J Frame Airweights

C/O

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I am looking to get a couple of new guns, one being a 617 the other a 442. My problem is, I spend to much time looking up items before buying. While looking up J frames I came across some posts about cracked frames and they make me nervous about buying one. Is this a frequent issue or is it just a case of a few bad ones that spread over the web?

I have a Ruger SP101, but really want a 442 for pocket carry. I have read post after post of people using J frames for CCW, and can't see them being as popular as they are if they were so prone to cracking.

My plans are to shoot it a little (with +P carry ammo), and carry it alot. I have others for range toys.

What is your personal experience with J Frames Airweights?
 
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The next one I buy may crack, but I've owned, carried, and shot them for years, and have NEVER had one to fail, cracked or otherwise. The only problem I had with a j frame anything was a 940 that suffered from hard extraction of fired cases, a common problem with these easily fixed by properly reaming the chambers to get those 9mm cases out. I say buy one in your favorite style and caliber; you're going to be glad you did.
 
638-3 Owner

I love my little J-frame. After swapping out the factory rubbers for the Talo exclusive wood grips I found it to be a reliable shooter and a great pocket carry.
Even with the -3's extended barrel it is easily concealed and dependable enough to outshoot my brother's XD45 most days of the week.
It's an easy clean and I have yet to find any malfunctions after 500 rounds.
 
If you buy a new in box J-frame, you will have an outstanding firearm backed up by a lifetime warranty. I highly doubt you will have an issue with it, but if you ever do S&W will pay to have it shipped both ways to get fixed. Really can't ask for more than that. I own a 642 no lock, and it's in my pocket every day for CCW. Not a single problem in hundreds of rounds and lots of carry.
 
Thanks for the replies,

One more question: I like to practice with what I shoot, will shooting exclusively 38+P hurt a 442?
 
IIRC, the frame cracking issue generally stems from barrels being over-torqued during assembly. It might be a good idea to bring a light and small magnifying glass to check for it when inspecting a gun, but if it doesn't have the crack when you buy it I doubt it will develop one, particularly as you say you plan to "shoot a little, carry a lot."

Extensive +P shooting will probably hurt your hand more than the gun. What I do is shoot mostly standard pressure loads for practice then periodically shoot a few cylinder-fulls of +P. Again, given your "shoot a little, carry a lot" approach +P shouldn't be an issue.

Snubs do require quite a bit of practice to become proficient with them, but dry-firing can go a long way to help supplement your live-fire practice, as well as help smooth the trigger pull.
 
I carry a 442-1. I bought in April and have put quite a few rounds through it. So far, I've had no trouble out of it. Rated for +P and that is what I shoot and carry.
 
IIRC, the frame cracking issue generally stems from barrels being over-torqued during assembly. It might be a good idea to bring a light and small magnifying glass to check for it when inspecting a gun, but if it doesn't have the crack when you buy it I doubt it will develop one, particularly as you say you plan to "shoot a little, carry a lot."

Extensive +P shooting will probably hurt your hand more than the gun. What I do is shoot mostly standard pressure loads for practice then periodically shoot a few cylinder-fulls of +P. Again, given your "shoot a little, carry a lot" approach +P shouldn't be an issue.

Snubs do require quite a bit of practice to become proficient with them, but dry-firing can go a long way to help supplement your live-fire practice, as well as help smooth the trigger pull.

The point about assembly I would have never guessed. But yeah, keep that dime on top of the frame and dry fire to your hearts content. I still haven't gotten it to stay in place for more than a few pulls with my 442. Maybe I should switch to a penny and see if that's better?
 
I dry fired my 642 no lock about 500 times, shot 100 rounds then popped the side plate and properly lubed the innards. Made a big difference in trigger feel, as the gun was bone dry from the factory.

I'm no super marksman with any DAO wheelgun, but at 7 yards I can keep all the shots in the vitals which is what counts in a lightweight, deep concealment gun. In my ideal scenario I'd be able to carry my 22-4 .45 ACP revolver or a full size 1911, but the clothes I wear/places I frequent require a small gun well hidden. The 642 (442) fits the situation better than any other revolver and is more reliable than the pocket .380's and 9MM's.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I am feeling more confident about getting the 442. It will fit my need for a pocket sized gun for when my SP101 or 686 is not feasible.

I know there are smaller semi autos available, but I just feel more confident with revolvers. I love the simplicity and reliability of a good wheel gun.
 
Like it was said, especially if you have large hands, just swap the factory grips for combat wood or rubber ones and the 442/642 is great. Getting some Uncle Mikes for my 642, which now is wearing factory diamond magnas.
 
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