Malfunctioning S&W .38 Special.

[Michael Harless]

And you'd better know what you're doing as well.
Many people (most?) don't...

I'm one of those people. That's why I'm here.

 

[steelslaver]

Think about the complicated mechanism the basics of what was designed and put into production before 1900.
The cylinder which needs to turn and lock in place tobring the next charge into battery.. Placed on a tube that cleverly pivots in and out of the frame for quick reloads. Yoke held in place by a screw that also functions to keep the cover on. The mechanism that locks the yoke and cylinder into place in the frame also works as part of the ejection system. 2 long lasting coil springs, 3 counting the one under the barrel that powers the tooth that holds front of rod in place. Having one of these spring fail is unheard off. The ejector mechanism also operates as part of the cylinder rotation mechanism with its small teeth. These do wear. You may have a problem in normal use after 50-100,000 complete rotations of cylinder. Solution is simple replace the hand that engages them with a slightly wider one.

Hammer for primer ignition, rotates on a stud in frame and end of stud is supported by cover plate when in use to have a well supported pivot point. Bossed at base and on plate keep contact area small. Rivet mounted firing pin (hammer nose) allows it to be changed out if it ever breaks (very rare) and gives it slack to help it smoothly align to small hole in recoil shield that prevents the primer from moving into frame and hanging up.This small hole is also a hardened piece that is staked into the frame. The hammer has a notch on the bottom of its "foot" to engage triggers single action sear and another spot to engage the trigger during final movement of trigger in DA. The hammer also has a small spring powered toggle that is picked up by the trigger to start its initial movement in DA with better leverage and its length is adjustable by stoning to make handing it off in later stages. The foot of the hammer also engages the trigger to move it back to position for single action use if you cock the hammer using th spur. The hammer is powered by a simple leaf spring attached by a link that is actually similar to bicycle chain which last forever, even when used like chain saw chain. Delicate? Hardly. Other end of spring hooked into frame by a simple wide rounded end and tension by a screw in the frame. The trigger rotates on another frame stud with bosses and it has the hand rotate off it by a pin, the hand if made to move forward by a simple hair spring that resembles the all time simple cloths pin. The hand rides in a frame slot and engages the teeth in the cylinder to rotate it as trigger is moved. Easy to remove and replace if needed to worn timing in distant future. The front of the trigger also moves the cylinder stop down briefly so the cylinder can be turned as its hand rotates it. The cylinder stop cleverly has a slot where it rides on a stud, this allows it to trip off trigger easily and quickly so it is impossible to rotate the cylinder so fast it can over run the next chamber (5 shots in less than 1/2 second recorded with this mechanism) The stop is powered by a small coil spring in frame. The trigger is returned by a slide with a spring inside of it.A clever part of the slide is a hump on its top such that when the slide is home it is under a spot on the hammer. This will not allow the hammer to pivot forward so the firing pin can contact a primer as long as the trigger is in the home position. So you could carry all chambers loaded. Then just in case the gun is dropped from a height, lands on the hammer and breaks the hammer stud to overcome the hump system and make it fire a simple small arm was added that is moved by a pinon the trigger reset slide and its movement is controlled by a simple slot in cover plate. When trigger is home the end of this is between hammer and frame preventing primer contact IF the hammer stud is broken off.

To me its all pretty simple, EXTREMELY reliable and double safe. It is so well designed one guy fires 5 shots in less than 1/2 second and other guy has fired 6 shots reloaded and fired 6 more shots in less than 3 seconds
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLk1v5bSFPw[/ame]
If you think it is complicated or delicate go take a $2500 Colt Python apart. LMAO


Think about this an expert with a semi automatic 1911 pistol can't fire 5 rounds in 1/2 second and the record to empty a 16 round clip in a 40 cal semi auto XDM is 3.4 seconds, a miserable rate of 2.16 rounds per 1/2 second in comparison to the 5 from an old "overly complicated, delicate, failure prone" S&W 38 revolver designed well over 100 years ago. Interesting huh

 

[kbm6893]

I have ten left thumbs and I have torn down many a S&W revolver. With the right video and the proper screwdrivers, it's not hard at all. This one here is excellent.

[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WqmlI3FBvLE[/ame]

And S&W revolvers are not delicate. I wouldn't take the trigger or hammer apart because I never felt the need to. Also don't generally take the cylinder stop out because once everything else is out a good scrubbing with a solvent soaked toothbrush and it's clean as a whistle. I blast everything with non chlorinated brake cleaner after it's scrubbed down with Hoppes, apply a very thin lube to the parts, and reassemble.

 

[Michael Harless]

Is there some kind of commercially available rebuild kit for the double action mechanism?

I was looking on Amozon and didn't find Jack-!@#$

I know, I'm looking for an easy fix.

 

[ladder13]

This is not like building an atomic bomb.
Look at some videos and go slow. No reason to take the whole thing apart for now, especially if you feel uncomfortable.
Try a little cleaner inside the nooks and crannies.

If that doesn't work, and you feel overwhelmed, then take it to a gunsmith.

 

[Michael Harless]

You could watch this video and decide if you want to tackle this DIY.
Disassembly and Care of the S&W Revolver ~ Learn how to from a Factory Trained Armorer! - YouTube

I'm probably not going to DIY.

But the more I research, the more I appreciate the elegance of the S&W double action revolver.

 

[jjfitch]

Don't do it!

I'm probably not going to DIY.

But the more I research, the more I appreciate the elegance of the S&W double action revolver.

I can disassemble and reassemble a 1911 or S&W revolver in about 90 seconds but it requires tenacity and skill beyond most neophytes. But don't take it personally you're good a stuff I wouldn't attempt!

Several times a year I get guns that have been molested by people who should have never touched a firearm beyond loading and firing!

In this case I'd run the thing through my sonic cleaner for 30-60 minutes and flush with kerosene and then lube with light oil. The thing would be function tested for proper safe operation. If returned to S&W this is what they would do!

I would do this before removing the side plate especially an heirloom! Often times even though the side plate is removed using best practices the edges get a little distorted, raised edges!

Find a gunsmith that is willing to follow the above and you will be "golden"! Shouldn't cost over $30-$50!

Smiles,

 

[Catbacker88]

Screwdrivers are dangerous

I know I have the right tiny little screwdrivers, somewhere around here. I'd have to find them.

No, you almost certainly do not. Those advising you to take your revolver to a reputable gunsmith are absolutely correct.

 

[Catbacker88]

Screwdrivers are dangerous!

I know I have the right tiny little screwdrivers, somewhere around here. I'd have to find them.

No, you almost certainly do not. Those advising you to take your revolver to a reputable gunsmith are absolutely correct.

 

[steelslaver]

What you need is a hollow ground screw driver the fits the slot perfectly. Most screw drivers are of the tapered type and they will mess up the edges of the slot

 

[rays44]

I stopped myself from posting a dozen times because I do not want to sound offensive to the OP. On the contrary, a revolver that carries this kind of personal significance carries far more value than its worth in currency. I could certainly be wrong (I usually am) but I get the sense that the OP does not have the skills or tools to repair this revolver (right now). This is not a knock, but an observation and opinion. I apologize if it is not taken as the constructive criticism it is meant to be. I think it's an excellent choice to not treat it as a DIY project at this point. This is certainly the best place to come for the information you seek even if some old opinionated guy like me has to throw in his 2 cents. Best of luck with your endeavor.

 

[jjfitch]

We're on the same page..

I stopped myself from posting a dozen times because I do not want to sound offensive to the OP. On the contrary, a revolver that carries this kind of personal significance carries far more value than its worth in currency. I could certainly be wrong (I usually am) but I get the sense that the OP does not have the skills or tools to repair this revolver (right now). This is not a knock, but an observation and opinion. I apologize if it is not taken as the constructive criticism it is meant to be. I think it's an excellent choice to not treat it as a DIY project at this point. This is certainly the best place to come for the information you seek even if some old opinionated guy like me has to throw in his 2 cents. Best of luck with your endeavor.

See post #37!

Smiles,

 

[Michael Harless]

I second that about the proper screwdrivers. Even if they fit the slot, you don't want tapered blades, they will gall the top edge of the slot too easily. The screws are under moderate torque for their size, so they won't come loose from shooting, and you still need a rather large grip on a small blade to get them loose. Jeweler's drivers aren't the right kind.

So I need a whole new set of precision screwdrivers.

Que sera sera.

I like screwdrivers.

This is a perfect excuse....

I like the way you think, Hair Trigger.

 

[AlHunt]

Thanks for the advice.

However, I'm playing doctor with this patient. Primum non nocere.

Touch that firearm with anything but a hollow ground screwdriver and the "do no harm" part of your oath is out the window, Doc.

Lots of experienced advice here. My advice is to heed that advice.

 

[Michael Harless]

Just out of curiosity what is the relationship between the 19th amendment and this model gun?

I was mistaken.

The revolver is an icon of the Civil Rights Act and the 2nd amendment, not the 19th.

 

[Michael Harless]

Touch that firearm with anything but a hollow ground screwdriver and the "do no harm" part of your oath is out the window, Doc.

Lots of experienced advice here. My advice is to heed that advice.

Yep, probably.

One thing that I have noticed as that after I discovered the gun, I've searched everywhere and have not found a gun cleaning kit. I know with certainty that she had a gun cleaning kit because I distinctly remember her using it when I was a little kid.

And there's a speed loader missing too. She had 2 speed loaders and I can only find one.

 

[Michael Harless]

I don't trust this old ammunition. How do you properly and safely dispose of old 1970's era ammunition?

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

You could watch this video and decide if you want to tackle this DIY.
Disassembly and Care of the S&W Revolver ~ Learn how to from a Factory Trained Armorer! - YouTube

^This is the video anyone thinking about disassembling a S&W revolver should watch first^

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

I don't trust this old ammunition. How do you properly and safely dispose of old 1970's era ammunition?

No need to dispose of it. I have some ammo from the 60's for an old revolver that I still shoot once in awhile. It shoots just fine. But if you really want to get rid of it, send it to me. I'll pay postage.

 

[PeteC]

I don't trust this old ammunition. How do you properly and safely dispose of old 1970's era ammunition?

Simple: Sell it to a collector! Seriously: There are people who collect old ammo. Just make a listing in the classifieds.

 

[Michael Harless]

Simple: Sell it to a collector! Seriously: There are people who collect old ammo. Just make a listing in the classifieds.

That's interesting. I didn't know that old ammo was a collector's item.

I automatically viewed it as just an unnecessary safety hazard.

 

[lefty_jake]

I don't trust this old ammunition. How do you properly and safely dispose of old 1970's era ammunition?

That's interesting. I didn't know that old ammo was a collector's item.

I automatically viewed it as just an unnecessary safety hazard.

Under most circumstances, ammo from the 70's isn't old or collectible. It is just ammo. Unless we are talking about the 1870's. Then it really is collectible, and I probably wouldn't advise shooting it.

My rule of thumb for ammo that has been stored for a long time is that if it looks fine, then it probably is. This is especially true for ammo that has been stored in its box. If the ammo has been in a place where cardboard looks fine after 50 years, and the ammo shows no corrosion, then I would shoot it. Similarly, if the ammo is not very old, but the bullets look a little green and the box is crumbly and water stained, then I would not shoot the ammo, though it is still most likely to work.

 

[kbm6893]

I still shoot military surplus ammo from the 50's in my Garand's.

 

[growr]

ammo

I don't trust this old ammunition. How do you properly and safely dispose of old 1970's era ammunition?

Go fire them.....they WILL go bang!!

Randy