Protocall_Design
Vendor
It's easy enough to back off the strain screw before removing the side plate, regardless of what state the action is in.
Jammed up Smith Revolver.....
- Thread starter dan_lo
- Start date
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Judging from the picture in post #14, which I have somehow missed until now, my guess would be that the hammer was cocked too far back and rode up over the trigger. If that happens, the gun is locked up until you take it apart and untangle the hammer and trigger. If that is what actually happened, it's an easy fix. If you're looking for that, it will be obvious as soon as you get the sideplate off.
You could be on to something. I went and cocked my 686-4+ and neither the hammer or the trigger sit back that far. The hammer will go that far, but returns to the cocked position.
bigggbbruce
Member
Gun in question here is a mdl60. I believe the problem could be the bolt or the lock.
It sounds just like a "old per-historic" handgun you mentioned. Handguns (all guns) require routine maintenance, just like automobiles, or other mechanical devices. They need cleaning and lubrication. I'm guessing it is old grease and oil that has turned to varnish/tar inside your revolver and/or dried up so much the metallic parts just won't move until cleaned and lubed. The internals of a revolver can be damaged if you don't know what you are doing. I recommend taking to a gunsmith to diagnose and treat.
Dan W. Cady
Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2022
- Messages
- 94
- Reaction score
- 90
May be as simple as an ejector rod that has come loose and jammed the works.
kbm6893
Member
Or a bit of dirt or powder under the ejector star that is gumming it up.
I wonder if the grips have bound up the hammer? Take off the grips.lf that does not help shoot some oil into the guts and wiggle stuff around.
The OP revolver is a J-frame Model 60, so it doesn't have a strain screw. It has a coil mainspring instead of a leaf spring and strain screw.
Since the hammer is all the way cocked, the cylinder won't open because the hand is in full extension against the ratchets, locking it up. Also, the S&W latch bolt design won't allow the cylinder to open with the hammer cocked. It has a hammer block safety integral with the back of the latch bolt. The sideplate will need to be removed to free up whatever is binding the hammer against the trigger.
I've seen 2 J Frames locked up identical to your. Both were caused by the internal lock.
Can't tell from the picture if your gun is a pre lock or not
Can't tell from the picture if your gun is a pre lock or not
It has the lock.
I've never personally seen a Knor L frame lock up because of the lock, but if a J frame can I would think it's possible a larger gun could lock up too. It's worth checking
Similar threads
