model 1 3rd issue

[iby]

I am having issues finding assembly numbers on my model 1 3rd issue.
It is fairly late production (?) 112xxx
They must be tiny or non-existent.
the gun does not appear to be messed with

 

[glowe]

Actually, they are usually not tiny, but wear and rust from black powder usage can make them illegible. First, check under the stocks since this location is protected. Once you find the letter or number you can look with magnification to see if any remnants of the stamping remain. Take a couple pictures and post them here. There is always the chance that your revolver is a patent infringement copy of a S&W so check the top of the barrel for patent and address stamping.

 

[mmaher94087]

The assembly number may be numbers, letters or a combination of both. As stated, they are under the stocks, stamped on the side of the frame, on the barrel end of the cylinder and on the breech end of the barrel.

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


The assembly codes are (as mentioned) usually a 2 or 3 letter/number
code stamped on the right lower grip frame (under the right-hand grip
panel), the front of the cylinder and the breech face of the barrel.

Here is a nice No 1 - 3rd Issue to see what typical assembly codes look like.


Cheers!
Webb

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

Here is a blue version. (The grip escutcheon turns on this one and
I haven't been able to remove the grips yet).


Cheers!
Webb

 

[iby]

model 1

Hi Webb
A spinning escutcheon is a bear!
Thanks for the pics.
I know what the assembly numbers should look like but I must need a magnifier .

 

[JSR III]

Not sure if these would work on a spinning escutcheon however might be worth a try. There is a plier type tool that is used to spread split ring fasteners. When you apply pressure to the handles it spreads at the tips instead of closing like normal pliers.

If you could get the tips inside the escutcheon and apply holding pressure to the cup you might be able to back out the screw without it turning. Perhaps a little penetrating oil on the screw tip the day before might loosen any gunk that was stopping the screw from turning and causing the escutcheon to turn.

Another option might be to take a needle and make a few tiny holes in the stock adjacent to the escutcheon and apply a small drop of epoxy glue. Allow to set up over night and it might be enough to hold it in place while you turn the screw. Again a little penetrating oil on the tip the day before to soften gunk on the threads. If concerned about the epoxy getting on the stock you could place some painter's or masking tape on first so the glue only goes into the small needle prick hole in the wood.

Just a couple of random thoughts and how I might attack a similar issue.

 

[gmborkovic]

Hey Webb, which side of the grips is spinning? Left or right?

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


The offending escutcheon is the right hand one (the threaded one).
If it was the other one, I don't think it would have posed a problem.

I have pondered the question and using a fine hypodermic needle,
I might get a little epoxy in around the escutcheon.

The snap ring pliers idea might work but I may not have enough
hands to do it but, thanks for the suggestions!


Cheers!
Webb

 

[gmborkovic]

Webb, hold on. Try this. Get a #2 pencil with a new eraser. Push the eraser against the threaded nut and turn the screw. Have you soaked the end of the screw yet? Be patience.

 

[mmaher94087]

Webb, remove the cylinder and hold the frame and barrel securely in a padded vise. I will assume that you've soaked the threads with a penetrating oil for a few days. Hold a red eraser that is on a pencil firmly against the offending escutcheon and remove the screw from the other side. The pencil eraser has enough friction to hold the side that spins.

Add: Obviously Mike and I were typing at the same time. Penetrating oil is your friend.

 

[iby]

Webb. In addition to the previous suggestions, cradle the pistol grip frame in soft but secure bedding and use a small dowel or chopstick and place it in the escutcheon with the oil and tap repeatedly with a hammer

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


I tried the pencil eraser idea last night but to no avail. They just
don't make the erasers tough enough (at least not on the two
pencils I tried).

So far, I haven't used any Kroil® yet because it would affect the
the epoxy bond between the escutcheon and the wood. Later,
I will mix up a little Acraglas® and use a hypodermic to inject a
little and wait and see.

Of course, once the epoxy is set, I will use some penetrating
oil on he threads.


Cheers!
Webb

 

[gmborkovic]

Webb, or the other alternative. Admit defeat and leave it alone.

 

[iby]

Webb

I got a NM3 with the spun escutcheon.
It took me a couple of weeks to get it

 

[gmborkovic]

Tenacity and patience do pay off. I guess there is a myriad of techniques left. Heat, cold, tapping, etc. Good luck to te OP.

 

[StrawHat]

When you apply the penetrating oil, only one drop! Right on the screw threads. Do NOT flood the area and soak where the epoxy is.

A good penetrant is ATF fluid.

Good luck!

Kevin