Hi all. I stripped my model 13 in order to get it re-blued. I did not seal the bore. While I stripped all bluing, did I ruin my barrel? My revolver is carbon steel, not stainless. It is the same material as the frame. All one piece. If the frame is prone to corrosion and rust, how does Smith and Wesson prevent this happening in the barrel? Is it lined? coated? Did I remove this my removing all coating on the frame?
Lining inside barrel
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M13's do not have any barrel linings - they are solid steel. if you neutralized the stripper after removing bluing, that should have stopped the action of the chemicals. Being that the stripper does not harm the rest of the gun I can't believe it would have done harm to the inside of your barrel since it's the same as the outside.
Before you sent it out to be re-blued (unless you are doing it yourself), I'd coat everything with a rust preventative since all of the bluing has been removed and you don't want it to start rusting. Tell whoever is doing the re-blue exactly what you have done so far.
Smith & Wesson does nothing to prevent rust inside a barrel - it's up to the owner to do so. A light coating of a good gun oil after cleaning is all that should be necessary. Lead and Copper are not metals that rust so the major enemy of rust in your barrel is moisture.
M13's do not have any barrel linings - they are solid steel. if you neutralized the stripper after removing bluing, that should have stopped the action of the chemicals. Being that the stripper does not harm the rest of the gun I can't believe it would have done harm to the inside of your barrel since it's the same as the outside.
Before you sent it out to be re-blued (unless you are doing it yourself), I'd coat everything with a rust preventative since all of the bluing has been removed and you don't want it to start rusting. Tell whoever is doing the re-blue exactly what you have done so far.
Smith & Wesson does nothing to prevent rust inside a barrel - it's up to the owner to do so. A light coating of a good gun oil after cleaning is all that should be necessary. Lead and Copper are not metals that rust so the major enemy of rust in your barrel is moisture.
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Pisgah
Member
I have examined 200 year-old flintlocks whose bores are pristine and have never seen any sort of protection except faithful cleaning and perhaps a light coat of "sweet oil" (olive oil) or hog lard. Quit worrying. I also have an ancient .38 M&P that is completely bare of bluing -- you guessed it, nary a speck of rust. Again -- quit worrying and just take care of your gun.
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thank you all. I am getting mixed directions and ask your advice again.
My local, trusted, gun shop claims I ruined the barrel without inspection
WMD out of Florida says they can Nitrate my barrel to be like new
Smith and Wesson claims they only blue carbon steel barrels and do not use a special lining
I used goof-off and Krudd Kutter to take the finish off. Krud Kutter says, on the bottle "Rust Remover and Inhibitor"
Precision Bluing, who I have used in the past says my barrel is fine without inspection but I explained what I used.
A did my own test and left the frame outside last night, wet.
Please see the pics. It looks like everything rusted but the barrel.
So I am re looking for a consensus.
My local, trusted, gun shop claims I ruined the barrel without inspection
WMD out of Florida says they can Nitrate my barrel to be like new
Smith and Wesson claims they only blue carbon steel barrels and do not use a special lining
I used goof-off and Krudd Kutter to take the finish off. Krud Kutter says, on the bottle "Rust Remover and Inhibitor"
Precision Bluing, who I have used in the past says my barrel is fine without inspection but I explained what I used.
A did my own test and left the frame outside last night, wet.
Please see the pics. It looks like everything rusted but the barrel.
So I am re looking for a consensus.
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BUFF
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Believe what S&W said.
There are aftermarket gun coatings companies and shops that will plate or coat the inside of a barrel with various substances. Some may have merit for some purposes, but remember that the purpose of any business is to sell people stuff. Sometimes, some RIFLE barrels benefit from certain coatings but I can't see any benefit for a handgun barrel.
Like is said above, S&W doesn't put anything inside their barrels but preservative like oil after manufacture. They don't plug the muzzle and forcing cone when they blue the barrel, the inside gets blued and that doesn't make much difference in any way. Unless you shoot corrosive ammo in it and then don't clean it or get it wet and don't dry it and re-oil it, rust in the bore won't be a problem.
There are aftermarket gun coatings companies and shops that will plate or coat the inside of a barrel with various substances. Some may have merit for some purposes, but remember that the purpose of any business is to sell people stuff. Sometimes, some RIFLE barrels benefit from certain coatings but I can't see any benefit for a handgun barrel.
Like is said above, S&W doesn't put anything inside their barrels but preservative like oil after manufacture. They don't plug the muzzle and forcing cone when they blue the barrel, the inside gets blued and that doesn't make much difference in any way. Unless you shoot corrosive ammo in it and then don't clean it or get it wet and don't dry it and re-oil it, rust in the bore won't be a problem.
Arik
Member
There is no lining and there is no extra coating inside.
Barrel seems fine from the pictures.
A trusted LGS doesn't mean they are right, only that YOU trust them.
Are you going to do the re bluing? If not why not let the same place do the whole thing?
What kind of a test were you trying to do by leaving it outside overnight?
Don't be shipping it to Poland
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
Barrel seems fine from the pictures.
A trusted LGS doesn't mean they are right, only that YOU trust them.
Are you going to do the re bluing? If not why not let the same place do the whole thing?
What kind of a test were you trying to do by leaving it outside overnight?
Don't be shipping it to Poland
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
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Pisgah
Member
Here's your consensus -- you didn't take care of your gun. The maintenance-free gun does not exist. I don't care what it is made of, coated with, or reputed to be -- you must maintain it, and if parts of that gun are steel they must be kept lightly lubed or they will rust. Period.
And you did not hurt your bore.
Thank you all. I'm rebuing myself.
I'm trying the cheap stuff first. Birchwood Casey's Super Blue. I have ordered durablue from Brownells as a back-up. I do like an older looking finish.
Anyone had bad results from the $8.00 Super Blue?
I'm trying the cheap stuff first. Birchwood Casey's Super Blue. I have ordered durablue from Brownells as a back-up. I do like an older looking finish.
Anyone had bad results from the $8.00 Super Blue?
tomcatt51
Member
The better question is: "Anyone had good results from the $8.00 Super Blue?"
Have someone who does bluing do it right.
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