Jeweled hammers and triggers

Is that akin to "pearl handles?" as in G. Patton.
Just kidding!! To each his own.
 
I only have one with jeweling:
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Just a personal preference, but seems to me it only looks right if the handgun is otherwise embellished/engraved.
 
The hand scraped or engine turning on machine tools was a method to keep lubricants on the surface of the mating parts..the very shallow depressions held oils and improved lubricity. At least that's what I remember from my machinist days. So maybe that's why someone sent to the trouble to perform that on the inside of a revolver frame
 
Those swirl patterns indicate that the surface has received a final, very true flat treatment and give the added benefit of holding oil to cut friction.

That's interesting. I never knew that about jeweling. I always thought it was just a cosmetic treatment. I remember reading about a custom gunsmith who jeweled the chamber exterior of semi-auto pistols and said it was done to hide surface wear from cycling.
 
Just a personal preference, but seems to me it only looks right if the handgun is otherwise embellished/engraved.

I think the same thing. When I see a gun with jeweled hammers and triggers I pretty much expect to see some engraving or some other embellishment, even if it's just a subtle treatment.
 
I think I do like the jeweled parts better on the very embellished handguns, not the plain ones. But there is this:

Not a fan of jeweling, but as my Uncle Roy said, "I'm glad not everyone likes the same things or everyone would want my woman."

That made my day!!!! Well said!

Someday I'll get a picture of my customized Yugoslavian Mauser 8mm. It became a .35 Whelen at my request and, along with various embellishments, I had several parts jeweled. So I'm definitely not against that being done - and I'm old and simple and don't see this as being too fancy for an old and simple guy!!! :)
 
The jeweling done on machine tools as said before may be the marks of hand scraping like the ways on a lathe or milling table I was always told was the mark of a craftsman as these marks were done by hand using scrapers and prussian blue. They were done to get accurate fitting of the ways on a lathe or milling machine and to better hold lubricants. The lathes and other machines in the machine shop on my ship were checked and if needed were done once a year. I'm kinda old school as I remember the old pre '64 winchester model 70's had jeweled bolts as well as the older remington model 700's. Today it's machine it,chuck in the bluing tank and out the door. I don't think big green does that anymore even on the custom shop single shot or repeater models of the 40x. My sendero which I bought years ago is just a bead blasted bolt and so is the rest of the rifle. Frank
 
Thread revived (Sorry)

I'm looking at a Used model 66-1 over here in Australia. I'm not a fan of the jewelled trigger and hammer on this particular gun.

Is there any way to get rid of the Jeweling and tone it down? Or am I just better off waiting on a more original Model 66?
 
Thread revived (Sorry)

I'm looking at a Used model 66-1 over here in Australia. I'm not a fan of the jewelled trigger and hammer on this particular gun.

Is there any way to get rid of the Jeweling and tone it down? Or am I just better off waiting on a more original Model 66?

The best way to answer this is to see how deep the jeweling goes. a very light jewel with almost no depth could possibly be polished off but if the grooves go deep then no don't even think about it. Fit and finish will be ruined.

Like others the only place i like jeweling is on the bolt of my Mod 70 S.G. On rifle bolts it was done to improve action smoothness. The little ridges formed by the jeweling provide for reduced friction, thus speeding up the action. Even on this rifle I'd prefer it was not jeweled, but it came with it and I'm not going to change for an un-jeweled bolt.
 
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Thread revived (Sorry)

I'm looking at a Used model 66-1 over here in Australia. I'm not a fan of the jewelled trigger and hammer on this particular gun.

Is there any way to get rid of the Jeweling and tone it down? Or am I just better off waiting on a more original Model 66?

The surfaces can be smoothed with a ceramic sharpening stone. Wet the stone and carefully rub the surface until the marks are gone. Depending on the grit of your stone this can take a while. You can also polish the flats if you get a fine enough stone. BUT, remember, you are removing metal and changing the dimensions of the pieces. In this case, the widths, so you may need to center the hammer and trigger with washers depending upon how deep the swirls are and how aggressive your stone is.

Kevin
 
Thread revived (Sorry)

I'm looking at a Used model 66-1 over here in Australia. I'm not a fan of the jewelled trigger and hammer on this particular gun.

Is there any way to get rid of the Jeweling and tone it down? Or am I just better off waiting on a more original Model 66?

If the jeweling bothers you, keep looking. They made alot of 66s. Get the one you want. Not the one with something you have to immediately work on. Unless you get it for a project price. Which would be, to me, enough off the retail price to cover the cost of a new hammer and trigger. JMO.
 
How much are 66's going for over there?
I was under the impression you are not allowed to own a handgun unless under very rigorous scrutiny
 
How much are 66's going for over there?
I was under the impression you are not allowed to own a handgun unless under very rigorous scrutiny

There's a Model 66-1 currently going for $880 AUD which is about $600 USD. This is the one with the jewelling I was talking about.

Yes, it's a long process to get a Handgun Licence here in Australia. Steps include:-

a. Joining a Pistol Club
b. Complete firearms safety course
C. Apply for a Firearms Licence with Genuine Reason; Target Shooting.
d. Probationary Licence. Can only buy 1 x Handgun in first 6 months.
e. Must shoot at least 6 times a year. Usually has to be in a competition with scores counted.
f. Each firearm you buy, must submit an application to Police for approval.
g. Your safe must get inspected by Police.
h. All firearms must be registered.
i. There's all sorts of regulations of types of handguns allowed; caliber, barrel length, etc.

So it involves a bit of work and patience. But it's worth it.
 
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Thread revived (Sorry)

I'm looking at a Used model 66-1 over here in Australia. I'm not a fan of the jewelled trigger and hammer on this particular gun.

Is there any way to get rid of the Jeweling and tone it down? Or am I just better off waiting on a more original Model 66?

I don't know about used parts availability in your part of the world or if people are fussing over ITAR compliance for small parts purchased off places like Ebay, but I can tell you around here a hammer and trigger can be had pretty cheaply and then you can not only get rid of the engine-turning but also replace it with some nice case-coloring.
By the time you remove metal to do the turning and then remove more to make it flat again, I start to worry you'll get sloppy parts and loose too much of the surface hardness. Will it work, yes, but better practice to swap parts.
 
^^^^

You are removing metal from the sides, shim will take up what is removed. The hardening is important, on the contact between the trigger and hammer.

Kevin
 
Interior Jeweling

Like an earlier post, I picked up a Mod 57 that has an exceptionally smooth action - when taken apart, the interior was fully jeweled - the trigger and hammer were still case hardened and all of the jeweling was invisible from the outside.
 

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