Model 10-6 Hammer Problem?
- Thread starter Sapper
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
The part that is broken is called the "Hammer Nose". It's a $10 part, and it's a fairly simple fix, requiring a punch, and a mallet.
In my experience with my own 10-6, not all hammer assemblies will "drop in" and fit exactly; I broke the nose on my 10-6, and just like you, I didn't want to mess with having to replace the nose (the rivet holding the nose in is fitted to the hole in the hammer, and that fitting must be undone to get the nose out, and then redone to keep it in there). So I ordered a complete hammer assembly...which turned out to be 0.005" too thick and would drag on the frame.
So I broke down and fixed it the proper way. What I learned helped when the Hammer Nose on my 686-1 broke a few months ago, and when it broke again last week.
Email Scott Green (username: scottgreen45, email: [email protected]). He usually has parts in-stock and should be able to help you out. Tell him you need a "pre-1988, non-spring-loaded K-frame hammer nose".
If that doesn't work, e-gunparts.com lists it in-stock for $20.50 + $10ish shipping: http://e-gunparts.com/product....chrProductSKU=315920
In my experience with my own 10-6, not all hammer assemblies will "drop in" and fit exactly; I broke the nose on my 10-6, and just like you, I didn't want to mess with having to replace the nose (the rivet holding the nose in is fitted to the hole in the hammer, and that fitting must be undone to get the nose out, and then redone to keep it in there). So I ordered a complete hammer assembly...which turned out to be 0.005" too thick and would drag on the frame.
So I broke down and fixed it the proper way. What I learned helped when the Hammer Nose on my 686-1 broke a few months ago, and when it broke again last week.
Email Scott Green (username: scottgreen45, email: [email protected]). He usually has parts in-stock and should be able to help you out. Tell him you need a "pre-1988, non-spring-loaded K-frame hammer nose".
If that doesn't work, e-gunparts.com lists it in-stock for $20.50 + $10ish shipping: http://e-gunparts.com/product....chrProductSKU=315920
how to fix it:
0: ensure your gun is unloaded
1: remove the grips
2: remove the two sideplate screws and the yoke screw and put them in a safe place, ensuring you know which goes in which hole (draw a picture of the sideplate on a piece of paper and stick each screw through the correct holes to keep them straight).
3: remove the sideplate by tapping on right side of the grip frame with a non-marring mallet (i.e. a nylon-tipped hammer). This uses the inertia of the sideplate to your advantage, as the frame will move sharply, but the sideplate will want to stay where it is, and so will work itself loose. DO NOT PRY UP THE SIDEPLATE WITH A SCREWDRIVER, as doing this will mar the edges of the frame and sideplate.
4. loosen the mainspring strain screw (front of the grip frame) enough to relieve the tension on the mainspring and remove the mainspring. Remove the hammer block.
5. remove the hammer assembly (you may have to work the trigger a bit to be able to lift the hammer out of the frame).
6. With a properly-fitting punch, punch out the hammer nose rivet. The broken hammer nose should come out now.
7. Install a new hammer nose and tap the rivet back into place. Use a center/cone punch to flare the rivet into the hole.
8. reassemble the gun, and test its functioning.
You could also use these steps to replace the whole hammer assembly, if you want...
0: ensure your gun is unloaded
1: remove the grips
2: remove the two sideplate screws and the yoke screw and put them in a safe place, ensuring you know which goes in which hole (draw a picture of the sideplate on a piece of paper and stick each screw through the correct holes to keep them straight).
3: remove the sideplate by tapping on right side of the grip frame with a non-marring mallet (i.e. a nylon-tipped hammer). This uses the inertia of the sideplate to your advantage, as the frame will move sharply, but the sideplate will want to stay where it is, and so will work itself loose. DO NOT PRY UP THE SIDEPLATE WITH A SCREWDRIVER, as doing this will mar the edges of the frame and sideplate.
4. loosen the mainspring strain screw (front of the grip frame) enough to relieve the tension on the mainspring and remove the mainspring. Remove the hammer block.
5. remove the hammer assembly (you may have to work the trigger a bit to be able to lift the hammer out of the frame).
6. With a properly-fitting punch, punch out the hammer nose rivet. The broken hammer nose should come out now.
7. Install a new hammer nose and tap the rivet back into place. Use a center/cone punch to flare the rivet into the hole.
8. reassemble the gun, and test its functioning.
You could also use these steps to replace the whole hammer assembly, if you want...
bountyhunter
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2002
- Messages
- 1,862
- Reaction score
- 464
I believe the easy way to lift out the hammer is to first pull the trigger all the way to the rear.
If the cylinder has been removed, you must manually pull the cylinder release all the way to the rear to be able to pull the trigger.
When the trigger is pulled, the hammer should lift up or go in with no problem.
