CatSnipah
Member
I'm now at 550 +/- rounds through my 9 mm shield. Trigger is much better than it was on round #1. Only thing I plan to do is put a CTC laserguard on it to help in a panic situation.
M&P shield owners please chime in
- Thread starter ACR1010
- Start date
thanks for all the advice and the links. i never really thought about the prosecution taking the gun and looking into it. trigger kits r not illegal right ?
im going to put a couple hundred more rounds in her to see if it clears up. i did see online that theres machining marks that r causing trigger to feel crunchy. also did see on youtube quite a few people complaining about the trigger. im not about to take apart a band new gun yet.
thanks for all the links.
im going to put a couple hundred more rounds in her to see if it clears up. i did see online that theres machining marks that r causing trigger to feel crunchy. also did see on youtube quite a few people complaining about the trigger. im not about to take apart a band new gun yet.
thanks for all the links.
Trigger kits can be illegal if you lighten the pull below what your state mandates, or is that only for manufacturers? Kind of like removing the blocker in a magazine in New York so it carries 10 rounds instead of 7.
You don't have to take your gun apart to stone off those rasping machine marks. The trigger bar is quite accessible with the slide off.
If you are getting the grinding trigger from the USB hole, you must remove the rear site, the spring and USB plunger, and the striker to polish the USB bore.
Mine was bad and had some kind of burr in the USB bore. I wish you could have felt how bad that trigger was. There isn't anyone here that would shoot my 45c and tell me to get used to it.... It was that bad.
I don't know if you are polishing your parts after 500 rounds with a rotten trigger or if you are building your finger muscles....
.
You don't have to take your gun apart to stone off those rasping machine marks. The trigger bar is quite accessible with the slide off.
If you are getting the grinding trigger from the USB hole, you must remove the rear site, the spring and USB plunger, and the striker to polish the USB bore.
Mine was bad and had some kind of burr in the USB bore. I wish you could have felt how bad that trigger was. There isn't anyone here that would shoot my 45c and tell me to get used to it.... It was that bad.
I don't know if you are polishing your parts after 500 rounds with a rotten trigger or if you are building your finger muscles....
.
thanks for ur input lost. i got to dry fire it a few times but that doesnt really do much. my brother in law has the 9mm shield and was praising it. i just went with his advice. overall i like the pistol. for a .40 the flip isnt that harsh and is very controllable. i love the way it fills my hand.
im not trying to lighten the trigger. i just wanna get rid of some of the over travel.
i kinda thought i was going crazy cause it seems like i was the only one with a issue about the trigger on here lol glad to see im not crazy lol
gonna call s&w tomorrow and see where i can take it to get it looked at
im not trying to lighten the trigger. i just wanna get rid of some of the over travel.
i kinda thought i was going crazy cause it seems like i was the only one with a issue about the trigger on here lol glad to see im not crazy lol
gonna call s&w tomorrow and see where i can take it to get it looked at
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SurgicalShark
Member
+1 for Apex Tactical
M&P 40Pro, 40-357-9 FS, 40-357-9 C, 40 Shield, SD40VE
All perfected with Apex Tactical.
M&P 40Pro, 40-357-9 FS, 40-357-9 C, 40 Shield, SD40VE
All perfected with Apex Tactical.
cb619
Member
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- Nov 22, 2013
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I've never had too many complaints on my shield's trigger. It does get a little smoother after some 500 rounds or so. Imo, I've never been fond of the idea of modding the internals of a carry gun too much as even trigger mods will be looked into in court if one was ever to use a handgun in self defense.
RedWings05
Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2013
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- 10
- Reaction score
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I put 300 rds thru my 9mm before the trigger wasnt gritty. Believe me you will re fall in love with ur .40 when it happens.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I wonder how much of the M&P trigger business is for real or just so much urban/internet legend. Guys read about it and assume they need a trigger job right out of the box. I transitioned from a 1911, which was/is apples and oranges from an M&P or any other striker fired pistol. I got used to the M&P trigger the way it was. That said, my Shield trigger is crisper than my FS, but since I don't EDC the full size I'm not gonna horse around with it. It puts rounds in the black as long as I can hold it on target. That's good enough for me.
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checkmyswag
Member
Shoot it a lot and it will polish itself. Or get the Apex carry trigger.
RichardDBeck
Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2013
- Messages
- 31
- Reaction score
- 13
My shield 9mm trigger SUCKED!!! it was around 8lbs and really gritty. Now it's about 4lbs with smooth take up and crisp break. I didn't modify the reset. I need to get the correct file to do that.
I do my own trigger jobs. It cost less and is really easy. If you screw up you can always buy one of the off the shelf kits people have listed above. Or you could take it to a professional gunsmith. There are lots of videos on Youtube that show how to do your own trigger job.
I do my own trigger jobs. It cost less and is really easy. If you screw up you can always buy one of the off the shelf kits people have listed above. Or you could take it to a professional gunsmith. There are lots of videos on Youtube that show how to do your own trigger job.
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This is really a good post that should be read. Please be aware that changing your trigger in your carry gun can be a no-no if you ever have to use it for self defense. I would leave my carry gun pretty much stock.
Let me say this one more time.
Some triggers coming from the factory are really bad. All you guys telling the OP that he should live with his trigger have no idea what his trigger is like. (And don't even try to compare a single action 1911 to a double action trigger, no comparison. )
My first 7 M&P's I lived with the triggers. They were a bit gritty. They were anywhere from 6lbs to 8.5lbs pull. They are defensive guns and I left them alone. They do smooth out after hundreds of dry fires and live fires.
I am repeating myself here, but my 45c trigger was a nightmare. A real train wreck. Gritty like it was full of sand. A hard pull at break that I couldn't even measure.
I thought either I'd sell it or try to improve it because I know that most M&Ps aren't as bad as this one.
I should have taken pictures of that trigger bar. Where it rides against the USB looked like a saw blade under a magnifying glass.
Is anyone saying I shouldn't stone that rough edge smooth? It would become smooth after 10,000 rounds of firing anyway.
The USB felt like it was full of sand. When I pushed the USB in the hole it scratched in and out. It was obvious there was a burr in the hole scraping on the plunger.
Is anyone saying I should leave a machining burr in the USB hole?
Repairing those two problems completely changed my trigger. Yes the pull is less because I'm not riding the USB over a metal burr anymore. And the take-up is as smooth as a pat of butter skating across a hot frying pan because I removed the saw-edge on the trigger bar.
Any one of you would have grabbed my 45c and pulled the trigger and said 'Oh man.... something's wrong with your gun.'
If it was my first M&P and I logged in here and asked what I should do, I keep reading that the consensus is to just shoot it and live with it.
Well, I'm telling the OP that not all M&Ps are the same, and I know for a fact that some have horrid triggers.
Now you can do whatever you are comfortable with, take it to a gunsmith, send it back to the factory, or look at your trigger bar under magnification and see if that's what is causing you trouble. A few minutes with a polishing stone and your trigger can go from crud to wow!
Let me know if I can help, there's a couple good videos I recommend from folks on this forum that show just what to do.
It is NOT difficult or involved. It really is just removing factory defects and cleaning things up.
One more thought: I agree a modified trigger could be fodder for a prosecutor. But what if you had to stand in court and tell the jury you weren't a very good marksman with your carry gun because the trigger was gritty and had an unmeasurable pull? That's probably just as feasible as defending the fact you polished two mating surfaces to make you a better marksman.
.
Some triggers coming from the factory are really bad. All you guys telling the OP that he should live with his trigger have no idea what his trigger is like. (And don't even try to compare a single action 1911 to a double action trigger, no comparison. )
My first 7 M&P's I lived with the triggers. They were a bit gritty. They were anywhere from 6lbs to 8.5lbs pull. They are defensive guns and I left them alone. They do smooth out after hundreds of dry fires and live fires.
I am repeating myself here, but my 45c trigger was a nightmare. A real train wreck. Gritty like it was full of sand. A hard pull at break that I couldn't even measure.
I thought either I'd sell it or try to improve it because I know that most M&Ps aren't as bad as this one.
I should have taken pictures of that trigger bar. Where it rides against the USB looked like a saw blade under a magnifying glass.
Is anyone saying I shouldn't stone that rough edge smooth? It would become smooth after 10,000 rounds of firing anyway.
The USB felt like it was full of sand. When I pushed the USB in the hole it scratched in and out. It was obvious there was a burr in the hole scraping on the plunger.
Is anyone saying I should leave a machining burr in the USB hole?
Repairing those two problems completely changed my trigger. Yes the pull is less because I'm not riding the USB over a metal burr anymore. And the take-up is as smooth as a pat of butter skating across a hot frying pan because I removed the saw-edge on the trigger bar.
Any one of you would have grabbed my 45c and pulled the trigger and said 'Oh man.... something's wrong with your gun.'
If it was my first M&P and I logged in here and asked what I should do, I keep reading that the consensus is to just shoot it and live with it.
Well, I'm telling the OP that not all M&Ps are the same, and I know for a fact that some have horrid triggers.
Now you can do whatever you are comfortable with, take it to a gunsmith, send it back to the factory, or look at your trigger bar under magnification and see if that's what is causing you trouble. A few minutes with a polishing stone and your trigger can go from crud to wow!
Let me know if I can help, there's a couple good videos I recommend from folks on this forum that show just what to do.
It is NOT difficult or involved. It really is just removing factory defects and cleaning things up.
One more thought: I agree a modified trigger could be fodder for a prosecutor. But what if you had to stand in court and tell the jury you weren't a very good marksman with your carry gun because the trigger was gritty and had an unmeasurable pull? That's probably just as feasible as defending the fact you polished two mating surfaces to make you a better marksman.
.
One other thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post. People complain about an 8 pound trigger pull, that is should be a lot less. Well I totally disagree for a defensive carry handgun.
Under the stress of an armed encounter, you are going to have ZERO problems in pressing an 8 pound trigger. And I actully like a heavier trigger pull for a defensive handgun. With a lighter trigger pull, under stress it may very well cause you to have a unintentional discharge.
In a CCW situation, you also have many things like your concealment garment, that can get into the triggger, and cause an unintentional discharge. I would much rather have a heavier trigger pull, and reduce the chance of an unintentional discharge.
Like I said earlier, if you are shooting your Shield in a match setting, then lighten the trigger. If not, you won't notice either the reset or the heavier trigger pull if you have to use it to defend your life.
Under the stress of an armed encounter, you are going to have ZERO problems in pressing an 8 pound trigger. And I actully like a heavier trigger pull for a defensive handgun. With a lighter trigger pull, under stress it may very well cause you to have a unintentional discharge.
In a CCW situation, you also have many things like your concealment garment, that can get into the triggger, and cause an unintentional discharge. I would much rather have a heavier trigger pull, and reduce the chance of an unintentional discharge.
Like I said earlier, if you are shooting your Shield in a match setting, then lighten the trigger. If not, you won't notice either the reset or the heavier trigger pull if you have to use it to defend your life.
i don't think anyone is talking about polishing to improve the trigger etc... i was merely saying an aftermarket trigger that reduces weight of the pull would be something that a DA would like to have in his corner if he/she wanted to prosecute someone. Just like its not a good idea to carry handloads with a large sticker that says "make my day" on the side of your gun. Just doesn't look good.
so i took my shield .40 to the range again today. put 100 rounds in it. after the first 50 my trigger finger was hurting. im like damn i must be a wussy. so i decided to ask the gun store if they had a tool where i can check how heavy the trigger pull is. they referred me to a gun shop not to far. i go and asked them if they could please check the weight of the trigger for me.
8.63 lbs!!! he even tried a mechanical one and showed 8.6. he said he could fix it with a trigger kit but since i just got the gun not to long ago to contact s&w and let them know.
8.63 lbs!!! he even tried a mechanical one and showed 8.6. he said he could fix it with a trigger kit but since i just got the gun not to long ago to contact s&w and let them know.
Please define USB. I have a feeling the S is for striker but cant figure out the U and B.Trigger kits can be illegal if you lighten the pull below what your state mandates, or is that only for manufacturers? Kind of like removing the blocker in a magazine in New York so it carries 10 rounds instead of 7.
You don't have to take your gun apart to stone off those rasping machine marks. The trigger bar is quite accessible with the slide off.
If you are getting the grinding trigger from the USB hole, you must remove the rear site, the spring and USB plunger, and the striker to polish the USB bore.
Mine was bad and had some kind of burr in the USB bore. I wish you could have felt how bad that trigger was. There isn't anyone here that would shoot my 45c and tell me to get used to it.... It was that bad.
I don't know if you are polishing your parts after 500 rounds with a rotten trigger or if you are building your finger muscles....
.
Common misunderstanding.
The "Ultimate Striker Block" is APEX's replacement part for the standard Striker Block that comes with the M&Ps.
DavidC77
Member
Us in Mass get the horrible 10+ Lb trigger.
We have to do trigger jobs on any S&W M&P's because the trigger sucks.
Here's a post that I did about the APEX Kit and what I have found.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-pistols/304498-apex-kits-what-i-have-found.html
.
We have to do trigger jobs on any S&W M&P's because the trigger sucks.
Here's a post that I did about the APEX Kit and what I have found.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-pistols/304498-apex-kits-what-i-have-found.html
.
Im at 350 rounds in the gun and I cant tell that the trigger isnt gonna get any better. When I get home im going to email s&w to see what I can do. Gun is advertised to have a 6.5 lb trigger +/- ...... what 2 lbs plus. I would like to deal with it but im not. I need something that works for me. Almost a 9 lbs trigger is not acceptable imo.
