Need help!best lubricant for aluminum frames?
- Thread starter mrmike7189
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Amen, brother. I use Frog Lube or any quality lubricant. I long past done with the lube-of-the-month club.
44wheelman
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Aluma Lube.... Worked great on the sliding door.
scoobysnacker
Member
I've tried a lot of different things, and can't really say one is better than the other.
Currently I'm using Ballistol for oil (for rubbing down most everything, and a drop or two here and there if it pivots), and a light film of Mobil 1 synthetic grease on the rails.
Ballistol seems to work well and is non-toxic; and the Mobil 1 grease is far less expensive than anything else I've come across per application.
Working great so far.
Currently I'm using Ballistol for oil (for rubbing down most everything, and a drop or two here and there if it pivots), and a light film of Mobil 1 synthetic grease on the rails.
Ballistol seems to work well and is non-toxic; and the Mobil 1 grease is far less expensive than anything else I've come across per application.
Working great so far.
amazingflapjack
US Veteran
Mob 1 and LSA
I read through a lot of the posts and did not see this recommendation. If it is a repeat, I apologize. I think Tetra Lube is the best. It comes in a variety of formats (densities). The oil is what I use most. The thicker (grease) is good for certain applications. You don't need a lot of it and it seems to last forever. The smell isn't overly pleasant, but worth the results. I have used it on hundreds of handguns and long guns with excellent results.
I'm with you. I use a dab of auto bearing grease because I have, in one small can, apparently a lifetime supply. But I dab it on the rails with a toothpick.
Cycle the slide a few times, wipe off the excess and it's good to go.
My old man, the world's greatest shade tree mechanic, told me "if it rotates, oil it. If it slides, grease it." Always thought this was pretty good advice. He never had problems with his cars. And they get a lot more use than my guns.
Honestly, I think we overthink gun lubes, both oils and grease.
Just my two cents.
Zebra War Wagon
Member
I bought a tube of white lithium grease and do exactly what CoronaDan does as stated in the previous post. My old man also preached the "oil for spinning things and grease for sliding things". When I get a new semi-auto I grease all moving parts well before shooting because of the break-in factor. This has always worked well as well as greasing older pistols. Subsequently, I have minimum wear anywhere on the pistol. I have seen alloy framed pistols that were NOT greased or oiled well and they always looked worn, well before their time.
What CoronaDan and Zebra War Wagon have both said!!
Lubriplate works fine too but I have had tremendous success at the range using lithium grease:
[ame="https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467551963&sr=1-4&keywords=lithium+grease"]Amazon.com: Permatex 80345 White Lithium Grease, 1.5 oz.: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61ZDHEUJpjS.@@AMEPARAM@@61ZDHEUJpjS[/ame]
Proper lubrication in the right places is especially important for alloy frames and slides to avoid "galling" (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling ) which actually happened to me with a Springfield Armory stainless steel 1911. This can also occur if the slide and frame are of different materials - steel frame, aluminum or alloy slide.
It hasn't been mentioned, but always keep that feed ramp cleaned and polished to avoid FTF problems.
Lubriplate works fine too but I have had tremendous success at the range using lithium grease:
[ame="https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467551963&sr=1-4&keywords=lithium+grease"]Amazon.com: Permatex 80345 White Lithium Grease, 1.5 oz.: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61ZDHEUJpjS.@@AMEPARAM@@61ZDHEUJpjS[/ame]
Proper lubrication in the right places is especially important for alloy frames and slides to avoid "galling" (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling ) which actually happened to me with a Springfield Armory stainless steel 1911. This can also occur if the slide and frame are of different materials - steel frame, aluminum or alloy slide.
It hasn't been mentioned, but always keep that feed ramp cleaned and polished to avoid FTF problems.
Last edited:
JJEH
Member
I use Royal Purple Synthetic Gun Oil and I love it.
scoobysnacker
Member
While there are a zillion different "gun" lubricant products, I've always thought that the best oils/greases would be something with a Mobil One or Royal Purple label (just gotta get the right viscosity). Companies like this are way ahead of the curve with oil technology, and the funny thing is, they will still be a lot cheaper than the "gun" products.
scoobysnacker
Member
Sorry, thread drift coming in this post. 
I think as long as you perform some maintenance on your gun (clean it, lube it where you're supposed to), and the gun was good in the first place, you're ok.
I have recently bought 2 guns from CDI Sales, both cheapos. CZ 75 made in '89, and a CZ99 (Zastava, not the Czech CZ) from around the same time period. Both seem to be Israeli surplus trade-ins. The CZ 75 is all steel with a paint job (I understand that they parkerized before painting); the CZ99 has a blued steel slide, chromed barrel, and alloy frame with some sort of paint on it.
The guns were both "ugly gun specials", all numbered parts were matches, they smelled like dirty engine oil, and they looked as though they were stored in a sand pit that was used to burn trash.
They also shot to point of aim, as well as I could with any other pistol I own.
To clean and lube them, I used 3 chemicals, based on what I learned online (and YMMV).
1) removed the grips (only things not metal), and sprayed them out with a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Amazing the amount of crud that ran free, and the guns looked clean afterwards. I'd seen this recommended in many forums, and the only warning has been "don't get it on plastic". Didn't hurt the finishes at all.
2) Cleaned as normal afterwards with Ballistol, and rubbed everything down with that. Seemed to slick and shine everything up. I use that because they claim it's non-toxic, and Hickok45 likes it.
3) Rubbed a film of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease on the rails, and other visual sliding surfaces. Really, really smoothed things up. Slides feel lighter, they glide. I've read at bobistheoilguy that this grease and Lubriplate are great for rails, and I couldn't find the lubriplate at my auto parts store. It's worked great on my pistols, and if/when I ever run out of the 14 oz tube, I might try the other brand.
4) another quick wipedown of the outside with ballistol on a rag, and then I tucked the pistols into ... cheap cigar boxes.
Re the cigar boxes- I liked the size, and actually went as far as emailing some PhD of Wood (honestly, something along those lines!) at University of Oregon.
He replied back that the cigar boxes are made of a certain type of cedar, and the wood actually dries the atmosphere out. He said cigar owners have to keep them humidified, or they become bone-dry... and if I wanted to use them for dry storage, then leave them inside (in the AC), open for a few days, and they will balance out to the atmosphere in the house. Which I have done.. and I find the guns I've placed inside remain as nice as I put them in.
I think as long as you perform some maintenance on your gun (clean it, lube it where you're supposed to), and the gun was good in the first place, you're ok.
I have recently bought 2 guns from CDI Sales, both cheapos. CZ 75 made in '89, and a CZ99 (Zastava, not the Czech CZ) from around the same time period. Both seem to be Israeli surplus trade-ins. The CZ 75 is all steel with a paint job (I understand that they parkerized before painting); the CZ99 has a blued steel slide, chromed barrel, and alloy frame with some sort of paint on it.
The guns were both "ugly gun specials", all numbered parts were matches, they smelled like dirty engine oil, and they looked as though they were stored in a sand pit that was used to burn trash.
They also shot to point of aim, as well as I could with any other pistol I own.
To clean and lube them, I used 3 chemicals, based on what I learned online (and YMMV).
1) removed the grips (only things not metal), and sprayed them out with a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Amazing the amount of crud that ran free, and the guns looked clean afterwards. I'd seen this recommended in many forums, and the only warning has been "don't get it on plastic". Didn't hurt the finishes at all.
2) Cleaned as normal afterwards with Ballistol, and rubbed everything down with that. Seemed to slick and shine everything up. I use that because they claim it's non-toxic, and Hickok45 likes it.
3) Rubbed a film of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease on the rails, and other visual sliding surfaces. Really, really smoothed things up. Slides feel lighter, they glide. I've read at bobistheoilguy that this grease and Lubriplate are great for rails, and I couldn't find the lubriplate at my auto parts store. It's worked great on my pistols, and if/when I ever run out of the 14 oz tube, I might try the other brand.
4) another quick wipedown of the outside with ballistol on a rag, and then I tucked the pistols into ... cheap cigar boxes.
Re the cigar boxes- I liked the size, and actually went as far as emailing some PhD of Wood (honestly, something along those lines!) at University of Oregon.
He replied back that the cigar boxes are made of a certain type of cedar, and the wood actually dries the atmosphere out. He said cigar owners have to keep them humidified, or they become bone-dry... and if I wanted to use them for dry storage, then leave them inside (in the AC), open for a few days, and they will balance out to the atmosphere in the house. Which I have done.. and I find the guns I've placed inside remain as nice as I put them in.
Earlier in this thread I made a recommendation for a product know as "Frog Lube". I had some given to me a year back and it seemed to work well. I did some more research into this product, and I have thrown the rest of mine in the garbage.
I have gone back to using Military red grease and LSA oil. This stuff as been used in every climate in blistering heat and freezing cold and it works
I have gone back to using Military red grease and LSA oil. This stuff as been used in every climate in blistering heat and freezing cold and it works
All of my manuals...
I have a 3rd Gen, a Shield and Kel tec. All of the instruction manuals say where to put oil. I do that and everything works fine. If oil is running out of your gun there's too much and you need to cut back, or just wipe it off.
I've heard, "If it slides, grease it, if it rotates, oil it." But I don't know where that adage came from or if there is any truth to it, at least regarding guns. I'm not saying grease is bad, just that the gun manufacturers specify oil and it should be adequate. And I know many firearms that require grease, just not mine.
I have a 3rd Gen, a Shield and Kel tec. All of the instruction manuals say where to put oil. I do that and everything works fine. If oil is running out of your gun there's too much and you need to cut back, or just wipe it off.
I've heard, "If it slides, grease it, if it rotates, oil it." But I don't know where that adage came from or if there is any truth to it, at least regarding guns. I'm not saying grease is bad, just that the gun manufacturers specify oil and it should be adequate. And I know many firearms that require grease, just not mine.
Here's my $.02, which is about what it's worth.
Low friction parts like pivot points, springs and linkage get light oil. High friction points like frame rails, barrel bushings and locking lugs get light grease. Use of heavy grease may work in warm/hot climates but is an invitation to failure in cold climates, especially sub zero. That's why "light is right".
Brands don't matter much as long as they meet the above criteria.
Carry on.
Low friction parts like pivot points, springs and linkage get light oil. High friction points like frame rails, barrel bushings and locking lugs get light grease. Use of heavy grease may work in warm/hot climates but is an invitation to failure in cold climates, especially sub zero. That's why "light is right".
Brands don't matter much as long as they meet the above criteria.
Carry on.
gwpercle
Member
I bought a 4 oz. bottle of Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil , just to try . It cost $10.00 for a small bottle with a twist top .
I swear it looks , feels and smells just like Lucas Multi-Vehicle ATF, which costs $7.99 a quart!
I'm starting to wonder about all these high priced lubes, could some manufacturer's be making a quick buck on gun owner's with these "special " gun lubes ? I'm not so sure it's that much better than ATF...which is a great lube in itself.
Gary
I swear it looks , feels and smells just like Lucas Multi-Vehicle ATF, which costs $7.99 a quart!
I'm starting to wonder about all these high priced lubes, could some manufacturer's be making a quick buck on gun owner's with these "special " gun lubes ? I'm not so sure it's that much better than ATF...which is a great lube in itself.
Gary
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