J frame went swimming, what now?

[Dragon88]

After your gun goes into "extreme" conditions a time or two you will get the cleaning procedure down well, it doesn't take too long. I realized this recently when I started shooting black powder loads in my SAA. First step, get all the contaminant off, be it black powder residue or salt water. Second, get oil on every nook and cranny of the gun, and inside the action. Third, blow and wipe all excess oil out or off the gun. A can of compressed air or a compressor does wonders for distributing oil in the action. Wipe down, reassemble, and it will usually be in better shape than before the experience.

 

[charlies]

No one has mentioned blowing out all the WD 40 and excess oil you use to replace the W-D A blast of 40#s air pressure always helps...
Charlie

 

[hhb]

In the old days, when our officers soaked their revolvers, we took the grips off & put them in the oven at a temp that would evaporate the water & not damage the weapon. Don't know how that would work today with night sites.

 

[hotrod150]

...I do like the idea of taking it all apart and oiling everywhere (like under things), but that will have to wait until I get a manual that shows me how....

IMHO the expression "a picture is worth a thousand words" is very applicable to watching a how-to video vs reading a how-to book. If the video posted above doesn't do it for you, find another. Google "yoda trigger job" for a good how-to video on disassembling (and tuning up) a modern hammerless j-frame. Ain't nothing to it if you're mechanical at all & have a good set of screwdrivers. A rebound slide tool is handy but not essential.
Oh, and put your gun in a ziplock bag (or your car trunk) the next time you go sailing.

 

[djshaw]

I get a kick out of all these folks who say "Don't use WD40." That is all I use on revolvers, semi-autos, and black powder. I have dropped revolvers into rivers and, after retrieving them, never bothered to disassemble them. I just spray the heck out of them with WD40 and put them away. Not a gummed up revolver or any rust patches anywhere, even on my extremely accurate and often fired model 14 of more than 40 years. Whine all you want and repeat others opinions if you will, I don't care. WD40 is perfect for me.

 

[zoom6zoom]

Next time you go sailing, put the gun in a ziplock bag. It will help keep it dry, and if need be it can be fired without removing it from the bag.

 

[BobB257]

Revolver Disassembly

Salt water is another animal and a good air blow or oil job is not going to cut it.
The water rinse works but hot water with a bit of Dawn in it makes an even better remover of the salt.
It sounds like you are dealing with fresh water.
I have the Kuhnhausen book and really enjoy it for the detail, but I also bought the Jerry Miculek video "Trigger Job". This shows the disassembly and for me was helpful to see just how it works.

 

[Lenny_D]

When I get brass wet from rain etc. I just lay them on a tray turn the oven to about 200* and set them in there for awhile. Don't know why that wouldn't work with a revolver, of course I'd take the grips off. Let it cool down than lub it up with whatever you like.

Len

 

[mkk41]

Actually , the WD in WD-40 stands for 'water displacing'.

If it were my revolver , and I couldn't remove the sideplate promptly , I would have flushed out the salt water with HOT fresh water , then after it dried , but was still warm , sprayed it's insides with Break-Free CLP.

That's kinda how I clean my black powder revolvers.

 

[squidsix]

I have some experience operating armed in an aquatic environment. My issued M9 has been submerged weekly for the entire duration of my current tour.
I get back from whatever event it is, and take the grips off, and drop the entire gun into a bucket of diesel. I let it sit there for a bit, and then pull it out and clean it thoroughly and relube (I use slipstream) and put it back in the armory. Easy.

 

[snubbyfan]

You need to flush that WD-40 out before it turns to varnish. Shooters Choice makes a very good spray lube/preservative. I would also detail strip the gun and clean each piece. I found a gun where the plunger/spring on the cylinder release bolt had rusted up. Water gets in everywhere, you have to clean it.

I'll add, spraying it with WD-40 was a good idea to displace the water until you figure out how to do a detail strip to clean and relube every single bit and piece. Make sure you know what you're doing before you start. I'd also consider doing a trigger job and maybe a spring change while the gun's in pieces.
I used to use WD-40 as a cutting oil, drilling out and repairing stripped threads with hardened steel insets on industrial machinery. I personally consider WD-40 as a cutting oil and water displacer, not as a lubricant. Use a proper, quality gun oil to relube.

 

[jakenov3]

I like to use brake cleaner to degrease and clean then relube.

 

[jdh]

Next time you go sailing, put the gun in a ziplock bag. It will help keep it dry, and if need be it can be fired without removing it from the bag.

Yep, it works. Use one of the heavier freezer bags or double the sandwich bag though.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

I am really surprised nobody mentionsd this

I have dunked my fair share of shotguns in water-both fresh and brackish. I disassemble them-put them in the sink and clean them with a scrub brush and soapy water. rinse well. Now here's the magic.
While you are cleaning the gun you have a tea kettle on the stove heating up. tale the newly cleaned and rinsed gun parts and pour the boiling water over them. They dry perfectly clean. Then lube and put back together. Works like a charm ( I take a toothbrush to the trigger group-dnever took one completely apart).
If you don't want to take your gun apart-take off the side plate-make sure there is no crud in there and hold it under running water to rinse out any crud that may have gotten into it. Use the boiling water to dry and then lube. Have NEVER had a gun cleaned thusly rust.

 

[SMSgt]

WD-40 is the only product that ever failed me on my guns. I wiped my shotgun down with it before hunting in a light snowfall, and the barrel rusted before the hunt was over. Never had that happen using the cheapest gun oil.

If you use it to get the water out, by all means clean the WD-40 out. It will get gummy. Apply some heat (hair dryer will do) to get all the moisture out of the nooks and crannies but don't get the gun "hot" when warm will do.

A thorough cleaning and lubing will keep the gun in working order.

 

[jkc]

Was me, I'd disassemble the gun to the extent necessary to expose all internals (grips, sideplate, cylinder & crane, extractor, etc.) rinse thoroughly with clean fresh water (tap water will serve just fine, real hot, all the better), blow dry with handheld hairdryer, then use a rust-preventative such as "Sheath" on internal parts, relubbricate, and reassemble.

A similar experience has taught me to carry Glocks if immersion is a risk --- way easier to remediate...

Also, please advise the design class and conditions causing the incident...

 

[Cook74]

Great debate so far... I recall reading a thread either here or another gun forum... I saw where many recommended using a jewelry cleaner but larger like they have at Harbor Freight... Fill the tank with Simple Green at a 10 to 1 or 5 to 1 ratio and let the gun clean itself.

Then rinse and dry in the oven or fan dry and oil...

I also saw a TV series that took guns and rifles and totally submerged them in gun oil then fired them without even shaking them out... pretty cool but gun oil was flying everywhere.

Bottom line is to remove the water and oil the weapon...

If you are in that much of a rush, take it to a local dealer who could probably show you first hand...

Just be sure to bring some donuts or something if they refuse to take a few bucks...

 

[Sebago Son]

Varnish?

"You need to flush that WD-40 out before it turns to varnish.... "

Really? How long does that process take? I've been using WD-40 on my guns for 30 years and nothing's happened yet ... so do I have much longer to wait?

 

[Richard_]

I was always told that WD-40 was a solvent as opposed to a lubricant. So I went to WD40.com to check it out. Here's what I found.

Quote
"The catchall phrase “Stoddard Solvent” is no longer adequate to tell the proper story. WD-40 does indeed have 50% mineral spirits, but they are refined and purified for specific characteristics needed to meet today’s performance, regulatory, and safety requirements."

You can decide for yourself at. WD-40 Facts & Myths | WD-40 Ingredients

Richard