Looking for a gunsmith for old SW revolver

bmh26

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I’ve been working on a Victory revolver project. I’ve built it up after just buying the frame. Unfortunately it took my gunsmith about 10 months to install the barrel. After that I was told it was unsafe to shoot due to it not timing correctly and the forcing cone was not chamfered.

Do you guys have any recommendations for a gunsmith that specializes in these older revolvers? Or is there a way to fix these issues myself?
 
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Just out of curiosity why didn't he cut the forcing cone and correct the timing when he was working on the revolver? 10 months to install a barrel is ridiculous IMHO. If I was a GS working on a customoers gun and knew there were additional issues I would have called you and gotten your OK to fix those as well. Sounds weird to me that he didn't.
 
There are a lot of "gunsmiths" who are just parts changers. Also, competent revolver smiths don't grow on trees. It'd help if we knew at least what part of the country you're in. Alex Hamilton at Ten Ring Precision in Texas is a good suggestion.
 
Ya that’s what I think this guy is. Don’t want to outright bash him. Didn’t keep me updated as he should have. I saw there are chamfer reaming kits I could try. And have new cylinder pieces to see if that fixes the timing issue.
 
You want a smith who specializes in S&W revolvers, not just a general gunsmith. Lots of nuances to working on S&W revolvers that don't fit the abilities of most generalists.
 
There are a lot of "gunsmiths" who are just parts changers. Also, competent revolver smiths don't grow on trees. It'd help if we knew at least what part of the country you're in. Alex Hamilton at Ten Ring Precision in Texas is a good suggestion.

Briley in Houston is a good choice too.
 
Ya that’s what I think this guy is. Don’t want to outright bash him. Didn’t keep me updated as he should have. I saw there are chamfer reaming kits I could try. And have new cylinder pieces to see if that fixes the timing issue.

If you have the parts & ability and skill to fix the timing, then you should do it. There are books by Jerry Kuhnhausen that can tell you just how it's done. As far as the forcing cone is concerned, WHY does it need cutting? Didn't it leave the S&W factory already with the cut? I have yet to see one that didn't. While some GS's like an 11º cut, it is not essential and the factory doesn't do that.
I have cut a few of my FC's to 11º and to be honest I see no difference in accuracy, leading, etc. Yea, maybe in theory but in my experience it makes so little difference to a properly aligned barrel, I would not bother.

These days it is just too much of a hassle and far too expensive for gun-smithing out of town. Forget about the wait times at least for competent GS's. I would avoid it at all costs and would urge anyone with the ability, skill and a few tools to learn these skills themselves. Going forward our society as it stands right now wants to make it as expensive, as much of a hassle and as illegal as possible to ship firearms. We will soon be at the point that you would be better off throwing away or selling an old gun, then just buy a new one rather than to ship it out. This is their plan. Then new guns will either be so restricted or illegal to buy. Not an accident!

At this time new guns are repaired and taken care of by the manufacturer, including sending a call tag and paying for the shipping. Let's see how long that lasts! I have always advocated for anyone that has the desire, tools, skill or desire to learn how to maintain and repair almost anything mechanical themselves. We are rapidly returning to self sufficiency, a practically non repairable item, or pay through the nose scenario.
 
As far as the forcing cone is concerned, WHY does it need cutting? Didn't it leave the S&W factory already with the cut? I have yet to see one that didn't. While some GS's like an 11º cut, it is not essential and the factory doesn't do that.

Never say never. I once had someone bring in grandad's M&P in the tan box with blue writing. Pristine box, absolutely gorgeous bluing, very little wear. Cutting to the chase, NO forcing cone. Never had one.

The factory forcing cone was 18 degrees. Allegedly, at some point (don't recall when-or know if they did) they switched to the 11 degree cone. The exact angle won't really matter to most of us, the surface finish does.
 
Many S&W revolvers I have had had very "minimal" forcing cones. As long as they shot O.K. I left them alone. I did have one Mod 17 that shaved lead, It had to be fixed.
 
The gunsmith i brought the gun too had to shave some of the barrel down so the sights align. He then told me the forcing cone wasn’t chamfered. I’m just going off of what he says. I have a spare crane and cylinder I’m trying to hand fit to see if that fixes the timing issue
 
What exactly is the timing issue? Is the cylinder not carrying up to where each chamber is aligned with the barrel? If that is the case, swapping for a different hand might fix the problem.
 
Yes. When I look down the barrel I can see a bit of the side of the cylinder one way or the other. It isn’t centered up to the barrel. Changed out the crane and cylinder and seems to have fixed the issue. Going to test it tomorrow.
 
Yes. When I look down the barrel I can see a bit of the side of the cylinder one way or the other. It isn’t centered up to the barrel. Changed out the crane and cylinder and seems to have fixed the issue. Going to test it tomorrow.

A proper S&W revolver smith has a snug fitting range rod to drop down through the barrel to check alignment of each cylinder with the barrel. If not aligned, "spitting" of bullet material,well beyond a little combustion products, is to be expected. Substantial spitting is bad for accuracy and dangerous to those near the sides of the revolver when it is discharged.
 
Don't feel bad my smith had the barrel for a year and did nothing
I’ve been working on a Victory revolver project. I’ve built it up after just buying the frame. Unfortunately it took my gunsmith about 10 months to install the barrel. After that I was told it was unsafe to shoot due to it not timing correctly and the forcing cone was not chamfered.

Do you guys have any recommendations for a gunsmith that specializes in these older revolvers? Or is there a way to fix these issues myself?
 
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