The recessed cylinder will work. Both my J&G Smolt and Pinto 13 are running recessed cylinders and the yoke don't matter as long as your cylinder has the gas ring on it. You can use the model 10's original yoke. I never changed the yoke on any of mine.
To use a recessed cylinder in a non recessed frame you must use a fine fire and carefully file back the frame lug about .06. I your real steady you can do it with a dreaded Dremel tool. But, I recommend a file that has been safes on the edge and some duct tape on the frame nearby. The other option is to turn a ledge on the rear of the cylinder to clearance the lug.
Any cylinder change may need some fitting besides the lug. Even with its own yoke there is no guarantee your yoke and cylinder will fit right in another K frame. Sometimes the window width is a bit different and the yoke tube needs shimmed or trimmed. You ejector rod might be a tiny bit long and hit the barrel lug on the barrel especially if the barrel is changed. Sometimes it all goes righ together perfect, sometimes everything is just a bit off and you have to fiddle around to get it all right.
I have a couple recessed 45 colt cylinders made by reaming recessed 44 mag cylinders and filing back the lug
You can buy new lugs from Midway, but I am sure they are a fitted part. You remove the side plate, support the frame around lug and then locate the pinon inside frame drive it out. Tap in new lug and stake it in place.
You also do not need to mill the sides flat to get rid of the markings. Just take a small smooth faced hammer (say 4oz) and tap the markings for a bit. They were put in by displacing metal NOT metal removal, so the idea is to cause some to move back. This tapping will not remove all the markings, just some. Then I take the barrel to my industrial belt grinder and using what is called a slack belt, where there is about 8" of unbacked up belt between 2 2" wheels, running a 400 grit belt I run the side of the barrel from muzzle to just past the marking moving it back and forth and rolling it a bit (not quite till the rib or ejector lug touches the belt) until the roll marks are gone. The belt set up this way curves to the surface of the barrel and blends to the contour. I finish with a few passes on a 800 grit belt. On the gun where I made a 6" K22 barrel into a 327 Federal, I only removed the markings from the side marked 22lr ctg. You can't tell it looks any different than the S&W marked side.
It is the same way I get rid off the import marks in front of the trigger guard.
Look in front of trigger on this J&G frame that is now a recessed 357 mag running a 4" Python barrel and adjustable sights.