N frame cylinder latch broke at the range. Cylinder won’t close. What’s up?

[Wyatt Burp]

I was shooting my Model. 24-3 the other day and all of a sudden there was no cylinder spring tension and the latch was in the forward position. I pulled the latch back feeling spring tension in that direction but the cylinder won’t close regardless the position of the latch. I’m fine with breaking down Colt SAAs but S&Ws are alien to me. Maybe because they never malfunctioned before. I have removed side plates before but haven’t yet here. I looked under the latch and it was embarrassingly dirty. Based on this minimal info what do you think it is? if I left out anything to give a clue please ask. I have a feeling it’s something simple to those who work on them. Thanks in advance, everyone.

 

[Protocall_Design]

It sounds like maybe the center pin spring in the cylinder broke, based on the information given. It's hard to say why the cylinder won't close, maybe debris under the extractor?

 

[Wyatt Burp]

It sounds like maybe the center pin spring in the cylinder broke, based on the information given. It's hard to say why the cylinder won't close, maybe debris under the extractor?

I compared it with my other 24-3 and I see nothing that is keeping the cylinder from locking up. It closes but then stops with a 1/16th” gap in the crane. Nothing is warped, the center pin retracts, and while cylinder forcing cone gap is very close, there’s no dragging there. the extractor seats in the cylinder normally. The extractor tip and spring loaded extractor housing part looks fine. The bolt moves as it should. I cannot see what’s stopping the cylinder from closing.

 

[Nightowl]

Could be unburned powder/debris under the extractor. Brush out the underside of the extractor and the extractor seat in the cylinder. I have had that happen and could not see anything, but a good brushing fixed it.

 

[Shotguncoach]

When I have a problem that I can't sort out, I break it down into component parts. Try removing the front sideplate screw and take out the yoke and cylinder. Remove the cylinder from the yoke and reinstall just the yoke. Does it close all the way by itself? If so, then the problem is somewhere in the cylinder assembly and probably related to your other problem.

One area that is hard to remember to check is the space between the top of the yoke and the flat underside of the barrel. Check there for obstructions.

Close up pictures from several angles would be helpful.........

 

[Wyatt Burp]

Bingo! Thank you, everyone. first I removed the cylinder and just put in the yoke and it worked fine. Then I scrubbed under the extractor and where it seats in the cylinder. It locks up like brand new. I cleaned those areas when I cleaned the gun after shooting. Amazing how when no unburned gunpowder is visible there and the extractor feels flush to the touch it is actually there enough to hang up the cylinder. And the cylinder release latch works now, too. Thanks, guys!

 

[USBP SW]

The only thing that makes sense based on all you checked may be that the yoke may be sprung/off center. If the yoke is not properly aligned the center pin will not drop into the frame and nothing will work.
I now see that the problem was resolved and my post was unnecessary. I'll leave my post in case it applies elsewhere.

 

[DRankin]

Old timey revolver shooters always had a toothbrush in their shirt pocket to address this exact issue. The more sophisticated ones did not put it back in the bathroom when they got home.

Maybe this has already been covered but it bears repeating.... always hold the revolver straight up and down when ejecting spent rounds and the crud (mostly) stays in the empty brass, goes to the ground and keeps the gun in the fight.

Conversely, for reloading, point it straight at the ground and hold it close into your body and gravity will help chamber the new rounds.

Can't resist. Someone once told me the toothbrush was invented in rural Alaska, otherwise it would have called a teethbrush.

Old Alaska Cop.