J-Frame Hands: 2-pin vs 3-pin
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That's known as the floating hand but it wasn't a big enough change to warrant a new dash # or be listed in the SCSW book.
So the best I can do is estimate from my memory. I would say in the early 1980s. The Mod 34 was discontinued by 1991.
So the best I can do is estimate from my memory. I would say in the early 1980s. The Mod 34 was discontinued by 1991.
I couldn't find a specific time for the 3rd pin "add on". I'm sure this was considered an upgrade to the original two pin design. I'm guessing it was added when the j-frame was re-fit to accommodate +P and .357 magnum loads.
The added 3rd, "upper" pin intrudes into the space between the front of the bolt and the frame when the cylinder is closed, and the revolver is fully cocked (trigger back). This, in turn, prevents heavy recoil from disturbing the bolt's position fully rearward.
Both the 2 and 3 pin modern era hands are identical in terms of design. The "third pin" hand sometimes requires minor fitting, particularly when retrofitting to an older gun, to allow clearance for the pin to pass in front of the bolt, just below the centerpin hole inside the frame.
Carter
Examples of the two and three pin hands:
The added 3rd, "upper" pin intrudes into the space between the front of the bolt and the frame when the cylinder is closed, and the revolver is fully cocked (trigger back). This, in turn, prevents heavy recoil from disturbing the bolt's position fully rearward.
Both the 2 and 3 pin modern era hands are identical in terms of design. The "third pin" hand sometimes requires minor fitting, particularly when retrofitting to an older gun, to allow clearance for the pin to pass in front of the bolt, just below the centerpin hole inside the frame.
Carter
Examples of the two and three pin hands:
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With retrofitting a 3-pin new hand to an older gun, where is the fitting generally needed? I received a new 3-pin, but I do have a couple vintage trigger/2-hand assemblies coming in for a early 1970s J-frame that isn't quite carrying up later this week
The trigger isn't resetting and sticking unless pressure is used to force reset. The new hand does fix the carry up though.
With the mainspring and hammer removed, cylinder closed, carefully cycle the action using the trigger while observing the "back side" of the 3rd pin as it enters the area just in front of the bolt's front leg. This is where the interference is, as the hand moves upward.
You can apply a bit of Dykem or Sharpie on the pit itself, them when you cycle the trigger/hand the contact point on the third pin should be evident, due to the contact point showing on the pin.
If the interference is evident on the pin and is very small, you can dress the contact area with a stone or small file, then re-try for fit.
If more clearance is needed, the pin can be left unmodified, and material can be removed from the back side of the bolt's front leg. I've attached a photo of a new production leg to show where the cutaway is made, to accommodate the movement of the pin as it passes in front of the bolt. The angle doesn't have to be "exact". Just enough removed to make space for the pin.
Careful not to get too close to the pin in the bolt shoulder, while making your clearance cuts at the base.
As you can see in the photo, very little clearance is needed.
It would be better to relieve the bolt shoulder to replicate the small angle like the bolt in the photo, rather than removing material from the hand pin, IMO. A bit more labor perhaps, but better than removing too much from the hammer pin itself.
Photos of relieved material on bolt to accommodate the passage of the pin.
If you need additional help or photos, let me know.
Carter
You can apply a bit of Dykem or Sharpie on the pit itself, them when you cycle the trigger/hand the contact point on the third pin should be evident, due to the contact point showing on the pin.
If the interference is evident on the pin and is very small, you can dress the contact area with a stone or small file, then re-try for fit.
If more clearance is needed, the pin can be left unmodified, and material can be removed from the back side of the bolt's front leg. I've attached a photo of a new production leg to show where the cutaway is made, to accommodate the movement of the pin as it passes in front of the bolt. The angle doesn't have to be "exact". Just enough removed to make space for the pin.
Careful not to get too close to the pin in the bolt shoulder, while making your clearance cuts at the base.
As you can see in the photo, very little clearance is needed.
It would be better to relieve the bolt shoulder to replicate the small angle like the bolt in the photo, rather than removing material from the hand pin, IMO. A bit more labor perhaps, but better than removing too much from the hammer pin itself.
Photos of relieved material on bolt to accommodate the passage of the pin.
If you need additional help or photos, let me know.
Carter
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So my relief cut ended up being a full cutout to clear the 3rd pin. 
It fixed most of the problems. The revolver now fully carries up, but still has a slight reset issue. The trigger will stick in the rearward position maybe every 5-10 dry-fires (with snapcaps). It can sometimes be released by pulling it hard. It will always release if I push the trigger forward or push the cylinder release forward.
The replacement triggers/2-pin hand assemblies, along with a vintage replacement bolt will be here by Friday.
It fixed most of the problems. The revolver now fully carries up, but still has a slight reset issue. The trigger will stick in the rearward position maybe every 5-10 dry-fires (with snapcaps). It can sometimes be released by pulling it hard. It will always release if I push the trigger forward or push the cylinder release forward.
The replacement triggers/2-pin hand assemblies, along with a vintage replacement bolt will be here by Friday.
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Could the hand be binding in the hand slot in the breechface? Or on the ratchets perhaps? Pretty common problem after a hand swap.
Does it cycle normally with the hammer removed?
Does it cycle normally with the hammer removed?
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I believe the new hand is slightly binding in the window as there is a clear black mark from rubbing. I don't think it is the ratchets.
One of the vintage J-frame trigger assemblies with 2-pin hand came in today. Installing it gave no binding and perfect carry-up in SA. DA seems to carry-up correctly, but not quite as aggressive compare to SA.
The other vintage hand w/ 2-pin comes in tomorrow. I'll install that as well for an update. I'm leery about filing the hand window for the 3-pin hand since this 2-pin seems to be good.
ETA: A new (old) 2-pin hand fixed carry up.
One of the vintage J-frame trigger assemblies with 2-pin hand came in today. Installing it gave no binding and perfect carry-up in SA. DA seems to carry-up correctly, but not quite as aggressive compare to SA.
The other vintage hand w/ 2-pin comes in tomorrow. I'll install that as well for an update. I'm leery about filing the hand window for the 3-pin hand since this 2-pin seems to be good.
ETA: A new (old) 2-pin hand fixed carry up.
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