Model 10 Serial Number Range**UPDATE- Pics Added!**

kbm6893

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Saw one today at gunshop. Former court officer gun. Little blue loss but rust on sideplate. Probably spent 20 years in a holster. 4D83558. Just curious. It's a 10-6 with a pinned barrel. He wants $200. I have other K frames but a beater 10 might not be a bad addition.
 
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Saw one today at gunshop. Former court officer gun. Little blue loss but rust on sideplate. Probably spent 20 years in a holster. 4D83558. Just curious. It's a 10-6 with a pinned barrel. He wants $200. I have other K frames but a beater 10 might not be a bad addition.

Ship date looks like sometime in 1979 . . . others may be able to get closer.

Any serviceable K-frame is likely worth $200.

Russ
 
Yeah I'd buy it too. And I'm not buying any guns these days. I know we haven't seen pictures but pretty sure you could make a good profit if you chose to sell it. And maybe look again at the "10-6" stamp. Sure it's not 10-8? That's more in line with that SN.
 
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I checked it out again today. Turns out it is a 10-8. Blued finish almost all there. Very little wear. Rust is more than the quick look I took yesterday. Side plate has most. Trigger guard little bit. On cylinder where the rounds go in a couple of flecks. Little bit on hammer. Some in channel right at the rear sight notch. Gun locks up in every chamber and very little forward and backward play in cylinder. No push off on hammer at all. Wonder what the insides look like?
 
For $200 with tight lock up and no push off, I'd buy it in a heartbeat if I wanted a Model 10. Three or four years ago I bought one of the Australian trade in 10-8s that Bud's sold. Similar cosmetic and mechanical condition at $269. My Aussie 10-8 is a great shooter and perfect as a trail companion. But I prefer the heavy barrel of the 10-& to the pencil barrel anyway.
 
Take the grips off and soak the gun in a thin fine oil such as Kroil. It penetrates and loosens up the rust, and then take paper towel and rub the surface well without rubbing too hard. This will likely remove a majority of the rust.
 
I took another look today. The rust is basically only on the right side. Like it never left a holster of a right handed shooter. Sideplate, trigger, hammer, rear sight. All rust on ride side majority. Tiny bit on the left but majority on right. Doesn't look deep like pitted. I dry fired it. Smooth as always. No push off. No wiggle in cylinder.

Where do you find Kroil and how long to soak it? I took a revolver apart years ago using a YouTube video. Not that hard. This is a gun I'd have to fully tear down.
 
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An alternative to soaking in Kroil (which is somewhat expensive) is to soak it in ATF. It will actually do a better job of dissolving the rust and is a lot less expensive. Leave it there for a week and then wipe off the rust with a soft clean cloth.

REMOVE THE STOCKS BEFORE SOAKING!
 
An alternative to soaking in Kroil (which is somewhat expensive) is to soak it in ATF. It will actually do a better job of dissolving the rust and is a lot less expensive. Leave it there for a week and then wipe off the rust with a soft clean cloth.

REMOVE THE STOCKS BEFORE SOAKING!

Automatic transmission. Fluid? And fully disassembled or fully assembled? The grips are kind of funky. I'd probably soak them in acetone overnight and then apply boiled linseed oil.
 
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I passed on it. The owner and I are friendly and he gets Model -0's in all the time. I had the money in my pocket but I opened the cylinder and there was more forward/back movement on the cylinder than any of my other guns. The other ones wiggle back and forth, but this one moved much more. I had the ATF all ready and was looking forward to a project, but I'm no gunsmith and the front to back wiggle scared me off. I bought a K-38 from this guy and it is 22 years older than this Model 10. It has barely any wiggle at all.
 
I may be wrong, but it seems to me that any front-to-back play when the cylinder is open is of little consequence. The critical play is when the cylinder is closed. I personally would not pass on something matching my description. Anyone with the right answer, please correct me!
 
I changed my mind and went back and got it. $217 out the door. Totally stripped it down and the whole thing is soaking in automatic transmission fluid. Sideplate rust was there. Trigger and hammer. Backside of the cylinder bolt that is attached to the cylinder release. Rest of Frame inside clean. Rebound slide immaculate. Disassembled cylinder. Grips are soaking in acetone right now. I'll take them out tomorrow. Boiled linseed oil on them when they're done. ATF bath for at least a week. Maybe take it out next weekend. Detail clean and lube and back together.

Blue loss very little. Like 95% or better remain.
 
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