Need help savage double barrel

[dsanders3906]

My double barrel will not cock. can take off stock and cock manually, but will not eject shells or cock when manually breaking down the gun... I know the normal and logical thing to do is take it to a gunsmith. If there was one in my area, I would. However, there is not one close. Just looking for a round about reason why this is occurring. Thanks

It is a Stevens/ Savage 12 gauge .311a

 

[roughedgekid]

Is it catching the cocking cam when you break it down? It would be best to have a gunsmith look at it even if you have to ship it. How old is it?

 

[Jebus35745]

If you live near Cleveland Oh, there is a Gunsmith named Walt Wisdom (not sure of spelling) in a gun shop in E Cleve. Don't remember the gun shop name but ask for Walt when someone answers. He's a SXS smith and to be honest, I'm not sure if he is still working. Good luck, Larry

 

[2152hq]

Here's a schematic of the 311
Stevens Shotgun Parts. Stevens Autsomatic Shotgun Parts, Stevens ...

Part #35 ....cocking plunger..located in the bbl assembly itself.

Part #29....cocking lever or arm....this is located in the frame itself. You can see part of it,,the front leg,,sticking out slightly from the cut out in the frame w/the bbls removed.

The cocking plunger (35) is pushed to the rear and engages the cocking lever (29) ONLY when the forend is in place on the gun.
With the forend removed,,the spring loaded cocking rod moves out of engagement and allows the bbls to be taken off the frame.

Check to see that the cocking plunger #35 is in place. That it is under spring tension and moves forward (muzzle) when pressure is taken off of it. The slight 'flat' on the cocking plunger should be facing upwards and to the rear when in place.
It has to be able to slide underneath the cocking lever in the frame to rotate the hammers back and cock them to the sears.

The forend iron itself is what pushes the cocking plunger to the rear and into engagement.
You can check to see if it is with the bbls off of the frame. Assemble the forend (complete) onto the separated bbls. Carefully set it in place as if the frame were still attached and rotate it down to the bbls and snapped shut. It doesn't need the frame to be held in place.
With the forend snapped onto the bbl assembly, watch and check to see that the cocking plunger moves backward under spring tension as it should. It should move forward as the forend is then removed.

I think there are 2 different diameter, slightly different cocking plungers (35) for the 311 series. Could be a problem if the smaller dia one is in place where the larger one is supposed to be.

The front leg of the cocking lever (29) being completely broken off is a possibility, but a rare one.
Nothing for the plunger to engage at that point so the hammers don't retract when the bbls are opened.

Short of something in this sequence not set up right, worn, missing or damaged causing the problem,,I'd have to have it in hand to see anything further.

Hope this helps.

 

[dsanders3906]

thanks for the replies. I found the problem thanks to the post it helped me narrow the problem down. the eject was lose and was not putting pressure on the plunger and the plunger spring is also shot upon further inspection. I am assuming this is neglect from the previous owner, but I should have inspected the gun more thoroughly before buying. either way 15 dollar fix from numrich. Thanks

 

[Jebus35745]

Glad it worked pot for you. The gun is really one of the easier ones to work on. Good gun, not a lot of hand fitting when made but a proven work horse. Larry

 

[Salty RI]

I bought a 20 ga, back in the early 60's used, still using it to this day.