You say you are familiar with disassembling/reassembling auto pistols (I think I read that right). If so, you should have zero problem getting that sideplate off. Confirm the gun is unloaded with the wire/dowel/screwdriver, etc.. that you have already discussed.
Remove the grips. You will see three screws on the right side of the weapon, and one screw on the front side of the grip frame (near the bottom). Using a properly fitted screwdriver, remove the three screws on the side. On most revolvers, the two rear screws are identical, but the front screw is different, so keep them separated.
Place the weapon over a folded towel, or something soft to prevent damage to the sideplate when it pops off. Turn the weapon with the left side facing up, and hold it by the barrel/fwd frame with your left hand. With a large screwdriver handle, broomstick, soft-faced hammer, etc., smack the left side of the grip frame. Start with easy blows and the sideplate should pop off after a few taps. If not, hit it harder. If it's stuck on with decades of dried oil/rust, it might take some serious smacks. But, eventually it should pop right off onto the towel. You will also notice another part comes off with it. No worries, that is your hammer block. It's easy to put back on when you reassemble.
With the sideplate off, see if you can see anything obviously wrong (with no revolver experience, you probably won't...but maybe). Now, back off the fourth screw (the one on the front grip frame) two turns. That is the strain screw and backing it off removes most tension on the mainspring. With most of the tension removed, now see if you can manipulate anything.
If it is dirty/gummy/rusty in the internals then spray some automotive brake cleaner all in the workings. If that frees things up, you should be able to see the contacts points and you want to place a drop or two of oil in there. Tighten the strain screw all the way and check for proper function. You DO NOT want to operate it very much with the sideplate removed AND the strain screw tightened. You simply want to see if it works, now. If it does, place the hole in the hammer block over the pin on the recoil slide and push the other end up under the hammer as far as it will go. Gently place the lip on the sideplate under the frame at the top and push it down with finger pressure until it is flush. If it won't go all the way on, it's because the hammer block is not on just right (look at the groove in the sideplate that it rides in). Move it a bit and you will get everything lined up and the sideplate flush. Replace the three sideplate screws (making sure you get them back in their original locations). Check that everything works and reinstall the grips.
If this doesn't work, you might want to call someone. However, if you like to tinker, you can completely strip one and put it back together without too much trouble. It's not rocket science. There are many Youtube videos on it. You don't need to worry about the model number. The basics are the same on all of them, with just minor variations.
Remove the grips. You will see three screws on the right side of the weapon, and one screw on the front side of the grip frame (near the bottom). Using a properly fitted screwdriver, remove the three screws on the side. On most revolvers, the two rear screws are identical, but the front screw is different, so keep them separated.
Place the weapon over a folded towel, or something soft to prevent damage to the sideplate when it pops off. Turn the weapon with the left side facing up, and hold it by the barrel/fwd frame with your left hand. With a large screwdriver handle, broomstick, soft-faced hammer, etc., smack the left side of the grip frame. Start with easy blows and the sideplate should pop off after a few taps. If not, hit it harder. If it's stuck on with decades of dried oil/rust, it might take some serious smacks. But, eventually it should pop right off onto the towel. You will also notice another part comes off with it. No worries, that is your hammer block. It's easy to put back on when you reassemble.
With the sideplate off, see if you can see anything obviously wrong (with no revolver experience, you probably won't...but maybe). Now, back off the fourth screw (the one on the front grip frame) two turns. That is the strain screw and backing it off removes most tension on the mainspring. With most of the tension removed, now see if you can manipulate anything.
If it is dirty/gummy/rusty in the internals then spray some automotive brake cleaner all in the workings. If that frees things up, you should be able to see the contacts points and you want to place a drop or two of oil in there. Tighten the strain screw all the way and check for proper function. You DO NOT want to operate it very much with the sideplate removed AND the strain screw tightened. You simply want to see if it works, now. If it does, place the hole in the hammer block over the pin on the recoil slide and push the other end up under the hammer as far as it will go. Gently place the lip on the sideplate under the frame at the top and push it down with finger pressure until it is flush. If it won't go all the way on, it's because the hammer block is not on just right (look at the groove in the sideplate that it rides in). Move it a bit and you will get everything lined up and the sideplate flush. Replace the three sideplate screws (making sure you get them back in their original locations). Check that everything works and reinstall the grips.
If this doesn't work, you might want to call someone. However, if you like to tinker, you can completely strip one and put it back together without too much trouble. It's not rocket science. There are many Youtube videos on it. You don't need to worry about the model number. The basics are the same on all of them, with just minor variations.
