Lead deposits on cylinder?

[Jersey Doug]

Have what looks to be lead building up on the cylinder over all six chambers? Something to do with the gap maybe?

 

[rwsmith]

Just a guess....

When the cartridge is at the 12:00 position it may be getting some splash back on the top strap. I guess.

 

[armorer951]

Looks normal to me....very hot atomized shooting debris. When soaked for a few minutes in your favorite solvent, it should rub right off.

 

[StakeOut]

The rear sight screw is short or not fully tightened up and causing this.

When the rear sight screw is even with the top strap this burn mark does not occur.

 

[Gripgrabber]

Ditto with stakeout said, happened to me (short sight screw)

 

[mh51]

Have the timing and lockup checked by someone competent. Looks like lead shaving that occurs when the barrel and chamber are not aligned completely.

 

[chief38]

You did not mention how many rounds it took to produce lead build up like that. If you say 100 - 150 then I would say it's not abnormal. If that build up is from 30 rounds or less I'd check your B/C Gap for excessive space or unevenness.

When you leave the Range prior to putting your Revolver back in the rug, wipe it down with an oil rag or silicone cloth while it is still warm. Much of the residue comes off much easier before cooling down (I find). I have at least one 100% Flannel Cloth soaked with Rig #2 Oil that is stored in my shooting bag for this purpose. When the rag is dry, re-apply your favorite oil & when it's dirty - just toss it and make up a new one. There was a Fabric Store going out of business in my area this Summer and they had a 1/2 Bolt of 100% Flannel that I purchased at a deep discount. I cut it up into 24" x 24" pieces and gave a bunch of my shooting Buddies a few each.

 

[S&WsRsweet]

You know I see partial bolts of fabric for sale all the time but I never even thought about buying for gun cloths ,I'll have to keep my eyes out for some flannel .Im all about being cheap lol.

 

[chief38]

You know I see partial bolts of fabric for sale all the time but I never even thought about buying for gun cloths ,I'll have to keep my eyes out for some flannel .Im all about being cheap lol.

Just make sure it's 100% Cotton Flannel.

Store in a thick 4 - 6 mil zip lock bag - not the cheap 1-2 mil sandwich versions.

 

[VNK971]

You did not mention how many rounds it took to produce lead build up like that. If you say 100 - 150 then I would say it's not abnormal. If that build up is from 30 rounds or less I'd check your B/C Gap for excessive space or unevenness.

I was getting this when I shot swaged HBWC. The idea of the hollow base is to expand on discharge and seal against the wall of the barrel. Even a small B/C gap can give you spitting. I switched to DEWC.

 

[flagman1776]

By all means check you screws & proper alignment...
A trick I learned... back when the PD I worked for required revolvers... we always got low bid 38 practice rounds... soft swaged lead that leaded badly.
I read in some gun mag about wiping the gun down PRIOR to shooting with Break Free CLP. I wiped down barrel, chambers & everything external except the grips with a wet patch, then a dry patch so only a film was left. All powder & lead residue was on top of the film & practically wiped off with a paper towel. The Dept Armorer (also my friend) saw what I did, inquired & liked the results. I noted a pump sprayer of Break Free CLP was at our next qualification.

 

[Krogen]

The rear sight screw is short or not fully tightened up and causing this.

When the rear sight screw is even with the top strap this burn mark does not occur.

? You're joking, right? The rear sight screw? That's the one used to adjust elevation and has nothing to do with the barrel/cylinder gap. Or do you mean the front screw on the rear sight? English is a wunnerful language, ain't it?

Seriously, I get this lead splash with every revolver I have when I use lead bullets. Doesn't matter if the gun is brand new or well used. It goes with the territory. I also get lead splash on cylinder faces. Again, that goes with the territory. The splashes can be exceedingly difficult to remove from a blued gun. On stainless you can use a Lead Away cloth. Just don't try it on blue unless you want your blued gun to look like stainless.

 

[steelslaver]

No, he is talking about the screw that holds the long piece of the sight body down. If it is one that is positioned right over the cylinder/barrel gap the blast from there gets concentrated by the shallow hole created by a short screw in that location. Get a longer screw and then dress it down to flush and the blast gets better distributed.

It is trrue that you always get some stuff from shooting lead, but the short screw deal does make the spot like deals his picture shows.

 

[StakeOut]

? You're joking, right? The rear sight screw? That's the one used to adjust elevation and has nothing to do with the barrel/cylinder gap. Or do you mean the front screw on the rear sight? English is a wunnerful language, ain't it?

Seriously, I get this lead splash with every revolver I have when I use lead bullets. Doesn't matter if the gun is brand new or well used. It goes with the territory. I also get lead splash on cylinder faces. Again, that goes with the territory. The splashes can be exceedingly difficult to remove from a blued gun. On stainless you can use a Lead Away cloth. Just don't try it on blue unless you want your blued gun to look like stainless.

You sir need to get out more and eat more fiber.

 

[Jersey Doug]

Here's some added info should included starting this thread. I was shooting HBWC so the comments suspecting this type bullet were correct. Also, this gun has the sight removed because it is scooped so those comments about the sight screw hole were also correct.
Thanks for the info to get me back on track!