J frame not fun

oldnfat

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I finally acquired enough ammo to go to the range. My first trip this year. Fired a couple of hundred rounds thru my DW Guardian .45. Shot pretty good, surprised myself. Then I fired 15 or 20 shots with the .38sp AirWeight. Couldn't hit anything. Target was at 10 to 12 feet. I realize the gun is a close-in weapon, and I do pocket carry it quite a bit. Recommendations for better results or another snubbie maybe? Am I expecting too much? Laser grips didn't seem to help, and it does have an Apex trigger kit installed.
 
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Try some 158gr ammo. Check the ammo in the gun if using lead bullets though. Some of them jump crimp during recoil. All steel J's don't tend to do this but the aluminum frame J's are known for it.
 
+ 1 on Andy's comments. DA revolvers are incredibly reliable but take practice. I recently bought one of the Aussie 10-8s Buds had for sale. It came with magna grips. All my shots with the magnas went to the left. I changed the grips to no-name target style grips I picked up for $10 and now everything is in the 10 ring at 10 yards DA.

Also, I suggest turning off the laser and using the sights SA while dry - firing. Watch where your front sight ends up. It shouldn't move. Then dry fire DA. Again the front sight should not move, but probably will. Get some snap caps and practice. I dry fire DA 25-50 times a day very deliberately to build muscle memory. This is one case where a little each day beats a lot occasionally by substantial margin.
 
The OP mentions finally getting some ammo together to go shooting, indicating a lag between range sessions. I shot very poorly my first session after a 5 month layoff. Even went back to a .22 to 're-calibrate' my DA skills. It worked.

Don't know how well the OP normally shoots, but a certified instructor could help. Something as small as not following through on the DA trigger can throw shots off. And the laser dot sights do not guarantee good groups. The shooter must use proper technique to do that.

J-frames are great little guns, but they require some work to use them effectively. And try the bigger grip suggested by another poster.

Kaaskop49
J-hound extraordinaire
 
I found I had to use a different hold, more high up than I normally use, to get the gun to print on paper and not high right (am LH). Also did better using the knuckle joint as opposed to the finger pad with the trigger pull. You might need to alter something in that regard
 
The limited sight radius and generally heavy recoil associated with the J frames will always make shooting them a humbling experience. Personally I would practice with whatever grip you intend to carry it with. Full sized grips are great but sort of defeat the purpose of having a small compact gun. As others have suggested dry firing practice and the lightest recoiling 38sp ammo you can find will help.
 
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First, make sure the gun fits your hand. Find a set of grips that accomplishes that. Second, J frames can be very ammo sensitive. For me, 158 grain bullets shoot to point of aim, and 130 grain bullets shoot drastically low. Third, pay really close attention to marksmanship fundamentals. Small errors are greatly magnified by the short barrel and small size of the gun. One thing I have found with J frames is that if I use the highest hold possible, my trigger finger enters the trigger guard at a downward angle, which makes a straight back trigger press difficult. Accuracy improves for me if I grip the gun so that my trigger finger enters the trigger guard level, which necessitates a bit lower hold on the gun. The specific mechanics of what will work will vary depending on the person and how the gun fits your hand, but experiment until you find what works. If you pay attention to the fundamentals and work out a proper grip, stance, sight picture, trigger pull, pay attention to your breathing, and focus intensely on the front sight, if your ammo shoots to poa with your gun, you'll work it out.
 
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Watch where your front sight ends up. It shouldn't move. Then dry fire DA. Again the front sight should not move, but probably will....I dry fire DA 25-50 times a day very deliberately to build muscle memory. This is one case where a little each day beats a lot occasionally by substantial margin.

In sports we call this "follow through" and is vitally important in shooting pistols, especially when shooting double action or some pistol that has control challenges. We can, and should, check to see where our sights align when live firing. But it is most instructive when dry firing.
 
Don't blame the gun! First time to the range this year, and it's September? Now, do we really have to tell you what's wrong?
 
The J frames shoot fine out of a rest. What I mean is that they are intrinsically accurate.

That said, they are considerably more difficult to shoot than a pocket 9mm, such as the Shield. The Shield absorbs recoil better, holds more rounds and is, in my opinion, easier to shoot.

The only solution is more practice. A "trigger job," as will undoubtedly be suggested by well meaning folks, will make reliable ignition less reliable and will not change the outcome enough to make taking a chance with reliability worth the risk.

Either get feeble ammo, such as target wadcutter; or, get a different pocket pistol - one that absorbs recoil during operation with slide motion and a recoil spring.

When the revolver hurts to shoot and has a heavy trigger, it makes for bad shooting.
 
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I just got back from a 150 round range session w/my 442. When I'm going to shoot that much the grips are changed from the small wood magnas w/a grip adapter to large rubber targets. I practice from 3, 5 & 7 yds holding at the 6 o'clock position. The further away the target the slower my cadence. With the exception of a few flyers as I got tired all my shots were in the black (standard bulls eye target). Near the end I replaced the magnas and grip adapter and ran 10 rounds of +P at 3 yds. rapid fire (this is how I carry).

My hand is sore but my confidence is up. Keep up the practice, these are great little carry guns but require frequent practice.
 
J frames are 'expert's' revolvers. They are inherently accurate but require lots of practice.

If you have a laser sight, get rid of it. You're looking at the wrong thing.

Front sight, front sight, front sight.

Lots of dry fire: ninety dry fire rounds for every one live fire.

Use 148 gr WC or 158 gr standard velocity ammo.

Forget the 'gee whiz' stuff! Balistic tables and pretty pictures of nalistic gel are fun to look at while on the 'throne'. Leave them there.

Aside from much more noise, muzzle blast and recoil, you get little except the gratitude of the ammo manufacturers. Unless you're independently wealthy or have a federal grant, you aren't likely to shoot enough of it to reliably hit things.

Hitting what you shoot at is what counts. Missing with 100 more fps won't help.
 
I have only been to the range twice since I got my 340pd. First time I fired 38s and was very happy. Then I fired 14 rnds gold dot 357 mag. That was more than enough and my shots were high and to the right. So I carry with 38s now. I just received my xs standard dot and will be installing it this weekend. I guess my point is get some really low recoil ammo like the 125gr 38s that I used and give it a try. I think you will like it. I would rather carry with something that I can hit with even if it isn't as powerful.
 
The first time I shot mdl Mdl.36 I had no idea what to expect.
I am not that good of a shot,as I practice very little but I do know the fundamentals.
I had it loaded with standard 38cal Round nose lead.
I line up at a target 15 feet away and nailed it dead on all 5 times???
I then moved it out to 24 feet and I continued to hit in the black for all 50 rounds in that box, all shots were fired single action with the exception of the last 10 rounds. those rounds fired DA were on the paper but slightly high and to the right still in the black but forming there own group.

The Mdl.36 with 2 in barrel shot as well that day as my pre Mdl. 10 with a 6 in barrel and that gun is a tack driver.

I learned over the years if you expect too much, have had too much coffee, are tired or the range is loud and busy that all these things can affect my shooting ability and often do.

However I find its always better to blame the gun.
 
Some great, not to be overlooked remarks:

That said, they are considerably more difficult to shoot than a pocket 9mm, such as the Shield. The Shield absorbs recoil better, holds more rounds and is, in my opinion, easier to shoot.

I have never fired a Shield but I can shoot circles around my Kel-Tec pocket 9mm with any J-frame I own. I can probably pass the Texas CHL test with any J-frame I own, too.

However I find its always better to blame the gun.

Exactly!!!! What can the gun say back?

J frames are 'expert's' revolvers. They are inherently accurate but require lots of practice.

I don't know that they're "expert's revolvers" but they do require getting used to. There is one secondary issue to consider - even with plain .38 caliber ammunition - J-frames are supposed to be carried a lot but not necessarily fired a lot. You do need to learn how to use one, how to aim it, how to deal with it's recoil. But you don't need to shoot hundreds of rounds to do that and you certainly don't want to abuse your hands by shooting hundreds of rounds in one session.

Follow-up matter - If you're not used to shooting fixed sight revolvers like J-frames you can easily make mistakes in determining how and where to line up that front sight in the "hog wallow trough" that is called the rear sight. Adjusting that over the course of a few cylinders-full will teach you a great deal about where your gun shoots and why.

J-frames ARE accurate if you do your part.

***GRJ***
 
J-frame's take a lot of practice to get good results at distances past a few yards. It took me month's to get it on target when I first started shooting one. I never use the sights much. These tend to be more point and shoot. They were at one time referred to as "belly guns", referencing the close proximity they were intended for. Work on your grip and arm extension.

I'll also note that the all stainless J-frame's like the model 60 and 640 tend to handle recoil better. I use to own a model 60 and almost always shot it better than the 642 airweight.

It's possible to shoot them with amazing accuracy. Just look at Hickok45
http://youtu.be/xgl8VuX0LuY
 
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