Need Help with Model Identification!

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Some pics before the soak
 

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This has to be the best forum on the planet. Thanks again everyone for the advice. Please give any that you think may be helpful. This will be my first S&W restore. And interesting story is I only gave 40 bucks for it. Also should I dip the screw from the grip in the acetone as well?
 

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Hello Delta, great gun and looks like a fun project. Pls. post a clear
pic of the flat of the butt. Pic of Sn.? Is missing. Have the numbers been ground in the flat portion of the yoke?

Will post more pics soon. Just started the soak. The numbers on the yoke match. I researched that these numbers are to keep the yoke and cylinder together during manufacturing. I will have to wait till paint is removed to see how much is legible. I can only make out four digits on butt so far but I can tell there are 5 digits under the barrel just not clean enough to make out yet.
 
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Mineral spirits will not remove the paint. Acetone might but not likely. I would use citristrip on the paint. Scrub with a nylon brush. May take more than one application.
 
There are several types of chemical paint removers. I would think that acetone or MEK would soften most common paints. Other paint removers use chlorinated solvents such as methylene chloride. Epoxy paints usually are unaffected by solvents. About the only way to remove them is mechanically, e.g., sanding or bead blasting.
 
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There are several types of chemical paint removers. I would think that acetone or MEK would handle most common paints. Other paint removers use chlorinated solvents such as methylene chloride. Epoxy paints usually are unaffected by solvents. About the only way to remove them is mechanically, e.g., sanding or bead blasting.

After an hour of soaking. I'm starting to see debris and some paint floating in the acetone already.
 
Glad to hear the acetone is working! Depending on the paint characteristics, sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. Scrubbing occasionally with a nylon brush may speed up the process. Wear nitrile gloves and work in a well ventilated area!
 
Any suggestions for the wooden grips? Should I try some type of restoration? If so what do you guys recommend? Or should I look into replacements? If I replace should I try going back wood or something more modern? I definitely plan to keep it as a collectors weapon more so than an everyday carry.
 
Another one of the features I have noticed so far is that the trigger is also serrated. I don't know the history behind it but it's pretty cool
 
I think those stocks are beyond restoration. Once you are done with the metal look for period correct replacements.

As an aside, if anyone uses MEK, be very cautious and read and heed the warnings.
 
I agree. The grips are too far gone. Workable J-frame grip replacements in higher condition are easily found. Try eBay. It is very unusual to find grips showing that much wear, perhaps someone took sandpaper to them.
 
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Fun project!

But I disagree with others on replacing the wood stocks. While heavily worn, I think they'd look fantastic on this gun once the paint has been removed.

In any event, the inside of one of the grip panels should be serial numbered to the gun. If this is the factory original stocks, then *please* keep them with the gun. Once they are separated, they will probably be separated forever.

Mike
 
Some in between scrubbing pics. I think the acetone is doing great so far
 

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As to the Grips, I like the well worn look!. They look extremely dry so my first step would be to make a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and Boiled Linseed Oil. Soak them in a little plastic tub and remove them every few days, wipe them down and let them sit in the sun for a few days then repeat the process.
 
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