SGT ROCK 11B
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FYI, everybody may not want to carry. JMHO
Need help choosing good 1st Revolver for a beginner..
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OP
Hey Guys, had a conversation with a co-worker yesterday and mentioned I am looking into revolvers. He said "Bravo" about time. His forte is 44 mag. revolvers, loves them. He did say great revolvers but not for me starting out. Since he knows the majority I shoot is 9mm. He did mention Charter Arms and also Taurus tracker. Any thoughts...
Lastly he told me to watch out for shavings, he explained the timing issue. I had no idea.
Lastly he told me to watch out for shavings, he explained the timing issue. I had no idea.
In the first posting, OP said "...primary use home defense possibly carry..."
Your friend is referring to shavings from a poorly timed gun. If not properly aligned with the forcing cone it will shave metal off and possibly spit it back in your face. While no brand is immune to this (my brother had a Smith with this issue but it was fixed) you are far more likely to have this problem with brands that do less QC. I had a Taurus, it worked fine, but the timing and quality on it were significantly inferior to my first Smith.
I realize it may be hard to scrape together the extra coin for a Smith but think about the long term. If you buy a Taurus and hate it (As I did) you will end up spending the money in losses from trade in and getting another gun.
A 38 special K Frame like a Model 14 could run you about 700$ but will be significantly better than any Taurus you will get. Taurus is fine but for the extra 200$ over decades of ownership the Smith will be worth it and then some.
Each and every chamber in the cylinder must line up with the barrel. If there is a timing problem, one or more chambers may be misaligned with the barrel. This will cause a sliver of bullet jacket or lead to fly off to the left or right when shooting, and could injure you or a bystander.
Regardless of whether a revolver's timing is off or if it's perfect, you will also get flames and hot gases coming out of the barrel/cylinder gap. So you should not use the thumbs forward grip when shooting a revolver. I shoot revolvers with my thumbs down.
OP
I "Thanked" him of course and as always "Learn something new everyday". Great old school guy..
SWOH
Member
And if you live on a budget?
SWOH
Member
I'll give a +1 to the M10 heavy barrel. Extremely versatile home defense, camping, fishing, hunting. You can load everything from snake shot to cowboy or full power 38s. Like buffalo bore +p outdoors. A 158grn Keith @1250fps puts out about 545ft lbs. If you do your part those 6 slugs should settle most things. If not you need a rifle.
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For shooting fun and HD, I would say an S&W model 10 hands down. I'd do a 4" barrel. If you want to carry it, maybe get a 3". One of my HD guns that is easy for both me and my wife to get to is a 4" model 10. But there are others...... 
There are plenty of lightly used model 10s out there that are in great shape for around $500. If I was going to buy a model 10 right now, that's what I'd do. In fact, all of my revolvers,, K, L, and J frames, I've bought used. It's a very small price to pay for having a gun collection when you are on a tight budget. Truthfully, I prefer older guns.
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Bob Smalser
Member
News incidents this week make the case for revolvers.
2 or 3 shots followed by a failure to feed.
2 or 3 shots followed by a failure to feed.
Kasian
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Kasian
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I consider the best beginner's revolver K-frame 4 " .38/.357 Magnum. 686 was too heavy even for the strongest beginner. Maybe some day later... S&W 66-8 fits perfectly, something very close to perfection.
vulcan73
Member
OP: I'm not about to read 6 pages of comments but here's my take on your original question. These may have been already mentioned and are purely subjective:
(1) Any Ruger wheel gun, new or used.
(2) Never shoot a commercial 357 load out of a 2" snubby 357; 38Spl +P's only in "2" snubby. (My first and last commercial 357 load that I fired from a 2" 357 nearly broke my wrist and threw me backwards.)
(3) Rossi wheel guns are very good, both older and new models. Don't be misled into believing because they are "affordable" they are not quality pieces. I prefer my Rossi 88 over a S&W J-frame any day. Newer Taurus revolvers branded as BrazTech produced by Rossi are quality wheel guns. I recently ordered a 3" Taurus 856 Defender, 38Spl +P, awaiting its arrival.
(4) I would avoid a polymer framed wheel gun. I can't imagine a polymer frame holding up to the stress of the recoil of a revolver. They clearly work in a semiauto but even then, I had one frame crack (Shield 9mm). Polymer frame wheel gun? No thanks.
(5) If you are going to carry your wheel gun, a covered hammer has some advantage over an exposed spur hammer, but it depends on the holster. I carry exposed hammered revolvers and never have any concerns about snagging on clothing. I do admit my holsters are outside, on hip. Pocket carrying never worked for me other than tossing something in a rear pocket while working in the yard.
((For the record, I have S&W, Ruger, Rossi and Taurus wheel guns. My carry wheel guns are Rossi 461 and 462's with handloaded 38Spl +P loads (very light 357 loads). I also have Rossi 68 and 88, 2", 5 round 38's plus a 1970'ish vintage Rossi S&W J-frame clone. My next wheel gun will be a Ruger 2.75" Security Six, Speed Six, Service Six or GP100. I'm willing to spend the big bucks, particularly for one of these gems in Stainless.))
Good luck with your choice.
(1) Any Ruger wheel gun, new or used.
(2) Never shoot a commercial 357 load out of a 2" snubby 357; 38Spl +P's only in "2" snubby. (My first and last commercial 357 load that I fired from a 2" 357 nearly broke my wrist and threw me backwards.)
(3) Rossi wheel guns are very good, both older and new models. Don't be misled into believing because they are "affordable" they are not quality pieces. I prefer my Rossi 88 over a S&W J-frame any day. Newer Taurus revolvers branded as BrazTech produced by Rossi are quality wheel guns. I recently ordered a 3" Taurus 856 Defender, 38Spl +P, awaiting its arrival.
(4) I would avoid a polymer framed wheel gun. I can't imagine a polymer frame holding up to the stress of the recoil of a revolver. They clearly work in a semiauto but even then, I had one frame crack (Shield 9mm). Polymer frame wheel gun? No thanks.
(5) If you are going to carry your wheel gun, a covered hammer has some advantage over an exposed spur hammer, but it depends on the holster. I carry exposed hammered revolvers and never have any concerns about snagging on clothing. I do admit my holsters are outside, on hip. Pocket carrying never worked for me other than tossing something in a rear pocket while working in the yard.
((For the record, I have S&W, Ruger, Rossi and Taurus wheel guns. My carry wheel guns are Rossi 461 and 462's with handloaded 38Spl +P loads (very light 357 loads). I also have Rossi 68 and 88, 2", 5 round 38's plus a 1970'ish vintage Rossi S&W J-frame clone. My next wheel gun will be a Ruger 2.75" Security Six, Speed Six, Service Six or GP100. I'm willing to spend the big bucks, particularly for one of these gems in Stainless.))
Good luck with your choice.
CollinCountyLawman
Member
I started picking up revolvers last year. I've switched my duty pistol from a Glock 19 to a Chiappa Rhino 30DS. Then I bought my first S&W. I got a Model 65. Then a 581 no dash. Then I picked up two Model 10-10s.
Today, I am currently carrying both Model 10-10s for worked. I got them for $429.99 each. I am using Federal 158gr 38 Special +P Lead Semi-Wad Cutters. I highly recommend getting an older Model 10 or 64 in 3" or 4". A Model 10 or 64/Model 13 or 65 will give you fixed sights. Put a spurless hammer on it for the perfect concealed carry pistol. Pick up some Safariland Comp II speedloaders and you are good to go.
Today, I am currently carrying both Model 10-10s for worked. I got them for $429.99 each. I am using Federal 158gr 38 Special +P Lead Semi-Wad Cutters. I highly recommend getting an older Model 10 or 64 in 3" or 4". A Model 10 or 64/Model 13 or 65 will give you fixed sights. Put a spurless hammer on it for the perfect concealed carry pistol. Pick up some Safariland Comp II speedloaders and you are good to go.
pedropcola
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S&W revolvers are what got me started shooting back in the 80's. My best suggestion would be to save up a bit longer and get a good gun, not a good priced gun. Ie, for a first gun I would want adjustable sights, good grips, 4 inch barrel, and the caliber of choice. I love 38's but I probably will never buy a 38 ever again (my first gun was a 67, if I could talk to my teenage self I would have bought a 66). If you go 38 then buy a 357. The tradeoffs are price, weight, and some will say accuracy swapping between the 2 but I think that is a theoretical difference to most shooters.
To the point above, I would avoid the Taurus' of the world. It might be fine it might not. If you ever need to warranty some issue I would much rather deal with Ruger or S&W. If you ever go to sell your revolver you can get your money back (or a good chunk of it) with those two. If you sell a used Taurus I would expect you won't get back much. Go to any used gun counter, if you want an inexpensive gun then find the Taurus of your dreams and barter the price down, a bunch. Odds are you will get it cheap. Taurus makes some good stuff. They make some crap. Any warranty issues I have ever had with smith or Ruger have been taken care of quickly and easily. Warranty issues happen with all brands.
If you were my kin I would point you to a good 22. It teaches all the good skills, it's fun, it's cheap to shoot. Buy a loading block and a Speed Beez speed loader and it is easy to shoot a bunch and to shoot cheaply all day long.
You and I have different values but if I was going to buy one 22 today it would either be the new Mountain Gun 617 (I love the no lock old school-ish look) or a Ruger SP101. Obviously any 617 would work I just prefer the MG feature set and the price tag while bothersome wouldn't stop me.
Shooting 38's is expensive unless you reload. They are significantly more $$$ than 9mm and 9mm revolvers are out there but are limited in availability and moon clips aren't great. They bring a whole other cost to the table and without them you are shooting one cylinder and then banging out the empties with a stick, not ideal.
22 for the win. Best one you can afford. Have fun and good luck.
To the point above, I would avoid the Taurus' of the world. It might be fine it might not. If you ever need to warranty some issue I would much rather deal with Ruger or S&W. If you ever go to sell your revolver you can get your money back (or a good chunk of it) with those two. If you sell a used Taurus I would expect you won't get back much. Go to any used gun counter, if you want an inexpensive gun then find the Taurus of your dreams and barter the price down, a bunch. Odds are you will get it cheap. Taurus makes some good stuff. They make some crap. Any warranty issues I have ever had with smith or Ruger have been taken care of quickly and easily. Warranty issues happen with all brands.
If you were my kin I would point you to a good 22. It teaches all the good skills, it's fun, it's cheap to shoot. Buy a loading block and a Speed Beez speed loader and it is easy to shoot a bunch and to shoot cheaply all day long.
You and I have different values but if I was going to buy one 22 today it would either be the new Mountain Gun 617 (I love the no lock old school-ish look) or a Ruger SP101. Obviously any 617 would work I just prefer the MG feature set and the price tag while bothersome wouldn't stop me.
Shooting 38's is expensive unless you reload. They are significantly more $$$ than 9mm and 9mm revolvers are out there but are limited in availability and moon clips aren't great. They bring a whole other cost to the table and without them you are shooting one cylinder and then banging out the empties with a stick, not ideal.
22 for the win. Best one you can afford. Have fun and good luck.
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Forget about shavings. The issue applies to a wobbly cylinder as a gun wears out. If the cylinder is loose at all, you would not buy that gun anyway.
I own maybe 35 DA/SA wheel guns, most are SW, but also Ruger, Rossi, Taurus, Colt, and Charter Arms. None of them shave lead and all are properly time. One model 10..is over 100 years old.
First, nothing wrong with the last 2 you mentioned. Charters are fine, I just do not believe they will last thousands of rounds like a Smith and Wesson would. Taurus has really thrived in recent years. I would buy a new one if you went with that brand, about half the cost of the SW. And we have some Rossis around here, they are fine, but the new ones are much better than the old, I suggest only a current one if you buy Rossi, which comes with the warranty, of course.
I do not like the 9mm for a first wheel gun--however, there is zero wrong with the concept if you buy a bunch of moon clips and carry them everywhere you go. I own a Smith and Wesson Governor and shoot 45 acp in it with moon clips, fast and handy. I have enough moon clips that I keep over 200 rounds loaded and there is never any delay is I go to a range.
Taurus make a 9mm as does Ruger. They get great reviews. Buds Gun Shop has them now. You have the short barrel and sight radios, I have actually been thinking of one, just for fun shooting. I am thinking this may be the one for you. Those reviews go back to 2009, 16 years, the gun is stable, long term. https://www.budsgunshop.com/product_info.php/products_id/32371/taurus+905+stainless+9mm+revolver
Charter Arms has the unique one that does not take moon clips, instead a little spring device for each cylinder that works well. They offer a dual cylinder that allows for 9mm, 38 and 357, and different barrel lengths. I only own one Charter but would buy one of these in a heartbeat.
The reviews on the one on the right, (24) go back 10 years, nothing of substance in them. And the world is your oyster you have so many choices. That combo looks very good at $530. They even have some with a 6 inch target version.
I am thinking you would be well served with one in 9mm or one of these combos.
I also want to comment again about buying new vs used. As a SW and other wheel gun collector, I know exactly what I am buying. If I need to shim it or tune the trigger or change out a parts, I order them and replace them, sometimes, I can make a part from scratch, it is just a part of being an avid gun guy.
But for most people, it is cheaper, safer and smarter, to buy new, but only with a lifetime warranty. All warranty service will take time, but they will make the gun like new. On a used gun, you bear the cost of making a used gun like new. So, the new gun from SW, Ruger, Taurus, Rossi and others will come with a warranty....that not only has value today but maybe 5 years from today.
Also note" Some gun companies require you to "register" your new gun with them within 30 days or you lose the warranty. I do not think they enforce that, but it would be foolish not to do so, you just went through a background check anyway, so just register the gun. That also proves ownership if the gun is ever stolen. Just a reminder.
Buy a gun and give us some feed back.
Consider the Ruger 6" "Super Wrangler" if cost is a factor. At around $200, it comes with two cylinders. A .22LR and also a .22 WRM (22 magnum). This allows lots of trigger time for very little $$ using the .22LR ammo, and when more punch is required for hunting, a quick switch of cylinders to .22 magnum is all that's needed.
It is a single action design, if that matters to you.
Ruger Super Wrangler .22 Single-Action Revolver in .22 LR or .22 Magnum - Handguns
The new Ruger Super Wrangler is a super-capable yet inexpensive .22 LR/.22 Magnum single-action revolver. Here's a full review.
www.handgunsmag.com
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