Lube, do you or don't you?

Hey guys, how many of you have ever seen a gun oil refinery? Me neither, because there are no such things. When you are spending big$$$ for a 4 oz bottle of oil you are falling for the infamous "snake oil con" all over again!

Mobile One is the best you can buy and is a synthetic formulation to not pick up and hold carbon. That's why it works so well in automobile engines which is a very high carbon environment. Oil never wears out it only get dirty!

Grease is just oil with wax or paraffin added it to it to make it thicker so it stay put.

When you clean a gun barrel you are just putting a very thin oil in it, letting stay in there a while and then wiping it out with a patch after the oil has soaked up the loose carbon in the barrel. That's that black stuff you see on a dirty patch. Soap and water will do the same thing and that was how firearms were cleaned in the old days and even up to the use of corrosive primer for cartridge ammunition used in early 1911 pistols during WWI.

It is a proven fact that oil reduces friction and that's all it does, but it collects dirt in the process. In Vietnam we used diesel fuel and gasoline to clean our weapons and motor oil on the 1911 junk and wheel bearing grease on the bolt carrier groups of the M-16 rifles.

Gaston Glock discovered that nickel and polymer have a natural lubricity when rubbed against each other. The only problem was that nickel can not adhere to steel. Smith & Wesson discovered that if you coated steel with copper that nickel will adhere to the copper. That's why Glock internals are copper and then nickel plated. This makes the internal self lubricating. S&W even got sued when they copied this process with the Sigma Series.

I am sure just about everybody has smelled Hopps # 9. That distinctive smell is to cover up and mask the smell of kerosene and ammonia in the formulation. Here's the kicker, ammonia eats and destroys copper! So you never want to use Hopps on a Glock or a nickel plated gun! Just a little experience I have learned in my 70 plus years on this planet!
 
Most of the gun oils Ballistol, Hoppe's, CLP, etc. are mineral oil based. Each adds an alcohol a petroleum alkaline (kerosene, Acetone) and a scent or coloring ingredient.

Frog lube is coconut oil based and adds non petroleum or non toxic mint flavored ingredients. Its a very low calorie choice.

Synthetic motor oils are petroleum based and blended with mineral oil and other petroleum based additives.

Which is the best? Who knows. If I had little ones at home Frog lube would be a good choice. Eat the whole tube, it just makes you poop weird.
 
There is no such thing as a gun oil refinery! If you want to pay $10.00 for 4 ounces of oil go right ahead. I am still on my first .90 quart on Mobile One that is now 20 years old! To eat your own, as they say LOL!
 
I agree with RC - if you keep your stuff clean and oiled, oil is oil!

I'll not get into the molecular level, and how oil lubricates and sacrifices itself. Oil can and does break down, with use. That is one of it's functions. The other being collecting impurities, and keeping them in suspension so they can't harm anything.

When oil "breaks down" all of the molecules have been squeezed flat, and are no longer capable of lubrication/sacrifice. I doubt you will ever see that in gun use with even the barest amount of cleaning/maintenance/lubrication!

If anyone thinks the newer synthetic motor oils are not up to the task of standing up to heat, and staying consistent under all circumstances - you better do your due diligence.

My "gun oil" comes out of leftover "empty" Pennzoil Ultra bottles. It's really good stuff! The best part (not considering performance) is that it is "free!"
 
How many of you gentlemen have ever seen a " Gun Oil Refinery " ?????

A quart can of automobile automatic transmission has lasted me for over 20 years now. I have never seen a transmission with rusted parts in it either......just saying!

By the way, transmissions work from 40 below zero to over 200 degrees also.

my only real problem with atf is the stuff stinks.
 
my only real problem with atf is the stuff stinks.
Have you ever smelled some of that stuff that goes for $8 to $12 an ounce????? :eek::eek::



Try some 5 W 40 Mobile One see if you find it more smell friendly :cool: Try Marvel Mystery Oil, my wife loves the smell of it :)
 
Have you ever smelled some of that stuff that goes for $8 to $12 an ounce????? :eek::eek::



Try some 5 W 40 Mobile One see if you find it more smell friendly :cool: Try Marvel Mystery Oil, my wife loves the smell of it :)
nope. 0w20 has almost no smell.

1911s, m&ps, pump shotguns, ar platform … no problems.
 
Dry.

So far I am the only responding to this thread that runs a dry pistol.........

- Preston
 
Frog Lube is excellent if you can wipe it all off after applying it and after cleaning the firearm after shooting it. I noticed less wear with Frog Lube than any lube I've used. That's fine for and AR15 because you can completely strip the rifle down except maybe for the gas rings. But to completely disassemble an M&P pistol or a Walther PPQ? No thanks. The key to Frog Lube is to apply it to warm parts and completely remove it with the microfiber cloth. Other than that' it's a glob fest. I say that as a fan. I used to take my M&P pistols completely apart when cleaning them with Frog Lube. PITA. I still use it on my AR and bolt action rifles.
AA
 
After every range practice I field strip my Shield.

Use nylon brush to scrub and wipes and q-tips dipped in Ed's Red to go over every field stripped part including inside barrel.

Use dry wipes and cleaning rag to thoroughly wipe down again.

I do not drop oil on parts but use oil on q-tip and wipe those metal surfaces again and also the slide channels.

Final step, use oily rag to wipe surface of pistol and then throughly wipe surface with dry cleaning rag.

Have done this on every 1911 and polymer pistol owned for many years.

Never had a single rust or deterioration problem using this procedure.
 
Last edited:
I do see that. Who reads the manual! Just kidding lol, I read the parts I needed.
4435fc78b9c7a7cc0f7fd64dbe29658c.jpg
99ec7b1ece10c9faf652c9d43434d64c.jpg

+1
I just skip to the important parts I want to read and need to know....:D
 
I go a step farther than the book. After every five or so normal cleanings, I use Hoppes #9 mixed with some powder solvent to soak those hard to reach areas, trigger pivot, sear etc. I then use compressed air to blow out those areas which cleans out any accumulated dirt and powder residue. Afterward I follow up with lubing all the contact points with Klotz Techniplate 2 stroke oil.
 
Back
Top