my Dad's 2.5" 66 and my 67-1. I wanted to shoot expert with the Glock 22 I used at work, but I didn't have my own Glock. I shot those S&W's in DA out to 25 yards.......and sure enough, I shot a perfect score the next time I qualified with that Glock.

I noticed most people who grew up with or shoot autoloading pistols exclusively will have a harder time with a DA revolver. People who are good with a DA revolver usually transition better to auto pistols. Single Action shooting is fine for plinking unless you're a Cowboy Action pistolero.......but I feel any real "training" with a DA revolver should be Double Action only. Save the thumb cocking for "fun time", it has no place for serious practice. Better yet, pick up one of those $250 DAO Model 64's so there's no SA action at all and thus no "crutch" to fall back on if you're having an off day. I used to find that when the shots weren't falling my way in DA shooting at the range, I would start thumb cocking that hammer and shooting SA trying to raise my confidence a little.....:)

Now I have the ULTIMATE "training" revolver, it's a Ruger Security Six with about 10 stages in the DA pull and the pull almost varies throughout the trigger stroke. I swear it even feels different on each chamber......if you can get good with THAT than you can shoot anything!:D

Better yet pick up a Nagant revolver, with it's 20+ lb. DA pull if you can shoot a group with that in DA then you're off to a good start.
 
I've been pulling DA triggers for six months. It sure made my hand stronger. When I first stroked my 642 I had to use the first joint of my finger. It's getting easier to use the pad but not yet easy, maybe never.
Yes, continuous pull all the way through is better IMHO. I learned from old hands on the forum. Thanks, guys.
 
There definitely was a learning curve for me. I had to learn where to put my finger on the trigger for maximum stability and control and how to hold the gun steady through the entire double action pull. The longer pull of a revolver trigger increases the likelihood of extraneous movement and scattered shots, it's that simple.

In my case I learned that I had maximum control by putting the trigger on the crease of my finger behind the first joint. I also discovered that there is such a thing as pulling too slowly. Keeping a moderate rate of pull that is consistent is my personal key to accuracy.

I practiced dry firing for hours. A good learning tool is to put a coin (a dime is ideal) flat on the top of the barrel just behind the front sight. See if you can pull the trigger six times without the dime falling off. If you can do that you know you're holding the gun steady.
 
there is a learning curve with everything. be patient with your self, practice and enjoy your new revolver.

if things dont seem to be going like you think they should, then come back here to the forum, explain it and there will be help.

good luck.
 
I discovered I cant take a revolver and an auto to the range as I tend to do well with the first one shot but things go downhill with whichever one is next in line. So, I take two autos or two revolvers at one time. That's not to say I can't shoot both, just not as well if mixed. There was definitely a transition for me as well from auto to revolver.
 
me 2

I just got a new 625PC .45acp, and haven't shot a Revo for 25yrs, and took it to a IDPA classifier, Never even shot it yet"",and on the 1st stage, bang.! "wheres the hole, Bang.! "come on.!, Bang."What.?.:mad:no hole...I was pulling the gun when i was shooting, and everyone behind me said the same thing..I was so many points down I just stood there and Laughed at my self, And by the way, Their is only 6 of the "brass looking things that go BANG in the cylinder.!..that was funny too...BANG.Click.!.:eek:.I did start gripping the gun tighter to try to stop from flinching and pulling the gun to the left..I was a little better on the next stage, aleast i hit the "Blinking".!! Cardboard...WHow..big change from a 1911, But I am going to Concure this Revo..Period.!
Thanks for Ya'll Hints.
 
You said:

"There's a set of shooting videos by Jerry Miculek on S&W's website that I highly recommend that will help you improve your revo shooting"

I'm interested but couldn't find these on the S&W website. Could you please post the link or provide it for me? I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks,

Oldgun
 
There's always some learning curve with any different handgun platform, especially if you want to be proficient. I know when my LEA went from revolvers to Glocks, it was 5 days of training and 1000 rounds.
 
I like the idea with the dime on the barrel. Many years ago someone had leave one chamber empty to see if I anticipated
recoil. Ummmmmm he was right, I did.:o
 
No one here yet has mentioned grips. When you hold your gun with the previously mention high grip, your knuckles should all be in a line. This is not possible with factory target stocks. They have too much flare at the bottom.

For my hands (average size for a guy 6' tall), the wooden Hogue monogrip is good but the best are the finger groove grips made by Jim Badger, a retired cop.

Custom Wood Pistol Grips & Handgun Grips, including Smith & Wesson, Colt and Ruger Pistol Grips from Badger Custom Grips

They lock my hand into a K, L, X, or N-frame like no other set of off-the-shelf grips ever have. (Haven't tried them on a J-frame)

Badger grips shown below in the round-to-square butt configuration. Rosewood laminate.

500Book.jpg


For CC work, Badger's boot grip is the best also. It covers the bottom of the frame just enough to have the perfect place for your pinky finger.
 
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Great advice...much needed in my case. Off to the shop to try the dime trick!!
Thanks guys.
-Paul
 
I suggest that anyone shifting from shooting automatics to revolvers (or revolvers to automatics) start off shooting a .22 LR. This allows the shooter to focus on the changes in grip, weight and trigger without adding the additional problem of recoil from a centerfire round. Practice using more powerful ammo as you improve and you may find that you become able to shoot both automatics and revolvers well.

I have two short exhibition videos of my shooting both a 1911 and a revolver on youtube. Search: BubbaBladesFLA or

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4l79JaoCXWw&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Mark
 
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BubbaBlades said:
I suggest that anyone shifting from shooting automatics to revolvers (or revolvers to automatics) start off shooting a .22 LR. This allows the shooter to focus on the changes in grip, weight and trigger without adding the additional problem of recoil from a centerfire round. Practice using more powerful ammo as you improve and you may find that you become able to shoot both automatics and revolvers well.
Click to expand...

Mark stole my thunder.

In my short time shooting, I have seen much improvement in my shooting skills and I attribute it to...

A) more range time with an assortment of moderate and comfortable loads.

B) Bigger, heavier guns to manage recoil and build hand/arm strength.

C) Longer site radius to build confidence.

A day at the range generally consists of a whole bunch of .22 from my 6 inch Model 17, stepping up in caliber to moderate .38 target loads in 4 inch K frames (now an L frame), down to my carry snubbie.

The practice has allowed me to feel more comfortable and has transitioned well right down to my snubnose.

If ya could have seen me a year ago with a snubnose... :eek:
 
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I didn't read the whole thread yet to see if this was brought up, but does a dyed in the wool revolver shooter, when he gets a hold of a 1911, think it's ridiculously easy to shoot? Or is there a learning curve going that direction as well?
 
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