J-frame carrying questions
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Bikemobile
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I like the 442 in the pocket because its backstrap is black. Hides well. Mine rubbed some of the black finish off in my desantis ankle holster.
If i were to buy again i would look for a 638 or 438. They are funny looking but you can shoot them DA or SA with the low profile hammer.
Ive never had good luck shooting my 442 beyond 15 yards. It is the ultimate "get off me gun."
If i were to buy again i would look for a 638 or 438. They are funny looking but you can shoot them DA or SA with the low profile hammer.
Ive never had good luck shooting my 442 beyond 15 yards. It is the ultimate "get off me gun."
I agree with using a laser as a trigger pull training aid. However, I liked the Pachmayr compact grips on my 442, so I installed a Laserlyte side mount laser. That way I can keep the grips I like and have a laser. Since I don't rely on the laser for aiming, having the actuation button in a little more of a inconvenient position isn't a factor. It is fun putting a hole where the red dot glows at the range.
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I would get the 642 because it is probably more resistant to corrosion. Carry in a pocket holster and use +P ammo for carry and occasional familiarization. Do all other practice with whatever standard 38 Special ammo you can find.
Get a good quality pocket holster, such as the one from Elite Survival Systems:
Elite Pocket Holsters: EliteSurvival.com
Or, if you want more versatility, get the Elite clip on holster, and then you can use it as IWB with the clip or take the clip off and use it as a pocket holster:
Inside The Waistband Clip Holster : IWB Holsters : EliteSurvival.com
Don't forget a speed loader such as the HKS or Safariland.
OP
PA Guns & Ammo
Member
I know the Crimson Trace grips are not cheap. Does this one bolt to the side cover and how much do they go for? I like the Pach grips as well.
James
Well, you won't get any argument from me about the Pachmayr Compac grips. IMHO they're the best compromise out there between shooting comfort and concealability. That's what I'd be likely to carry daily if I didn't love the laser and the instant-on switch of the CT design. Much as I love Magnas with one of my BK grip adapters (shameless plug) I find I just shoot better with more comfortable grips.
I've only handled the CT 305 grips on store displays, but the last time I grabbed one it sure felt good. It sort of reminded me of the Compacs, although not quite as deep front to back. But the same cushy backstrap and room for the pinky finger. I am being SORELY tempted - if I see 'em on sale I'll probably have to get a set.
It does bolt to the side plate with the included hardware. Just be sure to read the instructions concerning zeroing in the laser. They're on sale at Midway this month.
LaserLyte Side-Mount Laser Sight S&W J Frame Taurus (All Revolvers)
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photoman
Member
The Model 642 is what I recommend.
1. Get some grips that fit your hand well.
2. Buy a bunch of practice ammo (not +P!)
3. Dry fire the gun a lot!
I would encourage you to shoot the gun a bunch before spending big money on laser grips. You might want to consider either having S&W do an action job on the gun or, if you are mechanically inclined, installing the Apex spring kit.
1. Get some grips that fit your hand well.
2. Buy a bunch of practice ammo (not +P!)
3. Dry fire the gun a lot!
I would encourage you to shoot the gun a bunch before spending big money on laser grips. You might want to consider either having S&W do an action job on the gun or, if you are mechanically inclined, installing the Apex spring kit.
palmettosunshine
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Another vote here for the 638. I started with a Ruger LCP and it was great for hiding in my pocket. Shooting, not so much. No matter how I held it the trigger guard hit my finger everytime I fired it. After 1 mag I was done for that range trip. Since I didn't like shooting it, I didn't practice with it and since I didn't practice with it I couldn't expect to get very good with it. Therefore a change was in order. Went to the LCR. Fired exactly ONE cylinder and traded it the same day. Just wasn't for me. Next up was the Scandium framed M&P 340. Loved the weight, loved the XS big dot sight, couldn't hit squat with it. Went to the 638 and what a difference. I know it's only slightly heavier than the 340, has cruder sights, is uglier than me in the morning, yet shoots like a dream for me. I can actually hit what I'm aiming at, enjoy shooting it at the range and the difference in price bought a LOT of primers and powder. I wouldn't trade mine for anything. In a front pocket it's a joy to carry and no one has ever made me with it, even in my everyday slacks and sportcoat or suits.
Jframe over LCP
I have a 360 and the keltec P3AT identical to the LCP. I had the same idea you did. I found the 360 used for close to what a new airweight cost and have the option to shoot 357 mag. It is no fun to shoot +P and 357 mag feels like you caught a baseball bare handed. With the exception of the trigger finger slap from the 380 it is much easier to shoot and carry in the pocket. I personally think there is a marginal gain in 38 over 380 in a short barrel. Get some good ammo and learn to shoot the 380 accurately or get a Kahr in 9mm. Buffalo Bore makes some hot 380 as well. I will say the 360 is very solid and tight. I get no blow back of particles and the shells eject nicely. Actually surprised me how such a light weight gun can take that abuse. The revolver does offer a reliability advantage when exposed to dirt and lint like when carried in the pocket. I carry the Keltec or my NAA 22mag in deep cover, the 360 when I feel the need for more firepower or when I have large pockets. If I IWB carry I use the G27 with a spare G22 mag
I have a 360 and the keltec P3AT identical to the LCP. I had the same idea you did. I found the 360 used for close to what a new airweight cost and have the option to shoot 357 mag. It is no fun to shoot +P and 357 mag feels like you caught a baseball bare handed. With the exception of the trigger finger slap from the 380 it is much easier to shoot and carry in the pocket. I personally think there is a marginal gain in 38 over 380 in a short barrel. Get some good ammo and learn to shoot the 380 accurately or get a Kahr in 9mm. Buffalo Bore makes some hot 380 as well. I will say the 360 is very solid and tight. I get no blow back of particles and the shells eject nicely. Actually surprised me how such a light weight gun can take that abuse. The revolver does offer a reliability advantage when exposed to dirt and lint like when carried in the pocket. I carry the Keltec or my NAA 22mag in deep cover, the 360 when I feel the need for more firepower or when I have large pockets. If I IWB carry I use the G27 with a spare G22 mag
ginzo
Member
After much debate, I ordered a 638!
Haven't seen it yet.......
My decision came from a thread here similar to this one, great stuff!!
Haven't seen it yet.......
My decision came from a thread here similar to this one, great stuff!!
attn ginzo
Knowledgeable and discerning individuals go with the 638. Great choice! It is my go-to for casino visits.
Kaaskop49
J-hound extraordinaire
Knowledgeable and discerning individuals go with the 638. Great choice! It is my go-to for casino visits.
Kaaskop49
J-hound extraordinaire
I really like my 340sc with either 125gr medium velocity .357 or 135gr .38+P gold dots. It is very light and does not sag in my pocket. I also have a 442 that is a great gun but just a tad heavier. They would both serve me well and are sometimes carried together depending on where I'm going. Of course in the winter with extra clothing a .45 or 9mm work well too. The J-Frame is the ultimate deep concealment piece in the warmer weather. IMHO
Realgunner
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642, pocket carry is the way to go. As others have stated, the slightly lighter weight of a Scandium gun is not worth the much greater price. No need for 357 chambering. $400 is a very good price on a 642 these days; shop around.
I'd get a 642 as the scandium guns are way too much money just to gain the ability to shoot .357 magnum which hardly anyone does. I had a 340 M&P and it was so expensive that I was completely OCD about the finish getting scratched etc., plus I hated the night sight which only added to the price.
I also would insist on getting on without the internal lock. I've read about way too many incidents of spontaneous locking/lock failure, especially with the small light guns. The lock is especially silly on the Centennial frames since the locked flag/tab can't even pop up/be visible when locked.
Irregardless, I would not get one with an exposed hammer(chiefs) or even shrouded hammer(bodyguard) as it will serve no purpose and actually could hinder you. Get something with a fully enclosed hammer(centennial) like the 642/442. Here's why...
1. Snubs are close quarter personal defense weapons, not hostage stand-off sniper rifles or competition target guns so there is no need to cock it for a precise shot. Plus cocking a revolver in a crisis situation is flat out irresponsible and dangerous(accidental discharges) when your nervous, scared and adrenaline charged as you would be in a real defense situation. Plus No exposed hammer removes any prosecutorial accusations that you intentionally cocked the weapon creating a hair trigger. It's just overall safer and less to worry about, especially if you pocket carry.
2. You can take a higher grasp on the Centennials compared to the other S&W J models effectively lowering the bore axis giving you more control and grip options.
3. The Centennial line has a smoother trigger pull in double action than the other Smiths J's do.
4. You can effectively fire from inside a jacket pocket or if the gun was otherwise entangled in clothing with an enclosed hammer and it is also more reliable is someone is trying to grab it and disarm you, whereas an exposed hammer would get snagged and jammed. A real possibility if a self-defense scenarios was close quarters and involved grappling.
5. For pocket carry, the enclosed hammer prevents lint and other debris from getting into the action.
I also would insist on getting on without the internal lock. I've read about way too many incidents of spontaneous locking/lock failure, especially with the small light guns. The lock is especially silly on the Centennial frames since the locked flag/tab can't even pop up/be visible when locked.
Irregardless, I would not get one with an exposed hammer(chiefs) or even shrouded hammer(bodyguard) as it will serve no purpose and actually could hinder you. Get something with a fully enclosed hammer(centennial) like the 642/442. Here's why...
1. Snubs are close quarter personal defense weapons, not hostage stand-off sniper rifles or competition target guns so there is no need to cock it for a precise shot. Plus cocking a revolver in a crisis situation is flat out irresponsible and dangerous(accidental discharges) when your nervous, scared and adrenaline charged as you would be in a real defense situation. Plus No exposed hammer removes any prosecutorial accusations that you intentionally cocked the weapon creating a hair trigger. It's just overall safer and less to worry about, especially if you pocket carry.
2. You can take a higher grasp on the Centennials compared to the other S&W J models effectively lowering the bore axis giving you more control and grip options.
3. The Centennial line has a smoother trigger pull in double action than the other Smiths J's do.
4. You can effectively fire from inside a jacket pocket or if the gun was otherwise entangled in clothing with an enclosed hammer and it is also more reliable is someone is trying to grab it and disarm you, whereas an exposed hammer would get snagged and jammed. A real possibility if a self-defense scenarios was close quarters and involved grappling.
5. For pocket carry, the enclosed hammer prevents lint and other debris from getting into the action.
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ginzo
Member
My 1st wheel gun!! Adding to a M&P .40 FS and a .40c, for just those certain occasions..........
ginzo
Member
That looks like it!!!
gwpercle
Member
Model 637 Airweight with the matt silver finish in 38 special and 2 inch bbl. has been working well for me since 2005. I carry as you propose to do and finish is holding up well. It does show some wear along the edges but it's been carried for 8 years now. Tried all sorts of semi-auto's , they were all problematic in one way or another....J-frame in 38 spcl. has come to the top as best for me. Carries easily and is shootable, best of all , reliability can not be bettered.
Gary
Gary
