K Frame Parts Question

[Ernie]

I have a Model 15-3 and a previous owner apparently replaced the trigger and hammer with newer, stainless, parts.

I would like to replace them with original parts.
Question: Does the trigger and hammer have to match up as a pair?
( a narrow trigger with a wide hammer for instance ? )

Or can I use any combination as long as they are K frame parts ?

I also have a double action indexing problem, and not sure if it is caused by the trigger/hammer that was installed.

 

[chief38]

Ernie,
to the best of my knowledge Smith only experimented with Stainless Triggers & Hammers for a VERY SHORT amount of time and had many problems making them. They then went to Flash Chromed parts which sort of resemble Stainless Steel. MOST Stainless guns were shipped with the Flash Chromed parts and some with standard Case Colored ones so I would guess yours are Flash Chromed and not Stainless. I suppose there is a very very small chance they could be Stainless but I really doubt it. If they are - they would bring a tidy sum!

Yes you can mix or match Hammer Spur widths and Trigger widths. There is no law that says they have to both be either wide or narrow. The mating surfaces are all the same regardless of Hammer Spur or Trigger surface width. MOST M15-3's came with serrated narrow Triggers and Service width Hammers as I have on one of mine. The other one I own has the standard Trigger but I installed a Wide Spur hammer on that one. Feel free to use what you like. Also, be aware that SOMETIMES triggers and hammers will "drop in" and other times they need some fitting. If you know your way around a Smith the fitting is not a big deal, but can be frustrating if fitting for the first time.

 

[GB]

Hammers and triggers will USUALLY (but not always) swap out without issue. The big problem is finding hammers and triggers. (probably why you ended up with stainless in your blue gun). Look at any used parts before you buy and check the parts carefully, under magnification, looking for signs of wear and or polishing on the sear and other mating surfaces. New, factory, hammers and triggers for older Smiths are no longer made but triggers for K/L/N frames are all the same, as far as mating surfaces. Width doesn't factor in to the way the trigger works, just the way it feels. Hammers are frame specific. HTHs I don't know exactly what you mean about an "indexing problem" so I won't make any wild guesses about that. Good luck with your project. GB


Chief38 beat me to the draw!

 

[chief38]

BEST SOURCES FOR VINTAGE HAMMER & TRIGGER PARTS:

Jack First - Rapid City, SD

Numrich (Gunparts Corp.) W. Hurley, NY

Ebay

Gunbroker

Local Gun Shows

 

[Ernie]

Clarification of my indexing problem

In double action mode, if I do not allow the trigger to fully return forward, and pull the trigger back again, the cylinder revolves but the hammer does not cock. I believe this problem was the subject of earlier posts.

I just popped the sideplate and cleaned with a spray, but did not see an
awful lot of gunk. I did notice the trigger has rub marks, may be dragging on the frame a little.

I definitely am not an amateur smith, so have not gone further.

Thanks for the replies. I used to be a regular member long ago, foolishly got away from S&W revolvers, now getting back slowly.

Ernie

 

[chief38]

If you are not fixing this yourself...... find a competent GS - about the best advise I can give you. I would THINK that whoever fit the parts in your 15-3 they did NOT fit them correctly. That of course might be fixable but if you want the case colored original Factory parts, it's a moot point anyway.