K frame 327 project

steelslaver

steelslaver

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So, K32 are hard to find and spendy, but fun shooting guns.
I have some I frame and J frame 32 S&W longs as well as some top break 32 S&W and a 4" 16-4 in32 H&R mag. I had a 327 Federal cylinder made from a k22 cylinder for it, but used it to make a 3" fixed sight K frame. I have been using the J&G round butt model 10-7 for projects, including 2 357s, a couple 38 specials and the 327. I have one frame left and it is going to become a 327 Federal with adjustable sights.

Decided to take pictures of how I am doing it.

Hey, notice the heavy brass jaws on the vise I use for this stuff

The 32 caliber K frame barrels are hard to come by and getting one bored and re rifled takes time and $

So here is my solution. I bought a nice Remington model 25 barrel in 32-20 off Gunbroker. $106 with shipping. Then, I turned a piece of it like this on the lathe
31HRbg3.jpg


The shank is .540 with 36 to the inch threads for a K frame and there is a 3/8" piece ahead of the treads that is .500, then it steps down to 13/32 (.40625).

Then I took an old narrow rib K22 barrel and went to work on it with a 4 jaw chuck. First I drilled part way from the muzzle end at 25/64" and then reamed to 13/32", Then I flipped it around and centered it up and then cut off the shank. Drilled trough to meet the larger hole in muzzle half and reamed to the same 13/32", then I went in 3/8 of an inch at .500.
Rc1d70f.jpg

nC3VAxl.jpg


Now the "Liner" piece will thread into the frame with length to spare for barrel to cylinder gap adjustment, The .500 portion goes into the "sleeve" portion for a bit in front of the frame for more strength in that area. the frame joint area.
DLbbVxe.jpg

jkKHr8S.jpg


These two piece will be tinned and silver soldered to become one solid piece.

I have spare material at the muzzle to take it back and make it look factory.
3HP1euF.jpg


The frame will be getting milled for adjustable sights and the tang on those will match up to the rib on the barrel.
CREPENZ.jpg


and this K22 cylinder will become a recessed 327 cylinder
523pksZ.jpg


Bubba strikes a blow for Frankenguns. LOL
 
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The model 53 barrel would look good with the shroud. I have a model 19 barrel that I could have done my method too. But because of the way the profile of the 19 barrel and the 10-7 frame wouldn't match up I went with the narrow rib K22 barrel which well match well when I am done.

But that means I have a model 19 barrel with no home, I also have a recessed model 19 cylinder with no home. I need to find a donor K frame with the right profile. But there are other projects ahead of that. A 325 45 colt among them.

I figured out an easier way to set back barrel shoulders. I drilled and tapped some 1/2 brass round stock to 1/4 20. Then I tapered the ends, I put one piece on some 1/4 20 all thread and used a set screw to lock it in place. The square end was taper drilled to ride on a live center. So you slip the all thread (covered with tape except for where the brass piece will be) down the barrel with the locked brass piece on the shank end and then run the other piece of brass up tight on the muzzle. Then chuck the muzzle end in a 3 jaw chuck and use a dog to make it spin. Then with the live center in the other end. Your set up square and centered. A dial indicator set on the back side of shoulder tells you how much you are taking off.

I'll go set it up here in a bit and take a picture
 
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PS this method of the dial indicator will not give you a true reading of material removed because of the the indicator is moving at an angle. But, if you keep it really close to 45 from centers you can use the factor of 1.4142 to know. so a movement of .1414 is actually .1000. I could also stick the indicator on the carriage, But with this method of turning the shoulder there is a still better way. Simply remove the barrel with centering attachment still on it and as the brass piece is just .500 it will pass through a K frame or larger and allow you to try fit the barrel to the frame to see where it snugs up. I like to feel them start to drag at a bit past 1/2 way and become hard hand tight at about 10. The last about 20+ degrees being applying real torque.

I always use the try method a lot. Better to go slow and nail it than have to make another turn. Once the barrel is near where it torques up you can start working on the B/C gap to. K frames kind of suck because of the need for a flat on bottom of shank, but you can still hold cylinder part way closed to get really close
 
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This mornings work

First I got the frame level and lined up in the mill vise ( I have pieces of brass that fit the jaws of vise) and in several passes using a end mil cut a centered slot the width and depth of a sight tang.
aK4SRsH.jpg

checking it for fit with an old sight body.
kNXZUuc.jpg

Then mill off the portion above haver for sight body. Make a 1/8" slot into the main slot for elevatti0on screw, Then run a tiny ground down down keyway cutter in to form slot for elevation stud base.
0YaGQzO.jpg

Once the sight is in place and held by brass padded vise grips, I clamp it in the drill presses cross slide vise and line up a #46 drill to make the hole for the tang screw. I didn't get a picture, but once I drill the hole, I put a 3-56 tap in the drill chuck and turn chuck by hand with bit of slight down pressure to tap the hole. This gives you perfect alignment and control on little taps. A broken tap here would really suck as the bottom of the hole on the long tang sight bases is right in the frames barrel thread area. In fact milling, drilling or filing on a frame makes me nervous . Much of a mistake and it is basically trash.
dmv6nZO.jpg


Then, install the sights tang screw and run a 540-36 tap down the frame to clean the burrs from drilling. Install the liner and sleeve and just for fun the K22 cylinder to see where I am at.
Xee98nD.jpg


Looking good. The barrel shank will need trimmed a bit to get the right B?C gap once the cylinder is reamed to 327. Also need a bit of a flat on the barrel shank for gas rig and yoke to clearance, I will wait till after it is reamed for final fit as I may clean up the front of the cylinder a tiny bit when done. The reamer has be ordered from 4DReamer Rentals. Looking back I should have bought one as I have rented it about enough to pay for one. LOL. I also have a 9mm reamer coming as I plan to make a couple of the 38 cylinders from theses protect guns into 9mm cylinders.

I will probably silver solder the liner on to the sleeve this afternoon and do the muzzle. Put the front sight back on and get the barrel installed in the frame.

Still need to remove the import marks on the frame and remove the 22 lr markings on the barrel and mark it 327 Federal.
 
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Mr Steelslaver, I followed a very similar project over on the Cast Boolits forum. The builder was a fellow with the screen name "Crank." Would you like for me to dig out the URL? He's located somewhere out West but I got to meet him at the Nation's Gun Show in Chantilly, VA when he was here for some sort of class. His project went very successfully, IIRC.

Froggie
 
Oh yeah, I'm working on an I frame Kit Gun in 32. I'll be using a section of a Ross 303 barrel if it ever gets here. The latest step on its Odyssey was a five day trip from the USPS Southern MD Distribution Center to the USPS DC Distribution Center! It should be here by Easter at this rate! :mad:

Froggie
 
Hey, I have what is supposed to be an early 32-20 barrel, but it has to small of threads for a K frame Might be for J or a I if your interested. It is about 6" long and has no lug.

I am always interested in learning how others do stuff. Usually more than one way to skin a cat.

I just won 2 more K 22 cylinders on ebay $105 for both shipped. One was from a gun that had an obvious timing problem as it has firing pin marks all over its face. Thats ok. I can face it off and use it as a non recesses 32 cylinder in my 32-20 or my 16-4. The other one has no ejector. Oh well. parts, I have maybe 20 cylinders of various sizes and about as many barrels/
 
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steelslaver said:
Hey, I have what is supposed to be an early 32-20 barrel, but it has to small of threads for a K frame Might be for J or a I if your interested. It is about 6" long and has no lug.

I am always interested in learning how others do stuff. Usually more than one way to skin a cat.

I just won 2 more K 22 cylinders on ebay $105 for both shipped. One was from a gun that had an obvious timing problem as it has firing pin marks all over its face. Thats ok. I can face it off and use it as a non recesses 32 cylinder in my 32-20 or my 16-4. The other one has no ejector. Oh well. parts, I have maybe 20 cylinders of various sizes and about as many barrels/
Click to expand...

The early .32-20s, the 1899 and the 1902, had smaller diameter barrel shanks. Same for the .38s of that era.

If your 1899 .32-20 barrel is in good condition, I'm sure it would be valuable to the owner of a 1899 with a poor condition barrel. My own 1899 has a barrel that is pitted and very blue worn on the exterior, but the bore is very, very good. Since there were very few 1899s built, it would be a shame to cut up a decent barrel.
 
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This is a new old stock barrel. Never been on a gun. I got it from Numerich who had some a bit ago. I will save it as tthey do not show any now.

They are showing a later one, nickel and marked 32 Winchester with a lug

Have the barrel on my home grown K32 just about ready to torque up.
 
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