Lock plug. Now taking orders to ship next week.

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Thanks for the input, guys. A friend of mine, who is a professional machinist, is going to help me figure out the best way to make these plugs. We'll have to use a mill rather than a lathe. His lathe is too big, and mine probably is too small. Anyway, he's having hip surgery tomorrow and will be out of commission for about six-eight weeks. When he's able to get on his feet, we have plans to make a few samples and fit them in some of my guns. This will test how well we can duplicate Jonh's plug ( or my rendition of it) and also tell me about the time require to make them. That will determine the cost. The cost of materials is insignificant, it's all machine time. Looking at sometime around the middle of July before I can do anything else.
Regards
Ed
 
That's great news Ed, do you think you will be able to match the various finishes like John did? You will do well in this new business, as you can see orders are already backing up.
Sam
 
The brushed finish is not a problem. The black finish can be done a couple of different ways. Dunno about the bead blast finish. I don't have a blast cabinet. I guess I could take a handful to someone and get them blasted. Don't know how well the finish would match. I have a regular plug in my 627 Pro that has a bead blast finish. Doesn't look that bad.
 
I hate to say this but,if you have a problem with the lock and have to send it in,my rep from S&W told me that the warranty will not be covered on the revolvers if they see the plug. I am a wholesaler and that is from my rep.
 
I hate to say this but,if you have a problem with the lock and have to send it in,my rep from S&W told me that the warranty will not be covered on the revolvers if they see the plug. I am a wholesaler and that is from my rep.

That thinking is pushing more and more S&W loyalists to Ruger. Last year I broke down and bought a Ruger GP100 Match Champion because of the lock issue and found that I really like that gun.
 
I hate to say this but,if you have a problem with the lock and have to send it in,my rep from S&W told me that the warranty will not be covered on the revolvers if they see the plug. I am a wholesaler and that is from my rep.

I CAN ATTEST TO THIS BEING THE TRUTH. I SENT A NEW 617 IN FOR WARRANTY WORK, WITH JOHN'S PLUG IN IT. THEY SAID THAT IT VOIDED MY WARRANTY. THEY CHARGED ME FOR TRANSPORTATION BOTH WAYS, THE COST OF THE REPAIRS, THE COST OF ANOTHER PLUG, AND AN INSTALLATION FEE. THE SERVICE REP TOLD ME THAT THEY WOULD NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, RETURN A GUN WITH AN IL MISSING…..
 
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That's why you save the parts and reinstall the lock if you have to send one in for repairs. OTOH, I personally have owned 40-50 S&W pistols and revolvers over a 40+ year span and have yet to find it necessary to send any of them in for repairs.
 
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I hate to say this but,if you have a problem with the lock and have to send it in,my rep from S&W told me that the warranty will not be covered on the revolvers if they see the plug. I am a wholesaler and that is from my rep.

Sad that S&W is taking this stand.
One more reason to buy something other than S&W.
 
I think a lot of you have ridiculous expectations with regards to warranty work. If someone sent me a broken revolver they clearly screwed with I wouldn't fix it for free, either.
 
I think a lot of you have ridiculous expectations with regards to warranty work. If someone sent me a broken revolver they clearly screwed with I wouldn't fix it for free, either.

Too much fuss. Just save the ILS parts, in case you need them for sending in the gun or selling it.
 
Do you have to remove the internal lock system to utilize the plug? So far I've managed to avoid purchasing one with the IL.
 
Short answer is YES.
You CAN alter the lock so it does not function but this defeats the whole strategy
of saving the factory parts so as to be able to reinstall them if necessary.
I have only done this once on a very hard recoiling gun that had a somewhat "soft" lock.
It's pretty easy given some patience.
The hardest part is getting the side off and on without dinging the edges.
Several videos online about this.

Also recommended to anyone who wants to pop the side off a Smith is Kuhnhausen's
new (5th) edition of the S&W Shop Manual.
It's much nicer than the original.
What he has to say about some of the newer parts and designs is, shall we say, entertaining
and I'll let it go at that.
There is a wealth of good info in this book even if you never open a revolver up.

===
Nemo
 
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I'd like one for a Model 60, stainless.

The one I have from John for my 642 is silver-colored, but does not match the 642 (which is really aluminum that has a coating on it). I would like to try one that is polished stainless in the Model 60...

As for installation, I think the flag should STAY in the gun, with its pivot pin filling the small hole; but the small stud on the flag that locks up the hammer should be ground off. Some sources and YouTube videos suggest removing the flag, but that leaves an small empty hole on the left side of the revolver. My revolvers that still have the lock mechanism do not have the stud on the flag, so there is no chance of the revolver locking up.
 
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