N Frame Trigger Job
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Protocall_Design
Vendor
Until something better comes along, you could order a Wilson Combat spring kit and change out 2 springs yourself.
bigggbbruce
Member
I changed my 625 springs with Wolff ribbed reduced power and a 14lb trigger return. Sweet. I've shot about 60 with 100% ignition. Nothing else needed for that one.
If you have ability to do it yourself give it a go.
If you have ability to do it yourself give it a go.
USBP SW
Member
Nothing tunes the action of a Smith & Wesson like shooting it. That's my opinion, all the polishing occurs exactly where it's needed and there's no unnecessary grinding/honing or accelerated wear. If you can't afford the ammo, get some snap caps and dry fire practice while watching tv, make sure it's unloaded or you'll be buying a new television.
Yes but the internals may need some grease or oil... and the rebound spring is oversprung... and easy to change out.
I have also noticed machine marks on the rebound slide and cylinder stop not to mention the window where the cylinder paw resides. With a stone you can take those out and not have excessive wear on the other parts that did not have any tool marks. No need to cycling the action 1000s of times. Simply cycle and fire it a bit and then pop the hood.. you will see the wear marks.
Invictus357
Member
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I sent two back to SW for the "Master Action Revolver Package". Was worth every penny. I thought they did a marvelous job.
ultratec00
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Seems most smiths from the factory come bone dry. Doesn't take much to smooth them up. Break them down, clean, and apply a good lube where needed. I prefer a good spring kit myself and will polish a few select areas.
Did you channel your inner Elvis?
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Nelson Ford
USBP SW
Member
Actually, I was a firearms instructor and was fortunate to be one of those rare individuals that learned from the mistakes of others. I used a true incident to warn others of the risks. The incident happened with a service firearm in an apartment complex, therefore, it was a reportable incident, requiring an investigation. Fortunately, the tv, the wall and a blemished career were the only casualties, the projectile did not penetrate the wall of the adjacent apartment.So how much did the new TV cost you?
I was just giving you crap. Reminded me of myself setting myself up for somebody to pick on.
Have a great day
Tom
Have a great day
Tom
USBP SW
Member
I know but before someone feels sympathetic and tries to sell me their old tv, I already have three hand-me-up tv's from my son.
You have a great day also, take care!
Steve
You might inquire at Custom Shop, Inc. in Hamilton, MT. I only bought some rare Colt factory grips from them, but liked what I saw from them.
lppd4
Member
You might try an aftermarket spring kit. I have used one a time or two they are easy to install. made the action noticeably lighter and I have had no ignition problems
Changing springs is not a "trigger Job" Yes, you can reduce trigger pull with a lighter rebound spring, Start changing mainsprings and you can end up with lite primer strikes.
Do not go by the first video! The strain screw is not an adjustment.! Do not pry off the side plate.
Shoot the gun for a while.
Do not go by the first video! The strain screw is not an adjustment.! Do not pry off the side plate.
Shoot the gun for a while.
Last edited:
crasig
Member
I lubed the works of my N frame S&W with W30 Mobil 1 - & the action improvement was noticeable. Stuff is Magic..
bigggbbruce
Member
Many of us are OLD. Just to operate my trigger finger is painful. Cleaning up machine work or reducing spring rates improves the feel and is done in an hour or two.
I put a Wolff ribbed mainspring in my 1971 model 10. It works fine but now has a ringing sound wnen shooting.
Amen brother! Correct on all points! DO NOT follow all instructions in that first video! NEVER pry open the side plate! You never have to. Simply tap on the grip frame with a rubber mallet, nylon tipped hammer, plastic screwdriver handle, etc while holding onto the frame or barrel. It will always come loose eventually no matter how tight the side plate; you may just have to strike the grip harder. I've worked on a lot of Smith revovers, and have never seen a case where the side plate didn't pop loose after 2-3 strikes from a rubber/plastic tipped mallet or plastic screwdriver handle.
Always bottom out the strain screw or it can eventually work its way loose and cause light strikes. If DA pull is too heavy, shorten the screw slightly. If too light, use a longer strain screw or insert a spent primer cup on the tip of the strain screw. Or use a set screw with Loc tite. A good minimum DA weight range for reliability in a S&W revolver is 7.5 - 8.5 lbs. Sometimes you can go a little lower, but I've found that always works well so far. Also, the guy in the video selected the 12# rebound spring. That works fine in many cases, but I have found I never have a need to go below the 13# spring, and in my experience, going below 13# rebound spring sometimes gives a sluggish trigger return. The 13# spring generally gives me around a 2 lb SA trigger pull but is as low as I want to go for trigger return reliability.
