The Doctor
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Is this Nickel or Hard Chromed
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It appears to be nickel, and obviously an after-market job. I'd trade an AK for it, of course, I can't stand AKs myself!
Looks like nickel to me, not factory. Smith factory nickel guns were shipped with case color hammer and trigger. Is the extractor nickeled too. Smith left the extractor blued.
bamabiker
Member
Looks like I'm the only one answering you but here goes. The HP looks to be pinned and recessed so it's probably a model 28-2 and probably belongs in the 1961 to 1980 section but that's OK. Most guys around here would bet their last dollar that it is not an original nickel finish. There is very few original HPs.
I bought a nickel HP a couple of years ago for $367.50 OTD and even though it's not original I love the gun. It was my first S&W after a long absence from them and it shoots like a lazer so I will not trade it for an AK or even an AR. That's just me, I'm weird like that.
How much do you figure your AK is worth?
Well you got some other answers while I was typeing.
I bought a nickel HP a couple of years ago for $367.50 OTD and even though it's not original I love the gun. It was my first S&W after a long absence from them and it shoots like a lazer so I will not trade it for an AK or even an AR. That's just me, I'm weird like that.
How much do you figure your AK is worth?
Well you got some other answers while I was typeing.
OP
The Doctor
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Ak for S&W
the AK is valued between 500 and 600 us dollars...
i had a .357 S&W jframe years ago...i miss it!!
the AK is valued between 500 and 600 us dollars...
i had a .357 S&W jframe years ago...i miss it!!
OP
The Doctor
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bamabiker
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OK, I'm not trying to tell you what to do but a refinished HP with non-original hammer and trigger and rubber grips is probably not worth the AK value to most guys around here. Some would not want to give $300 or $400 for it.
MHO.
MHO.
Stu1205
Member
That looks like nickel to me.
I have a 28-2 hard chrome which looks more like stainless steel.
I have a 28-2 hard chrome which looks more like stainless steel.
OP
The Doctor
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S&W highway Patrolman
Thank you to everyone who got back to me with feedback
Thank you to everyone who got back to me with feedback
Welcome to the forum The Doctor.
IMO 28s are only $500-$600 dollar revolvers if they are still all original and need to be NIB to be worth $600, unless there is something very unusual about one, like original factory nickel plating. I very seldom see any good condition N frames offered for less than $400, so that's a reasonable low figure for the altered 28 being offered to you. I do not know what your AK is worth other than what you posted, but it sounds like you'd come out behind in the trade.
Now lets jump to the question in your thread's title, is it nickel or chrome? I have a factory bright polished chromed CZ 75 and I couldn't say with certainty whether it was chrome or nickel without looking at the factory literature. The color of bright chrome is very similar to bright nickel. The frosted very thin and hard chrome plating like Armoly is famous for currently is the most common after market chrome applied to handguns but that was not always the case. Back when all cars had bright chromed bumpers most towns had chrome plating tanks for repairing automobiles. It was common for inexpensive firearms to get chrome plated in those automobile part plating tanks. In that time period 28s were very common and one of the lest expensive S&Ws. I'd look critically at that 28 and evaluate whether it got a quality nickel refinishing or a trip through the bumper plating tanks. I can't tell from your pictures. It could also have gotten a good quality after market bright chrome refinishing, but that's less likely than nickel or bumper chrome.
IMO 28s are only $500-$600 dollar revolvers if they are still all original and need to be NIB to be worth $600, unless there is something very unusual about one, like original factory nickel plating. I very seldom see any good condition N frames offered for less than $400, so that's a reasonable low figure for the altered 28 being offered to you. I do not know what your AK is worth other than what you posted, but it sounds like you'd come out behind in the trade.
Now lets jump to the question in your thread's title, is it nickel or chrome? I have a factory bright polished chromed CZ 75 and I couldn't say with certainty whether it was chrome or nickel without looking at the factory literature. The color of bright chrome is very similar to bright nickel. The frosted very thin and hard chrome plating like Armoly is famous for currently is the most common after market chrome applied to handguns but that was not always the case. Back when all cars had bright chromed bumpers most towns had chrome plating tanks for repairing automobiles. It was common for inexpensive firearms to get chrome plated in those automobile part plating tanks. In that time period 28s were very common and one of the lest expensive S&Ws. I'd look critically at that 28 and evaluate whether it got a quality nickel refinishing or a trip through the bumper plating tanks. I can't tell from your pictures. It could also have gotten a good quality after market bright chrome refinishing, but that's less likely than nickel or bumper chrome.
Sportsterguy
Member
I agree. EVERY house should have a semi in it for emergencies and fun plinking. The AK is one great rifle. Not as refined as an AR but will function when absolutely filthy, something an AR might not do. They're cheap to shoot, ammo is everywhere and is the best semi auto ever designed for wartime use. You can abuse the heck out of it and it'll still shoot when you pull the trigger. Won't feel bad if you bang it up either. I'd take a nice milled receiver AK over a tricked out AR any day if the **** ever hits the fan. They just keep chugging along and you don't need 90% of all of the **** folks are slapping on their AR's. It makes the KISS cut for me and thats what you need in a battle rifle. My brother carried one in Vietnam and hated the M-16 as they were jammomatics and still are when the crud gets into their actions. Also never know when they could be banned again making it a $1200.00+ rifle overnight. JMO
Save your money up, keep the AK then buy a decent unfinished 28 at a good price. There are some great deals on them out there.
Back to the original title question
Most will agree that nickel has a slight yellow tint, while chrome has a neutral tint.
One trick to determining the difference is to hold a piece of white paper up to the surface such that the paper is reflected in the surface. Compare the reflection (of the paper) to your direct view of the paper. They will be adjacent to each other. If the reflection appears slightly yellowish compared to the paper, it's nickel. If the reflection appears essentially the same shade as the paper, it's chrome.
If the finish is chrome, also examine recesses and inside corners. Note that the paper reflection approaching these areas reveals some yellow tinting. That's because these areas are low current density (during the plating process) and the chrome throws poorly into them, allowing the tint of the underlying nickel to show through. It can be minimized or eliminated with better anode placement in the plating bath. It just takes effort/time/work to do right.
There's a chemical test kit that will distinguish between plated finishes. It's made by Koslow, and expensive.
** Note -- the reason to use the paper reflection method, is that it negates the effect of the color of the light source used to observe the finish. You recognize white as white whether it is illuminated by a "warm" source or "cold" source -- making a yellow tint determination difficult without something to compare it to.
I hope this info helps.
Fred
Most will agree that nickel has a slight yellow tint, while chrome has a neutral tint.
One trick to determining the difference is to hold a piece of white paper up to the surface such that the paper is reflected in the surface. Compare the reflection (of the paper) to your direct view of the paper. They will be adjacent to each other. If the reflection appears slightly yellowish compared to the paper, it's nickel. If the reflection appears essentially the same shade as the paper, it's chrome.
If the finish is chrome, also examine recesses and inside corners. Note that the paper reflection approaching these areas reveals some yellow tinting. That's because these areas are low current density (during the plating process) and the chrome throws poorly into them, allowing the tint of the underlying nickel to show through. It can be minimized or eliminated with better anode placement in the plating bath. It just takes effort/time/work to do right.
There's a chemical test kit that will distinguish between plated finishes. It's made by Koslow, and expensive.
** Note -- the reason to use the paper reflection method, is that it negates the effect of the color of the light source used to observe the finish. You recognize white as white whether it is illuminated by a "warm" source or "cold" source -- making a yellow tint determination difficult without something to compare it to.
I hope this info helps.
Fred
I am not a fan of the AK but in this case I sure would not even consider trading yours for THAT particular Highway Patrolman ! Find a nice original HP !
Jerry
Jerry
Guessing your AK to be a WASR or SAR or possibly a Romy G with forearm replaced (at least the G kits I've seen have vertical fore grip).
WASR's are $400 range tops with SAR's and G kits (depending on receiver and who assembled it) going a little higher.
IMO, that HP, assuming mechanics are good, prolly falls in the WASR's range so it may be a good trade depending on what you're wanting. I think that every red-blooded American needs an AK, plus an AR and HP, etc., etc.
WASR's are $400 range tops with SAR's and G kits (depending on receiver and who assembled it) going a little higher.
IMO, that HP, assuming mechanics are good, prolly falls in the WASR's range so it may be a good trade depending on what you're wanting. I think that every red-blooded American needs an AK, plus an AR and HP, etc., etc.
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Smithhound
US Veteran
"Check out the big brain on FredP!"
Wow, that is the first time I've ever heard that one, I'm putting it in my bag O' tricks, thanks Fred.
As for that swap, keep the AK, save up a bit and get a good HP, they aren't that uncommon and as has been said a time or two, even in pristine condition can be found for less than $600.
AK's don't ring everyones bell, I understand that, but when TSHTF, which would you rather be armed with? I would prefer a respectable distance in that situation.
Keep checking the 'for sale' section, you'll find a much better HP sooner or later.
RD
Wow, that is the first time I've ever heard that one, I'm putting it in my bag O' tricks, thanks Fred.
As for that swap, keep the AK, save up a bit and get a good HP, they aren't that uncommon and as has been said a time or two, even in pristine condition can be found for less than $600.
AK's don't ring everyones bell, I understand that, but when TSHTF, which would you rather be armed with? I would prefer a respectable distance in that situation.
Keep checking the 'for sale' section, you'll find a much better HP sooner or later.
RD
As everyone else has suggested the revolver in question appears to have been refinished, just look at the hammer and trigger. Everyone has also given you excellent dollar and cents advice, but I'm going to play to emotion, make your decision on which weapon makes you feel better? Figure that out and then do what you gotta do.
williamlayton
Member
I have my own opinion of shooters.In my neck of the woods a 28-2 shooter in good mechanical condition goes for $5/600.
Who cares if it was reblued/renickled/hard chromed.
Your not paying for the Re's and it is protection--and it is a shooter.
I would do the deal---though I don't care for nickle.
Blessings
Who cares if it was reblued/renickled/hard chromed.
Your not paying for the Re's and it is protection--and it is a shooter.
I would do the deal---though I don't care for nickle.
Blessings
It depends on what your desires are and the size of your wallet. If you can afford both keep the AK and look for a $450 shooter Model 28-2 with a 4 inch barrel. The one you are looking at is refinished and therefore a shooter grade in the $400 to $450 price range. A year ago it would have been a $350 to $400 dollar price range but the Model 28-2 was under valued then and the people finally figured it out. The model 28-2 is really a model 27 without the top strap checkering and the high luster blue as other then that they are virtually the same gun. Funny the 4 inch model 27-2 is rare and expensive but in the 28-2 they are somewhat easy to find and they don't have that large of a premium over the 6 inch version.
I agree everyone needs a semi auto rifle that is mag fed and the mags should hold 20 rounds as a SHTF defensive weapon and in that role the AK is right up there as #1 because as others have said you could throw it in a water soaked hole for days and pull it out and it goes bang very time. I know because I have been shot at many times by them in Vietnam and we who were there will never say bad things about them.
Just my 2 cents worth as my SHTF rifle is a Ruger Mini 14 in 223 for whatever that is worth as I couldn't buy an AK because with my experience it was somehow evil in my mind.
I agree everyone needs a semi auto rifle that is mag fed and the mags should hold 20 rounds as a SHTF defensive weapon and in that role the AK is right up there as #1 because as others have said you could throw it in a water soaked hole for days and pull it out and it goes bang very time. I know because I have been shot at many times by them in Vietnam and we who were there will never say bad things about them.
Just my 2 cents worth as my SHTF rifle is a Ruger Mini 14 in 223 for whatever that is worth as I couldn't buy an AK because with my experience it was somehow evil in my mind.
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