Model 36 Rebound Slide Pin Slightly Bent

rusty68

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I've got a no dash Model 36 that I've had for a few years now. Its definitely used but shoots well.

While taking it off to clean up the insides (I've done this a few times previously when I first got it/repair spring) I noticed the frame pin that holds the rebound spring in place was slightly bent backwards. I'm afraid I did this while trying to remove the rebound and spring (was somewhat more difficult this time around for some reason) or that it is slowly bending back with use as it's 60 plus years old.

Regardless it went back together no problem, though needed to tap the side plate back in (I think pin was just barely enough back to prevent easy hand fit, but not enough not to be tapped into place). Gun seems to function just fine, but my question here is how worried I should be about it snapping off now that it is clearly bending back slightly? Or if it functions is it a non-issue?
 
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The best thing to do is to gently tap it back forward so it will fit easily into the sideplate hole. Just that slight amount of movement is not likely to hurt anything. Remove the rebound slide and spring before trying to move it.
 
I tried the side plate with no internals and it fit. I put it back together before posting and got the slide plate back on with some light taps from a mallet.

The bend seems to be not so much to not allow side plate to go on, but it's still visually slightly bent. Gun try fires/functions fine so I'm tempted to not think about it but I figured I'd see what yall think
 
By tapping on the side plate you are slightly bending the stud just enough to line up with the hole in the side plate. As long as it is lined up and everything is back together and working, I’d personally say leave it be for now. Next time you have occasion to open the gun up, then I’d suggest following protocol designs advice above. As long as the stud is captured in the side plate hole it can’t go anywhere and might even tend to straighten itself out a bit under the recoil of firing the revolver.
 
The way to reseat the side plate is to start the top in first, the press the lower part down to make sure the hammer block is inside it's slot. The sideplate should go half/ most of the way flush. Then, install the sideplate screw that goes in the middle and the flat headed screw by the hammer and gently tighten. Do most of your work with the middle screw. I had a customer who managed to break the hammer stud trying to get the sideplate back on. (Bigger hammer?)
 
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I have a 586 that I sent to S&W for refinishing. They did a beautiful job on it.
When I got it back I decided to work on the action, so I did that and put a rod in the rebound slide spring for a trigger stop. I tried the action without the side plate and that was a mistake.
The rod was too long and I ended up bending the trigger stud.
When I tried to straighten it up, the stud broke.:eek:
I ended up drilling the stud out and made another one on my lathe, and installed it in the gun. The cold bluing I put on the stud doesn't come close to matching the excellent blue on gun, but it's ok as the stud is hidden by the grip.
 
You can do what you like, but I would never try to tap that post straight. It needs to be replaced. Also, I was taught by S&W to never pull the sideplate down by tightening the screws. Gently tap it into place so it is flush, then snug down the plate screws.
 
Thank you all for your replies. I have dried fired the gun w/snap caps a decent amount in the past week and it's still working fine. I'm just going to leave it alone (if it ain't broke, don't fix it, am I right haha?)

And next time I open it up, I will not run action without side plate on. Embarrassed to say I've done that with a-many a revolvers before and never noticed a problem. Not anymore.
 
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