M65 How to Remove Light Scratches
- Thread starter Irn-Bru
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Just some Flitz on a rag would amaze you.
Nix the steel wool. Stainless is soft and 'gummy' and you're liable to end up with fine pieces of steel wool embedded in the stainless, which will then discolor and rust.
75Vette
Member
Agreed. Use a fine grade sandpaper, 1000 or 2000 grit depending on how shiny you want to go, with a few drops of oil and follow up with Mother's or Flitz. Be careful and don't get carried away or you'll turn your gun into bling bling.
You will be amazed.I picked up a nickel Model 37 w/a few scratches. Using a soft cotton tee shirt and Mother's Mag Wheel Polish restored it to like new. Sitting in front of the TV and rubbing softly, use the polish sparingly you'll be surprised at the results.
scruffy
Member
I would go very slowly and check the area with any of the above methods. Looking at the photos (especially #3) the scratch appears to be a lot deeper than the surrounding factory "brushed" stainless. You could quickly polish out the factory finish making it shiny and still leave the scratch. It would then stand out more than it did before and the affected area may not match the rest of the barrel. Ask me how I learned this.
I have taken some pretty serious scratches out of a stainless gen 3 auto with red Scotchbrite pads. You can get a good approximation of the factory finish with them.
9mmsubgun-m11
Member
Nice gun! I was thinking fine scotchbrite and a little oil.
Go to a auto parts store and buy a sheet of Grey scotchbrite, this is normally found in the paint dept, this matches the finish of the brushed stainless on a 65,,,, if you want a chrome like finish Mothers Mag polish seems the best.
A grey sheet will last you a life time.
A grey sheet will last you a life time.
SweetMK
Member
Agreed. Use a fine grade sandpaper, 1000 or 2000 grit depending on how shiny you want to go, with a few drops of oil and follow up with Mother's or Flitz. Be careful and don't get carried away or you'll turn your gun into bling bling.
Get rid of the scratch with the 1000 or 2000 grit paper.
As with any sanding project, depending on the depth of the scratches, you might have to start with a coarser grit, but, probably not coarser then 400.
THEN,,, the finish will be too shiny,, hit it with the scotch brite gray ultra fine.
Too shiny is just a step towards perfection!!
Stainless steel guns are very difficult to photograph, so it's hard to tell you exactly how to proceed without seeing it in person. However, it looks to me as though the finish might need something a shade more aggressive than a polish such as Flitz or Mother's. The above suggestions of using a Scothbrite pads sound like the way to go. Keep in mind that they come in different "grades" like sandpaper. It's a little confusing as 3M makes pads in at least 3 shades of gray (not 50, thank goodness). The Light Gray (7448) is ultra fine, the finest of the gray pads, and Dark Gray (6448) is Light Duty and slightly more aggressive than the Light Gray. I would suggest going conservative with the Light Gray and see if that does the trick. If not, the Dark Gray would be the most aggressive I would go with. The trick here is to go SLOW, just a few strokes at a time, and check your work often. Go in the same direction as the buffing grain; pulling or pushing only. In other words, don't just start scrubbing away like you're going after a dirty frying pan. Also, avoid the Gray (7446) Blending, as it is far too rough, about 120-150 grit equivalent. There are definitely rewards for taking your time. Finally, though it's not required, before and after pics would be greatly appreciated.
Walter Rego
Member
Heed the others advice about using Scotchbrite. A light touch, a couple drops of oil, paying attention to the existing "grain" in the finish and following it will get you very acceptable results. It also helps to have a piece of clean cloth handy to wipe the gun off every few strokes to check the progress.
One more thing: I know some people like to give their stainless guns a high polish to make them look like nickel. It's their gun and they can do what they like. But, it is also the equivalent of any other refinish. As in "no original finish remaining" if it were to be described for sale.
One more thing: I know some people like to give their stainless guns a high polish to make them look like nickel. It's their gun and they can do what they like. But, it is also the equivalent of any other refinish. As in "no original finish remaining" if it were to be described for sale.
Kernel Crittenden
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
Hoppes is an aggressive chemical bore cleaner. It has scant lubricating properties. Synthetic wool and a good gun oil is what you want. 10w-30 would work fine in a pinch.
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TAC
Member
The scratches on the barrel, near the "Smith" name, are fairly nasty. However, for a quick, nice clean-up of most stainless guns, or as a follow-up after using more aggressive methods, I highly recommend Birchwood Casey Lead Remover, and Polishing Cloth! You'll end up with a finish that is very close to S&W factory finish.
It's great for cleaning the front of the cylinder, after a shooting session (it's intended purpose).
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Clea...e/Lead-Remover-and-Polishing-Cloth-6-x-9.aspx
It's great for cleaning the front of the cylinder, after a shooting session (it's intended purpose).
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Clea...e/Lead-Remover-and-Polishing-Cloth-6-x-9.aspx
gwpercle
Member
Flitz or Mothers Mag. Polish first , it's ok to have a few "character" marks ! It doesn't have to be polished to a brand new , never been used surface.
Try and stay away from harsh "sandpaper" and abrasives....more guns have been ruined with an over aggressive approach.
Gary
Try and stay away from harsh "sandpaper" and abrasives....more guns have been ruined with an over aggressive approach.
Gary
Young Gun
Member
I used brasso. It's crazy easy on the metal and keeps the nice satin finish.
ripvanwinkle
Member
I put a bad scratch on my new 686+. I was stupid and it pained me to see it. I have sanded a lot of wood and I know you can make a small problem into a much bigger glaring problem with the wrong approach. I started out with 400 grit wet/dry paper using a very limited stroke. It did very well and the scratch is not noticeable. I will follow up with a scotchbrite grey as suggested above to match the buffing from the factory.
