lppd4
Member
I agree 19 for carry alot shoot a little and the 27 5" if you want to go first class
Model 27 or Model 19 ?
- Thread starter huntolive
- Start date
TheHobbyist
Member
Cool post. Thank you.
Fellow hunter here and I generally use either a Model 29-2 or -3 or a Model 27-2. I don't think you could really go wrong, but for me personally, I like the N frame a touch more. It is up to you on preference. I have a good long-time friend that is a huge fan of the 19 and basically just collects and uses them for everything.
I hope the following will help or ease the 'mindset' and is just my opinion and worth the price you paid for it, but: Consider getting an older 27. Pay for it now and don't look back. Use the darn thing and don't worry about wear, this is now just a tool to use for hunting (like any other hunting gun).
When you get bluing loss, just laugh and say who cares. As long as you take good mechanical condition of the tool, have comfort with hitting the target reliably at 25, 50 or 75 yards...just run with it. You can always touch up the bluing if you really want; for yourself only, as it is not a gun 'for sale'.
Hope I was articulate enough with the thought process. Basically, a hunting gun is a hunting gun and any dings, knicks or scratches are just a part of it. Most important to enjoy your time safely in the woods and make memories and hopefully get rewarded with good food that you can share with family and friends.
Best to you and yours, TH.
Fellow hunter here and I generally use either a Model 29-2 or -3 or a Model 27-2. I don't think you could really go wrong, but for me personally, I like the N frame a touch more. It is up to you on preference. I have a good long-time friend that is a huge fan of the 19 and basically just collects and uses them for everything.
I hope the following will help or ease the 'mindset' and is just my opinion and worth the price you paid for it, but: Consider getting an older 27. Pay for it now and don't look back. Use the darn thing and don't worry about wear, this is now just a tool to use for hunting (like any other hunting gun).
When you get bluing loss, just laugh and say who cares. As long as you take good mechanical condition of the tool, have comfort with hitting the target reliably at 25, 50 or 75 yards...just run with it. You can always touch up the bluing if you really want; for yourself only, as it is not a gun 'for sale'.
Hope I was articulate enough with the thought process. Basically, a hunting gun is a hunting gun and any dings, knicks or scratches are just a part of it. Most important to enjoy your time safely in the woods and make memories and hopefully get rewarded with good food that you can share with family and friends.
Best to you and yours, TH.
Thanks hobbyist and everybody else and if I were to follow your logic though then I'd be better off to get a model 28 6 inch barrel
From what I understand mechanically an accuracy wise they are every bit as good as a model 27
Is that true?
But if I were going to do that I think I would just go ahead and get the new model 27 classic
I'll check the auction sites and gun shops and see if something comes my way
Maybe something I have to let find me especially given how insane the prices are in the market for Old model 27s right now
I cannot imagine that functionally a new model classic 27 is that much worse but then again it all the pens on how much I want that 5 inch barrel
From what I understand mechanically an accuracy wise they are every bit as good as a model 27
Is that true?
But if I were going to do that I think I would just go ahead and get the new model 27 classic
I'll check the auction sites and gun shops and see if something comes my way
Maybe something I have to let find me especially given how insane the prices are in the market for Old model 27s right now
I cannot imagine that functionally a new model classic 27 is that much worse but then again it all the pens on how much I want that 5 inch barrel
Engine49guy
Member
The only purpose built S&W .357 is the "L" frame..... period end of story.
When the round was first introduced in the 1930's S&W had to put it in the larger "N" frame (usually reserved for calibers starting with the number "4", such as .44, .45, .455 etc) because the K frame was not yet up to the task...
FF to 1955 when more modern heat treating technology allowed S&W to chamber the smaller "K" frame in .357 Magnum (btw the K frame was purpose built for calibers starting with the number "3" , .32, .38 etc).
In time they discovered that the K magnums Achilles heel was its forcing cone flat spot at the 6 o clock position was prone to cracking with light fast loads.
(IIRC the new K magnums have a different barrel frame design eliminating this weakness).
The "L" frame was purpose built to solve the K Magnum problem.
On the range the larger N frame cylinder spins up slower making it easier to control in DA IMO.
The K Magnum placed the power of the .357 in a much smaller package for ease of carry which is moot today since its now available in the much smaller J frame..
It's really all about what you prefer...
IMO the S&W .357 evolution high water mark was the 7 shot pre MIM, pre IL 686-4 , a close second is the pre IL 686-5 mountain gun.
When the round was first introduced in the 1930's S&W had to put it in the larger "N" frame (usually reserved for calibers starting with the number "4", such as .44, .45, .455 etc) because the K frame was not yet up to the task...
FF to 1955 when more modern heat treating technology allowed S&W to chamber the smaller "K" frame in .357 Magnum (btw the K frame was purpose built for calibers starting with the number "3" , .32, .38 etc).
In time they discovered that the K magnums Achilles heel was its forcing cone flat spot at the 6 o clock position was prone to cracking with light fast loads.
(IIRC the new K magnums have a different barrel frame design eliminating this weakness).
The "L" frame was purpose built to solve the K Magnum problem.
On the range the larger N frame cylinder spins up slower making it easier to control in DA IMO.
The K Magnum placed the power of the .357 in a much smaller package for ease of carry which is moot today since its now available in the much smaller J frame..
It's really all about what you prefer...
IMO the S&W .357 evolution high water mark was the 7 shot pre MIM, pre IL 686-4 , a close second is the pre IL 686-5 mountain gun.
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The Model 28 was an "economy" version of the Model 27. Mechanically and functionally, they are identical. The Model 28 was not available in the wide array of barrel lengths like the Model 27, did not have a highly polished blue or nickel finish, but was satin blue, did not have the checkering on the top strap, and the front sight was always the Baughman ramp. Target trigger, target hammer, and target stops were extra cost options on the Model 28.
bananaman
Member
kas9412
Member
I have models 19,66,327 trr8, and a pre-27. I have longer fingers, so I find that I shoot the 27's better because my trigger finger is better positioned. Both the 327 trr8 and the pre-27 have five inch barrels which is my favorite, and of course, the trr8 comes with a rail, on which I have placed a red dot, that I need due to OGS (Old Geezer Syndrome).
So the 327 trr8 has become my favorite .38./357 shooter . I also love the pre-27, primarily because it is a birth year gun gun for me. It is in great shape so I don't shoot it very often, but typically around our birthday! Good luck with your decision...
kas
So the 327 trr8 has become my favorite .38./357 shooter . I also love the pre-27, primarily because it is a birth year gun gun for me. It is in great shape so I don't shoot it very often, but typically around our birthday! Good luck with your decision...
kas
I never had much luck searching for a particular gun. I usually just buy something that comes along and peaks my interest at that time. I do own 3 pre Model 27s and really like them. None are perfect by any standard but are fun to shoot. I guess I'm saying don't limit yourself, buy what feels right when the opportunity presents itself.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
Choices too many choices. I like the 6" barrels in m27-2 blue, the m27-2 nickel. The m28/m28-2 in blue. Grab what you can for the right price. Grab what ever shows up. Life's too short.
I'm not going to try to tell you what to get, I just wanted to say I'm pretty fond of my "Classic" Model 19-9. That's a fine shooting gun.
If you want to shoot a .357 a lot I wouldn't get a model 19. I have several and don't think of them as a good platform for a .357. They're improved K frames and not much more. They make excellent revolvers for 38 spl or reduced .357 loads (38 spl plus P) however. Nothing wrong with that. The loads in my Hornady manual show 800-1100 fps depending on the bullet weight.
My idea of a proper .357 is something like an L or N frame.
Having said that my old model 19's are beauties and accurate like a laser. I've had them a long time and still my favorite S&W revolvers. I have others.
My idea of a proper .357 is something like an L or N frame.
Having said that my old model 19's are beauties and accurate like a laser. I've had them a long time and still my favorite S&W revolvers. I have others.
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michael1000
US Veteran
I am a K frame guy. shoot 357 some, but not all the time. 4 inch barrels are a good, all around size. if you want a healthier chassis, use an N frame. blue, stainless or nickle is a personal choice. just shoot the thing and have fun (that's what it's all about).
TheHobbyist
Member
@OP, Sorry I have been swamped with work unfortunately and just had a chance to review.
The Model 28 is an excellent choice. I currently have one NIB 5-screw and a shooter. One of my favorites.
Opinions vary for a number of reasons but there is nothing 'wrong' with a modern 'Classic' line option and my opinion would be to buy with confidence. This hobby is an education and I'd encourage you to visit a large distributor in your area for the new or 'Classic' lines and check the ergonomics for yourself. Even better if you have a friend who may be able to help locally and the two of you can go to the range together.
The Model 28 is an excellent choice. I currently have one NIB 5-screw and a shooter. One of my favorites.
Opinions vary for a number of reasons but there is nothing 'wrong' with a modern 'Classic' line option and my opinion would be to buy with confidence. This hobby is an education and I'd encourage you to visit a large distributor in your area for the new or 'Classic' lines and check the ergonomics for yourself. Even better if you have a friend who may be able to help locally and the two of you can go to the range together.
S&W-Keeper
Member
Hard to pick. I have 6 of both.It is like picking your favorite grandchild.
DeplorabusUnum
Member
Both is better
I have a 27-2 5" and a model 19-4 6". I love them both. If you're going to shoot mainly 38 Sp loads the model 19 is a very nice revolver. I enjoy shooting that revolver more than my model 66 with 2 3/4" barrel. If you have smaller hands like I do, the K frames stocks are an easier fit.
However, if you want to shoot lots of .357, the model 27 is the way to go, IMO. It's more pleasant to shoot magnum loads with. Mine has some modified stocks on it that are smaller than typical N frame stocks. For me that makes a huge difference. If I could only have one, it would be the model 27, hands down. I also like the balance of the 5" barrel. It just feels right. But like the title says, "both is better".
I have a 27-2 5" and a model 19-4 6". I love them both. If you're going to shoot mainly 38 Sp loads the model 19 is a very nice revolver. I enjoy shooting that revolver more than my model 66 with 2 3/4" barrel. If you have smaller hands like I do, the K frames stocks are an easier fit.
However, if you want to shoot lots of .357, the model 27 is the way to go, IMO. It's more pleasant to shoot magnum loads with. Mine has some modified stocks on it that are smaller than typical N frame stocks. For me that makes a huge difference. If I could only have one, it would be the model 27, hands down. I also like the balance of the 5" barrel. It just feels right. But like the title says, "both is better".
