Model 10 Issue

Cooter Brown

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Years ago I bought a 10-8 police trade in for my sister as a house gun. She recently moved and got another gun and gave me back the 10-8.

I'm thinking about giving it to my other sister who recently expressed interest in a house gun. Prob. get her a shotgun as well but she likes handguns and shoots pretty well.

It's tight but there is an issue--the cylinder gap is tight to start with, and as you cycle the action the gap narrows on three cylinders. In other words the cylinder appears not to stay square to the back of the barrel as it rotates. It does not drag, but it's very close. I've shot it very little since I got it back but when I did it did not appear to shave lead.

Not sure if it was like that when I got it, but it's like that now.

Is this an issue with a slightly bent crane? What would be the process of fixing it? Is it worth it to fix it or is it OK to leave it as is? Is it something I could fix myself?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
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For the B-C gap to vary slightly as the cylinder rotates is common with S&W revolvers. This is because the cylinder face is cut in a blanking operation where the cylinder blanks are sawn to length and then finished by grinding instead of being lathe turned. As long as there is not excessive end-shake allowing the cylinder to drag on the breech face there isn't anything to "fix". Don't worry about it. The closer the B-C gap the more exaggerated the effect seems to be.

BTW, the average revolver has only one cylinder with six charge holes or chambers.
 
[/QUOTE]BTW, the average revolver has only one cylinder with six charge holes or chambers.[/QUOTE]


You mean them little holes where you put the bullets? That's what I get fer typin' so fast.

Thanks. My other revolvers don't seem to have the issue. The B/C gap is prob 3 thou to start with. No end shake to speak of. Guess I won't worry about it.
 
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If you are useing reloaded ammunition in the weapon keep an eye out for cylinder drag from leading up on the face of the cylinder as this will make the double action harder to pull and can cause you to spread your shot's. The yoke is out of alingment from what you say in your post and should only be fixed by a armorer.
Bill
 
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Model #10 problem

If you want to check the factory speck's on your model #10 get a feeler gauge and slide a .04 to a .08 between the rear of the forceing cone (barrel) and the cylinder. This is the normal gap for all Model # 10's and other's.

To do this make sure that the front of the cylinder is clan and free of any lead deposit's and that the rear of the barrel (forceing cone) is also clean.

Insert the feeler gauge between the forceing cone and cylinder face. Start with a .04 gauge. Slowley squeeze the hammer untill it drops ( you did make sure it is unloaded I hope ) do this for each of the charge holes or 6 time's. The cylinder should rotate without any drag at all. It is normal for this gap to open up some with wear use. It is not normal for it to clear a few charge holes and bind on others. If this happens (bind) then the yoke is most likely out of alingment and you will have to take it to a gunsmith for service.
Again factory specks are between 0.04 to 0.08

The rear gauge on a Model #10 is.062 to .064 This would be between the rear of the cylinder and the frame with the cylinder closed.
Bill
 
Most likely bent piece is the ejector rod or center pin. A bent crane won't cause a wobble, only an axis tilt.

Take the rod out and check on a good flat surface, same for the pin.

Someone has been doing the "Hollywood Flip".
 
Cooter, with the gun unloaded (not to sound petty just the safety nut in me) close the cylinder and cycle the action very slowly in single action. Real slow. When the hammer gets all the way back try to turn the cylinder by hand. If you hear a click at any point, you for sure have a bent ejector rod. I had an M & P .38 with the very same problem, but the tell tale sign is if you hear that click when cycling the gun in single action. If you don't hear that sound, don't worry about it.
 
SgtBill, I think you are one decimal point off. I think you meant .004" to .008" didn't you?

Regards, Bob
 
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