Model 610-2 problem

[Izzydog]

As the title suggests, I have a S&W model 610-2, and I have a real problem with it. I have had issues with it binding up, can't pull the trigger, hammer locks up and cannot be cocked. I figured that the moon clips were pushing the cases firmly against the recoil shield, so I bought thinner moon clips, and had the same problem. With The cylinder empty, the action works flawlessly. During my last range session, I closely inspected the revolver, when the problem manifested, and discovered that the cylinder face is dragging against the forcing cone . There was absolutely no cylinder gap at all. So whats really happening is, when the gun is loaded, the rounds, and moon clip, push the cylinder forward against the forcing cone. Is this a common problem with the 610's, and how can I rectify the problem?

 

[OldChief]

Frankly, what I'd do to rectify that problem is contact S&W customer service and arrange to ship the revolver back to them. There is a certain range of space that is allowed between the rear of the cylinder and the frame (headspace) and the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. Obviously, one or both are off. The folks at the factory will know right away what the problem is and fix it.

 

[ken158]

Sounds like you have a bad case of end shake which can be caused by several things and repair can be extensive... Take the advice of OldChief and send it home.

 

[RGPM1A]

I have a 610 no dash that would occasionally bind as you describe. I found that it was the reloaded cases I was using were very slightly bulged (resizing die couldn't go down far enough on the case) at the base so they wouldn't completely chamber. The cylinder would close but wouldn't turn. Does it do this with reloads only or with factory ammo too? If only with reloads check the cases. If with factory ammo too the others who replied are probably right.

 

[Protocall_Design]

It's about a 15 minute fix to stretch the crane and fix the problem for someone with the knowledge and tools.

 

[Jamesatrange]

I have also had the same issue as RGPM1A where reloads don't seat nicely and cause binding. All the precision measurements come into play when something is slightly out of whack. Rule out the ammo and if that is fine send it in as Smith will fix it right for you.

 

[Izzydog]

An Update

I went to the range today on a hunch, with some new 10mm ammunition. I loaded 8 moon clips worth, with 10mm, and 1 with .40 S&W. I had no issues with the 10mm, except the action started feeling tight, and took a good bit more pressure to pull the trigger, but there were no malfunctions. When I shot the .40 the first round was good then the trigger seized up tight. So i then mixed a couple of moon clips with 10mm, with a couple .40 S&W mixed in. I noticed the the pistol became very tight. I also noticed that some of the 40's had pierced primers. My conclusion is that the 10's were headspacing on the case mouths, and properly held the rims against the recoil shield, the added pressure needed to pull the trigger, is due to the cases being pushed out of the chamber slightly. When the .40's are shot the rounds are not being properly headspaced, and under the recoil the cases are being pushed out again, but in an inconsistent manner, causing the rims to drag against the recoil shield. I noticed some faint scratches on the shield, that support this theory. As to the cylinder gap, it is there, but is smaller than any revolver I've ever seen. What do you think, am I nutty?

 

[RGVshooter]

Just as an afterthought but is the ejector rod loose? Double check to see if it can be turned by hand. If so then tighten it down and try it again but it sounds like you're gonna have to give S&W customer service a phone call. Have them check it out and if anythings out of spec they will fix it.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Are you shooting lead bullets? With the small cylinder gap, It sounds like there may be lead building up in the gap, causing the cylinder to drag on the back of the barrel, or too much endshake, causing the cylinder to drag on the back of the barrel. Look for drag marks on the front of the cylinder and back of the barrel. It can be hard to diagnose a problem like this without seeing the gun or knowing all the possible variables.

 

[jughed440]

Can't help you any, but please post pics of your 610.