Looking to inspect the internals of a 25-2.

SWBigBang

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Picked up a model 25-2 for a pretty good price as the trigger "seems" to have an issue.

Based on some threads i have read this could simply be due to gunk build up with the older revolvers that sat around for a while.

What i would like to do is simply inspect the internals to see if i can simply clean it out or need to ship it off to S&W for repairs.

Is this an easy task to do. One concern is something like a spring popping out or opening up the side and the parts all fall out if not done properly.

i searched you tube but didn't find any specific to this model.

Any recommendations?
 
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The easiest thing to do without a complete disassembly is to squirt some gun cleaning solvent into the works and let it sit and dissolve any hardened oil or gummed up lubricant. For this purpose, CLP Breakfree is a good choice, as is Hoppes Number 9, or even WD-40. What you want is something with a good solvent action that will not harm the finish. I assume this is a blued gun? If it is nickel plated, then you want to avoid any prolonged exposure to cleaning solvents.

Let the gun set for a couple or three days, and cycle the action a few dozen times. This can even be done using a cleaning solvent using paint thinner or varsol. Please be advised that the solvent will ooze out of the action for days to come, some be prepared to wipe it off repeatedly.

Removal of the sideplate and complete disassembly is advised only if there is actual mechanical binding or something worn or broken inside. Best that you look up and study disassembly diagrams before you attempt this.
 
Guess I'm going to disagree with John and recommend removing the sideplate and looking inside since you just got the gun and it's new to you. Nice to be sure all is well. It's not hard, nothing jumps out and the only loose part is the hammer block.

This is probably covered in the FAQ's but here goes: Remove the grips. Back off the strain screw to take the tension off the main spring. Remove the (3) sideplate screws. Remove the cylinder and yoke. Hold the frame in your hand and rap (firmly) the right side of the grip frame with your screwdriver's handle. You'll see the sideplate lift as you tap. Don't pry it up, just tap the grip frame. Lift the sideplate off. Look at the hammer block, you'll see a pin sticking up on the rebound slide it goes on and a groove in the sideplate it rides in. Clean and inspect and oil. Oil, no grease. DON'T pull the trigger with the rebound or main spring in place. It's really hard on the frame pins. Inspecting and cleaning and lubing will give you peace of mind that all is well.
 
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Don't pry it up, just tap the grip frame.

This worked great. Only the hammer block fell out, but appears simple enough to put back in.

Looks like there is a bit of grit inside and it really needs to be cleaned. I searched but couldn't find any video on You Tube nor any detailed information on this sight (unless I missed it) or via Google.

I am thinking about checking out AGI for a video, but any other suggestions? I would really like to give it a try myself to get a better understanding of the workings as well.
 
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S&W model 10 disassembly,inspection,select repairs and reassembly - discussion - THR
This is just what you are looking for.

S&W model 10 disassembly,inspection,select repairs and reassembly - discussion

Actually I did find that but you need to register to view the images. I can't keep track of the accounts I have right now and didn't want to do yet another simple to view a single thread. :o

Let me know if you think that thread is worth it and if so, I will go ahead and create an account.
 
Thanks it worked.

Although the pictures weren't exactly the same, it really helped.

Was able to remove and replace all the parts.
It looks like the rebound spring may need to be replaced and will discuss this in another thread.
 
I reviewed the disassembly on the High Road. He did an excellent job of explaining the steps. I noted several internal changes I don't see in most of my S&W's, (my newest revolver is a 1988 Mod 29-3). Everything is basically the same, but a few mfg. differences.

I vote also for the Jerry Miculek video's. He also does a fine job.
 
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