Model 29-2 timing issues- seeking help. UPDATE: Fixed it plus a few pics

[ColumbusJBR]

Hello all,

I just picked up a 29-2 off of GB. Aside from some minor blemishes to the finish it seems fine, except for a timing issue. While dry firing, I noticed that if you pull the trigger double action quickly, or manually cock the hammer hard, the cylinder on occasion will jump too far and half skip a chamber. Seems like the cylinder stop (part that protrudes from bottom of frame) doesn’t always fully engage the cylinder notch.

I haven’t dove too deep into this yet, but could this be as simple as a detail strip and deep clean, or should I consider swapping some springs?

I saw this, for example Smith & Wesson J/K/L/N/X-Frame Cylinder Stop Spring: MGW

Wondering if that may help remedy it, curious on any input. I’m not afraid to tear the gun apart, certainly not my first rodeo w/ gunsmithing. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[ColumbusJBR]

And I’ll certainly post some pics once I’ve got it cleaned up. It’s a 6.5” nickel w/ TH, TT, TG. May look for some new stocks for it eventually, TBD. Just wanna shoot it first!

 

[austintexas]

As you have guessed it's probably a weak spring or dirty. Clean first and if that doesn't fix it, a new spring or call and see if it is still under S&W lifetime warranty and send it back to the mother ship. N frame cylinders are pretty heavy and on fast double action they pick up speed and if the spring on the cylinder stop is week or dirty the bolt gets slow and skips.
SWCA 892

 

[jkmo]

Cylinder stop spring or dirty for sure. Unless cylinder stop is buggered.

 

[robertrwalsh]

I bought my Dirty Harry Special brand new. It had one cylinder bore that was off. Turned out the cylinder had a flaw in the machining so it was like a half ramp machined on the wrong side of the notch as well as the full ramp on the correct side. Don't know how that got past QC. It had to go back for a new cylinder. Pissed me off at the time. Dirt or crud in the notch is a FAR MORE LIIKELY explanation.

 

[hemiram]

One of my 28-2's was really dirty and if the trigger was pulled rapidly, it would skip. A LOT of crud inside. I'm guessing since it was new, back in
'76-77. The hard part was getting the sideplate off. It didn't want to come, but finally did when I flooded the innards with CLP. That gunk was like glue.

 

[stansdds]

First guess, the cylinder stop is not dropping into the stop notches correctly. This could just be a build up of oil and gun shot residue. It could also be a worn or damaged stop spring. First thing to do is a very thorough cleaning. You might get away with a spray can cleaning, but to really see what's inside, you need to remove the side plate. If you don't know how to do this correctly and what things should look like inside, then I recommend seeking the help of a gunsmith who is well versed in S&W revolvers or even contacting S&W. It would not be covered under warranty service, but they will service and repair products as long as they have the correct replacement parts.

 

[Pisgah]

My 29-2 had the same problem when I bought it 20+ years back. An extra-power cylinder stop spring was installed, and the problem has never recurred.

 

[ColumbusJBR]

Thanks all for the replies. I’ve got a new Wolff XP cylinder stop spring on the way, along w/ 2 of their mainspring/rebound spring kits (I’ve got an L frame that could use a tube-up). I’ll report back once it gets a bath and some new guts. Thanks again for the helpful info.

 

[ColumbusJBR]

Update: I ordered an extra power cylinder stop spring from Wolff, along with some fresh trigger rebound and main springs, and got to tearing it apart. I’ve torn apart plenty of guns but never a Smith so I was a little intimidated, but it’s really not that bad. I will say that getting that extra power (read: longer) cylinder stop spring wedged in there was a PITA. Need lots of light, tiny picks, lots of patience and a little luck but I got it in there. Happy to say the cylinder no longer skips so I think I’m in the clear.

What was pleasantly surprising was how dang clean the inside was. Given the age and previous bolt problems I was expecting a bunch of crud in there, but it was damn near spotless.

I do think I’ll spring for some new stocks, but that’s for another day. Here are a few pics of my 1st Model 29. Thanks all for the help!

 

[ColumbusJBR]

Can anyone recommend the correct part number, or at least size for a replacement rear sight assembly? This one isn’t trashed but a bit bent up. Hardly affects function but it’s bugging me. I’m seeing so many variants online it’s hard to determine what would work. Model 29-2 6.5”. Thanks!

 

[gmarshall99]

Numrich may have one for you. Tell them for your model no, and whether the frame is cut for a round front sight or square front.

 

[steelslaver]

Is the rear sight body beat up or just the sight blade? You can buy just the blade. On a 29-2 you need the old square front on the sights tang, also measure from elevation screw to tang screw to get that part correct as they are not all the same

 

[muddocktor]

Beautiful shiny nickel 29-2 ColumbusJBR. I like shiny nickel too. I have that same exact model 29-2 myself. I did replace the target stocks with some target Culina cokes, which feel really comfortable to shoot with. I'll post up a couple of pics of mine with Culina cokes installed for you to look at to help you decide whether to replace the targets yours came with.

First up, I put a set of football Culina targets in Cocobolo wood.


Then I decided to get a set of speedloader cut Culina stocks, which is what it wears nowadays. This wood is Jatoba I believe.


John Culina is a real artist with his offerings in my opinion. And he is also a member of these forums too and is active here. His stocks are not cheap, but then quality and pride of workmanship really shows through his work.

 

[ColumbusJBR]

Unfortunately both the body and blade are a bit chewed up. Figure it’s probably easier to replace the whole assembly

 

[Tom Kent]

That is a beautiful revolver and I agree with your opinion of John Culina. His work is superb.

 

[muddocktor]

Yeah, it is, Tom. I believe I have John working on my tenth set of grips right now. They are supposed to be finished around the end of January or so. They are for my new Anaconda I got recently.