Loctite? Model 442 Airweight

[LGLDSR]

I had to disassemble a 442 Airweight and upon doing so I noticed that one of the three screws that secures that frame had what appears to be red Loc-Tite on it (two others had none). I believe this screw, the larger of the three, is for the Yoke. In any event some of this Loc-Tite (?) came off when removing the screw. Prior to reassembly should I put more LockTite on there or just keep a handful of these screws on-hand? With respect to the former, should I first remove what is currently on that screw? Thank you

 

[eyegots2no]

No expert here, but, i would not put locktite on SW screws--sideplate screws especially.

I did once put a small dab of blue loctite on a cylinder release screw----it was a 629 and that screw kept coming loose.

 

[LGLDSR]

Thanks. I just got off the phone with S&W. They are using a compound called Nylok and not Loctite as I had thought.

 

[tomcatt51]

Thanks. I just got off the phone with S&W. They are using a compound called Nylok and not Loctite as I had thought.

Correct. It's not Loctite. It IS a threadlocker as is Loctite.

We're dealing with semantics.

If you want to use a threadlocker (and many, but not all, the newer non-yoke sideplate screws I've rcd have the red threadlocker on them) use an appropriate threadlocker like (purple) Loctite 222. Loctite gets a bad name here because too many people use a type too "strong" for the application.

Sight mount screws (after-market on the 3 hole pattern) I use 242 (blue) ONLY if they come loose with (purple) 222. ALL other screws get 222 but only if they keep coming loose. IF you actually really clean the screws, both the male and female threads, the usual 242 is really too strong for the small, fine thread, fasteners we're dealing with. If you use 242 on oily threads (probably more common) it's usually ok.

It's funny, some here say to NEVER use Loctite and I've sworn at people whose guns I've worked on who've used Loctite inappropriately. I also have guns that won't keep their (usually) yoke screws or extractor rods tight without.

Use threadlockers appropriately. S&W does.

Just my 2C.

 

[dr. K]

Correct. It's not Loctite. It IS a threadlocker as is Loctite.

We're dealing with semantics.

If you want to use a threadlocker (and many, but not all, the newer non-yoke sideplate screws I've rcd have the red threadlocker on them) use an appropriate threadlocker like (purple) Loctite 222. Loctite gets a bad name here because too many people use a type too "strong" for the application.

Second to that - the purple Loctite works well, just make sure you use the right screw driver as always.

 

[stu1ritter]

Threads that are going to be used with Loctite should be cleaned with a de-greaser (I use lacquer thinner) and then properly sprayed/wiped with Loctite primer. Loctite even makes a small aerosol called "Clean and Prime" that does both at the same time.
Having spent 30 years as a Mercedes mechanic, I can tell you that threads, oil and Loctite just don't work.

 

[chief38]

IMHO NO THREAD LOCKER is needed or required on S&W Revolvers. Been working on them and shooting them for 35+ years and never had a properly tightened screw come loose unless of course I purposely unscrewed it. IMHO Thread lockers are more trouble than the are worth on a well maintained Smith.

Great for Motorcycles and Autos, and in general they are a very good product - just not for guns. Just my opinion of course........

 

[Old cop]

My airweight Js sometimes have cylinder latch and/or the yoke screw come lose after extended shooting (100 + rounds). Nothing serious, I just learned to check all frame screws after a session at the range.