Lube problem thread.............?

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Sprefix

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I have several types of lube and encountered a problem. I'm trying to take the short cut to my issue via the forum. One of my lubes turned to a sticky, almost scent-free mess. It rendered a top grade 1911 inoperable. The slide was almost immovable and the firing pin was glued in place. It cleaned-up easily, but I can't remember for the life of me which lube I used on it. I have Wilson Combats pistol lube, Royal Purple Synfilm, Militec, Rem Oil, Outers(very old), M-pro 7(I'm leaning towards this as the culprit), Corrosion X, and Boeshield T-9. The Wilsons' smells kinda like the problem. The Synfilm has been used a little and could be a contender for the smell. The Outers is ancient! The M-pro 7 seems like it was the one used as I hadn't used it before. I kept it for a field kit, but I can't be sure. Anyone have this or similar experiences with any of these or other lubes? I'd love to know so I don't have to test each of them for two months each on guns that I don't want tied up. Thanks in advance............
 
The only lube I use is Break Free. Never had a problem, and it does a nice job protecting the finish as well. I've only heard of the problem you describe happening with WD40. It might be interesting to compare the ingredients......
 
For 30+ years I've used Rig #2 Oil with stellar results. It cleans, lubes & protects. EXCELLENT product!

RIG #2 Gun Oil Lubricant & Protectant 4-1/2oz Spout Can

Recently (it's been a real hot Summer here) I've been putting Rig +P light grease on my slide and frame groves and sliding parts in the 1911's. Seems to work very well.

Quite honestly, almost all of the name brand lubes I've tried will work well enough and as we all know the most important thing here is not WHICH ONE we use, it's we must ALWAYS use one of them. General rule of thumb is that the colder the temperature is the lighter the lubricant should be. The sandier and dustier the environment is the drier the lube should be.

Chief38
 
I would guess the Outers as it is "very old" if it smells like old stale gas,it has turned to varnish. Outers if I recall was a very high petroleum base product.

A friend had a bottle of old #9 that must have been 29 years old, He opened it in the shop and I though I was gonna die.

When in doubt, throw it out (responsibly)
 
Please take it easy on me gentlemen.

Still using LSA Mil-L-46000B made by Castrol.:(

Left the Army in 69, that brainwashing is extremely difficult to shake off.:(
 
It is gone.........

Rule3 said:
I would guess the Outers as it is "very old" if it smells like old stale gas,it has turned to varnish. Outers if I recall was a very high petroleum base product.

A friend had a bottle of old #9 that must have been 29 years old, He opened it in the shop and I though I was gonna die.

When in doubt, throw it out (responsibly)
Click to expand...

It is in the trash as we speak. It is a very small amount for the EPA driven people on the forum.....:)
 
labworm said:
Still using LSA Mil-L-46000B made by Castrol.:(
Click to expand...

There is nothing wrong with using LSA.......A friend gave me a long-hoarded bottle at my club range one day, he swears by the stuff and I can find nothing to complain about. I use it sparingly, on my best guns. It doesn't migrate, and it works well in all temperatures I'd use it in.
 
I like Break Free, but I have had an issue with it. It seems to work well to clean and lube. But I've lubed guns and put them up for a couple months only to have them gum up. Minor issue I guess as long as I re-lube a put up gun before I use it. I tried using WD-40 on the job repairing cash registers. It defanatly gums up after a short period on constant moving parts.
 
papajohn428 said:
There is nothing wrong with using LSA.......A friend gave me a long-hoarded bottle at my club range one day, he swears by the stuff and I can find nothing to complain about. I use it sparingly, on my best guns. It doesn't migrate, and it works well in all temperatures I'd use it in.
Click to expand...

I love the stuff, have many 4 oz plastic OD bottles of it I purchased years back at a Army Surplus store.

Like yourself it goes everywhere on all my firearms inside and out.
 
sounds like you may have TOO many types of lube, you start to mix and mingle and you WILL have issues...find one that works for YOU ,we all have our favorites and most of them if used properly can and do work............also differents lubes are to be used in different applications,one type for slides on autos and others for innards/lockwork of revolvers.............
 
I've tried many but keep coming back to RemOil, Tetra, and Engine Assembly Lube (with Moly & Graphite).

BTW
Severe chemical sensitivity has precluded me from ever using Hoppe's #9 again [sniff] and I've found I get barrels nice and clean with RemOil & Remington 40-X Bore Cleaner.
No odor and it works.
 
Dang!! Break Free--Got it too and................

JcMack said:
I like Break Free, but I have had an issue with it. It seems to work well to clean and lube. But I've lubed guns and put them up for a couple months only to have them gum up. Minor issue I guess as long as I re-lube a put up gun before I use it. I tried using WD-40 on the job repairing cash registers. It defanatly gums up after a short period on constant moving parts.
Click to expand...

You guessed it, It was mine as an infantryman in '86-'90 (it is OLD). It has settled out to a white paste in the bottom of the jug. I shake it vigorously and it comes to life. Guess I better send it to file 13 also.
 
Clean the pistol well, and re-lube. I have been introduced to SLIP products, and I use their cleaner and EWL. While I wear medical gloves for almost all of the cleaning process, this stuff is water based and you won't be absorbing all sorts of chemical crud using it. If I feel like using a little grease, I have been using XF7 in a VERY THIN layer, which will somewhat trap the EWL for guns that are carried a bunch and not shot all that much.
 
I think I found a source for lsa mil l 46000b. I'm waiting for an email response on price. They also have lubriplate, which is what I use to grease the rails. I have 2 tubes so I probably won't need more, ever, depending on shelf life.
Oh yeah, the site is QC lubricants. Sorry, I wasn't trying to keep it secret.
 
I hate hearing about people using WD-40 as a lube. Kids did it all the time then I'd have to fix their bikes. Its great stuff for cleaning bearings and anything gooped up, but it needs to be removed afterwards. I used to use it to clean my hands when they were black with grease and grime.
 
I have a tall can of "3 in One" that I use tiny bits on rails and grooves.....It is probably 30 years old.
 
Just one more...then I can stop...

RightArm said:
I think I found a source for lsa mil l 46000b. I'm waiting for an email response on price. They also have lubriplate, which is what I use to grease the rails. I have 2 tubes so I probably won't need more, ever, depending on shelf life.
Oh yeah, the site is QC lubricants. Sorry, I wasn't trying to keep it secret.
Click to expand...

I swear, just one more lube brand and then I'll stop...............:) I don't have a problem. This is for all our benefit:)!! I'll even trade two for a new one............OK, so it's the two I already pitched, but it still goes.....................
 
Throw out all your cleaning stuff and get bottles of:

Hoppes #9

Break Free CLP

Mil Com MC2500 oil and grease ( samples packed with new Sigs)
expensive but lasts, and lasts. A very little bit goes a long way

NRA Licensed Gun Care System By Mil-Comm MC2500 Synthetic Gun Oil 3oz

I also have every cleaning/oil/solvent known to man. It is an obsession like guns;) The listed ones above are all I ever use.

For non toxic Ballistol is really good.

Best Rust prevention is Eezox (midway no longer sells it but Warren Outdoors are good people)
 
JcMack said:
I like Break Free, but I have had an issue with it. It seems to work well to clean and lube. But I've lubed guns and put them up for a couple months only to have them gum up. Minor issue I guess as long as I re-lube a put up gun before I use it. I tried using WD-40 on the job repairing cash registers. It defanatly gums up after a short period on constant moving parts.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem. And as I stated on another thread, CLP completely dissipates when heated. At least that's my experience with it.

Not to insult CLP lovers, but it's hard to convince some of them that there are better products available.

I recommend and use Tetragun on the barrel and Gunbutter on the slide and frame. A fluoropolymer, Tetragun does not dissipate. And Gunbutter is easy to apply and it works well.

Sure it cost more. But isn't it worth it?
 
Of course cleaning/lube products can be discussed until the Cows come home.:) But that is why there are so many choices of snake oil available. If the firearm is cleaned frequently probably any type of oil is good enough.

WD 40 is a good solvent/cleaner and rust preventive, not a great long lasting lube. It was good enough for our ICBM missiles to keep them from rusting in their silos.:D

CLP is a Teflon product, the Teflon remains.

All the testing done with the product shows it is excellent at both lubrication and RUST prevention.
 
Rule3 said:
Of course cleaning/lube products can be discussed until the Cows come home.:) But that is why there are so many choices of snake oil available. If the firearm is cleaned frequently probably any type of oil is good enough.

WD 40 is a good solvent/cleaner and rust preventive, not a great long lasting lube. It was good enough for our ICBM missiles to keep them from rusting in their silos.:D

CLP is a Teflon product, the Teflon remains.

All the testing done with the product shows it is excellent at both lubrication and RUST prevention.
Click to expand...


:D:D:D:D:D:D
CLP Cleaner Lube | Gun Cleaning Products
 
Kanewpadle said:
I thought you'd like that!:p
Click to expand...

I must agree that CLP is perhaps not the best solvent and I do not use it as such. Still use old #9 to clean and Gun Scrubber (brake cleaner) to clean degrease. Finish off with CLP or Rem oil.

For those special occasions , the MC2500. My guns are happy with a varied diet:D
 
Rule3 said:
I must agree that CLP is perhaps not the best solvent and I do not use it as such. Still use old #9 to clean and Gun Scrubber (brake cleaner) to clean degrease. Finish off with CLP or Rem oil.

For those special occasions , the MC2500. My guns are happy with a varied diet:D
Click to expand...

Same here. CLP is good stuff. But I'm not one that jumps on the bandwagon "just because". :rolleyes:

I really like Tetragun for the barrel and Gunbutter or Pro Gold grease.

But I remember a time when Hoppe's was all anybody used.;)
 
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