In my neck of the woods the price difference between the S&W and Ruger is minimal. I am sure others on this forum will disagree but fit, finish and weight of a 4" 686 vs GP100 is very comparable. Hold and/or shoot both, the Ruger may surprise you.
Need Advice on which Revolver to buy.
- Thread starter RudyN
- Start date
In my neck of the woods the price difference between the S&W and Ruger is minimal. I am sure others on this forum will disagree but fit, finish and weight of a 4" 686 vs GP100 is very comparable. Hold and/or shoot both, the Ruger may surprise you.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
For a smaller in size I'd go with the ruger it will eat any stout load you feed it and want more. The next size up is the s&w N frame, she's a well balanced piece of machinery. I prefer the 6" barrel.
Double-O-Dave
US Veteran
Big Bill beat me to it for the Ruger recommendation. I have S&W revolvers chambered in .357 Magnum in K and L frame sizes, but my favorite .357 chambered revolver, and the one I think is best for all around use is my 4.0 inch barreled, stainless steel, Ruger Security Six. Mine is one of the Puerto Rico State Police trade ins that I bought cheap ($320.00 + tax) locally.
Good luck,
Dave
Good luck,
Dave
Attachments
drummer007
Member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2014
- Messages
- 158
- Reaction score
- 108
A 4" barreled 686+ (the + model is a 7 shot cylinder); preferably a 686-4 with forged parts and no lock.
Well, I went to my LGS and the price of a Ruger GP100 was $300.00 less than the 686 so I bought the GP100. Of course since this is California I have to wait 10 days to pick it up even though I already own enough guns to outfit a third world army. 
If things go ok, maybe by this summer I can go back and get a 686.
If things go ok, maybe by this summer I can go back and get a 686.I have a nice newer 586 with a 6" bbl that is very nice. It's a lock model, and (despite what some folks say about lock models) very nice. Very accurate, with adjustable sights. I have a stainless 681 no-dash (first version issued) which is probably a better outdoor knockaround gun, as it doesn't have adj. sights to get hung up/snagged in a holster or clothing, is made of stainless steel and is still accurate. Both of these are L frame guns, which are bigger than the standard K frame size , but smaller than the big N frame size.
My N frame .357 is an old Highway Patrolman from the 1950's, and even though it's been refinished and has non-original (but era appropriate) grips, it mostly has collector's interest to me. Being that L frame Smiths handle the .357 load so well, I've come to consider the N frame a little oversized for .357 use. Just my opinion.
So the 586 is kind of my target .357.
The 681 is my utility .357.
The HP is my collector .357.
Each has it's own use. Keep in mind, the L frame guns from my 681's era - early eighties - were recalled for a factory mod for the cylinder. You can still send them back for this.
My N frame .357 is an old Highway Patrolman from the 1950's, and even though it's been refinished and has non-original (but era appropriate) grips, it mostly has collector's interest to me. Being that L frame Smiths handle the .357 load so well, I've come to consider the N frame a little oversized for .357 use. Just my opinion.
So the 586 is kind of my target .357.
The 681 is my utility .357.
The HP is my collector .357.
Each has it's own use. Keep in mind, the L frame guns from my 681's era - early eighties - were recalled for a factory mod for the cylinder. You can still send them back for this.
Last edited:
TeaDub
Member
Well, I went to my LGS and the price of a Ruger GP100 was $300.00 less than the 686 so I bought the GP100. Of course since this is California I have to wait 10 days to pick it up even though I already own enough guns to outfit a third world army.
Congrats. The GP100 is a solid choice.
