Model 645 Take Down

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Empty the gun, remove the mag, pull the slide back till the the slide stop notch lines up with the slide stop cross pin and push the the slide stop out rom the off side. The guide rod/spring/barrel all come out from the bottom of the slide. Going together you need to hold down the three levers on each side of the hammer as you put the slide back on.
 
oh, and be careful w-that recoil spring...i got in a hurry once w-oily hands and my recoil spring/guide rod did some major damage to my stereo receiver
 
I recently purchased a 645 from the original owner. Its a great gun. I've shot it twice. After the 1st cleaning I had problems getting the slide on due to difficulties in depressing the levers near the hammer(firing pin safety block, etc.) I was finally able to get it on.

However, last night after a 2nd outing, when reassembling the slide, it stuck on the rails, right at the safety levers. The slide only moves about 1/8 inch in either direction. Nothing I tried worked to free the slide. The trigger has a wiggle, but no real movement. The hammer is now back in the cocked position. You can't fully insert a magazine either.

Does any one have any ideas, or is this headed to a gunsmith or back to S&W to cure?

I really like this gun, more than my newer Kimber .45cal. I appreciate any tips or advice. I don't have any pics now, but I could take some & post if that helps.

Thanks in advance!
 
After making sure there is no mag in the well, get a wooden ice cream stick. Lay the stick across the levers and push it/them down hard with your thumb, while pulling forward on the slide.

The slide should pull off. If it does not, using the stick and depressing what levers, or portion of the levers is showing, push BACKWARDS on the slide to see if it will now slip back on the frame properly. Hope this helps. Good luck! Regards 18DAI.
 
For some reason the 645's can really tick you off. I can do my 3rd gens with my eyes closed. The 645's have such tight tolerances it makes it difficult. My guide rod always gets hung up b4 it rests where it is supposed to when re-assembling. I finally figd out wiggling the guide rod side to side while gently pulling the slide rearward (with the ejector etc pushed down) the guide rod will pop into place. I used to get so pist I'd have to put it down and come back to it!!!
 
I'll try the ice cream stick method. It does have very tight tolerances, and is very difficult to get the levers to depress down deep enough to clear the bottom of the slide.

The manual from 20 yrs ago said nothing about the levers. Back then it was simplistic, basically, "...put the slide back on & reinsert the stop lever". Took me 20 mins. the 1st time to get it right.Then it took me operating the slide, reinserting the mag, & messing with it a few minutes to get the trigger to reset properly.

Thanks for the quick responses. Maybe it just needs some attention to be broken in more.
 
It's just one of those things that magically comes to you when you least expect it. Assembling a 1911 when you are new to it...wow...I threw my remote control against the wall once when I was new to it, I couldn't get the swinging link to line up w-the slide stop...now I can do it in the dark.
 
All the 3rd generation S&W all metal semi autos are temperamental when it comes to getting the slide back on the receiver. Some are just more temperamenmtal than others. It takes a lot of patience and firm constant pressure on all the three levers after letting the hammer down.
 
Well, after some additional persistence, I was able to depress the remaining lever & get the slide to go the rest of the way into position! Whew! It would not budge for a good while though. Thanks for the suggestion. I ended up using a 2" x 1/4" x 12" piece of oak trim that I had & it worked like a charm. Just stood it on the 1/4" side & it fit it perfectly.

I'm glad it finally gave in cause I hope to take it to the outdoor range tomorrow. I really like everything about this gun, the weight & feel, the trigger pull both DA & SA. And its so heavy that if you ever had to defend yourself with it & ran out of ammo/clips, you could beat someone silly with it!:D But yet with the single stack clip, its thin for a big gun.

Both times at the range, even though I've had multiple other guns with me, both times I took out my 645 & shot it, people noticed it. One guy the 1st time out came over & asked if he could look at it.

I just wish I could get a set of Crimson Trace grips for it, but their 1911 grips have wider set screws. Without rails either, I guess there's no hope for mounting any type of laser. That'd make it a perfect home defense gun for me. Heck, if a bad guy just saw you pointing that big Stainless Tank of a gun at him & then saw a laser dot on him too, he'd head for the hills for sure!
 
I guess I was just lucky. The first time I field stripped mine it came apart and I was able to put it right back together slick as a whistle. My Ruger Mark I..now that was a different story :).
 
Mel, read the manual, the position of the safety must be moved in the takedown process (unlike the 3rd gen pistols). I don't remember the drill but I remember reading it in there. Joe
 
The 645s tend to be a bit tight for the first 50 years or so. But what a gun! Accurate and built tank tough. When my agency first let us go to autos, I carried my 645 till I could go back to my BHP which was temprorarily disapproved for a couple of years. Heavy, but very reassuring, particularly after one has cleaned the targets in quals. With quality JHP ammo, or even hardball it was a one shot stopper. Also, when you hauled it out (called presentation these days) it was big enough to make a substantial impression, and rugged enough to go up side some BGs head if needed, and one did not have to worry about knocking it out of alignment or whatever.
I will NEVER sell mine.
 
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