Making the leap

[nksmfamjp]

…
I think I'll either go 650 because that's what I'm learning to use now or the 550. Luckily I have a few months to learn while I accumulate components and learn even more from my friend.

I learned from my dad on his single stage setup.

I started on a Hornady LNL. The key is figuring out how to get your load setup quickly and perfectly. My machine will run quite consistently for 1000's of rounds as long as I setup correctly.

I would avoid the 550. Too easy to double charge a case and miss it.

 

[BabaBlueJay]

I learned from my dad on his single stage setup.

I started on a Hornady LNL. The key is figuring out how to get your load setup quickly and perfectly. My machine will run quite consistently for 1000's of rounds as long as I setup correctly.

I would avoid the 550. Too easy to double charge a case and miss it.

The square deal rotates itself would that be ok? I do agree double charge is something I'd like to avoid. Maybe I should just shell out for the 750 even if I don't need that type of capacity. In the long run IF I do get more guns that would probably be best.

 

[Paul in Nevada]

I do like his set up, I guess I can only get a 750 to be comparable to his now.

I'm torn now between the 550 and 750. I feel the 750 will be more similar to what I'm learning on, but the 550 might better suit my needs.

I bought the 750 instead of the 550 because I planned to load 9mm, 40, and 223 on it. If all I were going to load was 38/357 the 550 would be plenty.

But let me play devil's advocate in favor of the turret design here. I had a Lee Classic Turret for awhile and it was the mutt's nuts for 38/357. The only thing I disliked about it was the primer feed and the Auto Drum measure. The turret itself was great. With four die stations you can throw powder on the press and seat/crimp in separate steps which to me is the way to go. You can set it to auto-index with every pull of the handle or index manually by removing the index rod. The turrets are dirt cheap and fast to swap so you can leave complete cartridges set up and swap over in seconds. It's really a very smart machine if you don't mind feeding primers by hand (the primer feed system sucks). It's also smaller, lighter, and cheaper than most single stage presses. It will load cartridges up to 338 Lapua in length.

Or, the other end of the spectrum would be the Redding T7. Big, heavy, built like a tank. Seven die stations on removable tool heads but they are 6X the cost of the Lee turrets. You could have a four die 38/357 set, a two die rifle set, and still have room for an accessory die, all on one tool head. RCBS makes a turret that splits the difference with six die stations and optional indexing.

 

[BabaBlueJay]

I bought the 750 instead of the 550 because I planned to load 9mm, 40, and 223 on it. If all I were going to load was 38/357 the 550 would be plenty.

But let me play devil's advocate in favor of the turret design here. I had a Lee Classic Turret for awhile and it was the mutt's nuts for 38/357. The only thing I disliked about it was the primer feed and the Auto Drum measure. The turret itself was great. With four die stations you can throw powder on the press and seat/crimp in separate steps which to me is the way to go. You can set it to auto-index with every pull of the handle or index manually by removing the index rod. The turrets are dirt cheap and fast to swap so you can leave complete cartridges set up and swap over in seconds. It's really a very smart machine if you don't mind feeding primers by hand (the primer feed system sucks). It's also smaller, lighter, and cheaper than most single stage presses. It will load cartridges up to 338 Lapua in length.

Or, the other end of the spectrum would be the Redding T7. Big, heavy, built like a tank. Seven die stations on removable tool heads but they are 6X the cost of the Lee turrets. You could have a four die 38/357 set, a two die rifle set, and still have room for an accessory die, all on one tool head. RCBS makes a turret that splits the difference with six die stations and optional indexing.

I am going to go with the 750 because it is closest to what I am learning with, seems to be the most idiot-proof, and who knows I may get a 9mm glock someday because I really like them. It just gives me more options and in the end quality/versatility are worth the extra start up cost for a machine I plan to have for life. As some of you mentioned, I say I only want my revolver and a shotgun now, but when I end up getting a Glock or rifle I will be glad to be able to reload for those as well.

 

[gwpercle]

Thanks to everyone for the insight on my earlier post this year. I've done some reading recommended from you, and my friend is currently teaching me on his Dillon. I've decided to save my remaining 1000 rounds of brass and when I get down to 250 I'll be ordering my own Dillion. Until then I'll be slowly accumulating the components so I'm ready to go when that time comes. I'm so excited to be more self reliant doing my own 357 magnum loads. While I can still find 357 magnum, it's becoming more niche and at a buck a round or close to it I just felt now was the time to start relying on myself for my favorite round. I look forward to learning more from you all as I look into powder options and primers soon.

You know what comes next ....

About 4 days after I started reloading my own 357 mangnum / 38 Special ammo ... I realized Store Bought Bullets were not going to be cheap enough for my needs ... So ...

The first of many Bullet Moulds were bought and ...
... I jumped into the wonderful hobby of ... Bullet Making !

Gary

 

[Nevada Ed]

357 & 38 ammo is not cheap, now and the brass is just as bad.

Primers are another problem but if you can find these two items,
the rest is a lot easier to find to finish your loads.

I shoot a lot of lead 158 gr swc style bullets for target work , while some prefer copper or plated bullets if getting into higher fps loads.

110 & 125 JHP bullets will work for light target work, if you can find them at a good price.

Have fun and take it easy for the first few months and double check everything.

 

[BabaBlueJay]

357 & 38 ammo is not cheap, now and the brass is just as bad.

Primers are another problem but if you can find these two items,
the rest is a lot easier to find to finish your loads.

I shoot a lot of lead 158 gr swc style bullets for target work , while some prefer copper or plated bullets if getting into higher fps loads.

110 & 125 JHP bullets will work for light target work, if you can find them at a good price.

Have fun and take it easy for the first few months and double check everything.

I am saving my final 1,000 casings from my S&B/Norma to reload those. When those are no longer usable I will buy some empty brass, I hear you can reload the same brass up to as much as 20 times, is this correct? Also now that I am gathering components I was wondering whether stick or ball powder is better for a beginner and overall? Thanks in advance!

 

[Skeet 028]

I am saving my final 1,000 casings from my S&B/Norma to reload those. When those are no longer usable I will buy some empty brass, I hear you can reload the same brass up to as much as 20 times, is this correct? Also now that I am gathering components I was wondering whether stick or ball powder is better for a beginner and overall? Thanks in advance!

For pistol you won't really have to worry about stick powder. Most of your first loads will probably be mid range loads anyway. Gotta learn, right? Handgun powders are usually ball and flake. Some flake powders are not as consistent as ball powders. With a progressive start with ball powders if the load is what you are happy with. I still use a lot of 231/HP38. (same ball type powder)

 

[Nevada Ed]

I don't know about the other loaders but I try to use the 357 cases for top level loads, if needed
and use the 38 special for light target loads, since they are a little lower in price to buy.

However there are some that don't like to use the short 38 case in their 357 Magnum
due to the soot and wear to the inside of the cylinder.

20 light target loads might happen but Factory dup. loads with the high pressures
you might only get 4-9 reloads, depending on the case, if defective or
the PSI and how it is worked/crimped, that can shorten case life.

 

[310Pilot]

After reading all the posts in this thread to date, I would suggest that you purchase and read several good reloading manuals from cover to cover before deciding on any equipment to purchase. Please develop a thorough understanding of the entire process and the relationship of the various components involved before you make a potentially dangerous mistake. Reloading can be rewarding, but is best approached in baby steps, rather than just trying to start at a level beyond your knowledge and experience. Good luck and stay safe

 

[Paul105]

One last thought and then I'll go quietly.

You can avoid double charges by choosing a load where the powder charge takes up more than half the case (a double charge will spill over the side of the case). Won't prevent squibs but if paying attention when shooting squibs should be easily noticed.

Must have in my mind is a KMS press light set - avail for 650/750 and 550 (have them on both of my 550s).

here's a link for the 65/750

UFO 650 Reloading Press Light for Dillon XL650 & XL750
– KMS2

Paul