DWalt
Member
If I still had access to bluing tanks and a bead blast cabinet, I would bead blast the whole thing and hot blue it.
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Need Help with Model Identification!
- Thread starter DeltaCompany
- Start date
As for the grips, here is the info simply put: yes it is true that the first Chief's special was a J frame, but it is also true that the first J frames, which are 5 screw, used the standard I frame round butt grip frame profile. The important consideration here is what makes an I frame an I frame and a J frame a J frame? It is the cylinder window. The original I frame was intended to be 6 shot 32 S&W long cal, and the cylinder window was found to be too short for the 38 special, hence the J frame development. How about some interesting S&W grip trivia? The much earlier 38 S&W top breaks had nearly the same grip dimension as your gun and the round butt I frames and occasionally you will see the black hard rubber grips on later hand ejector guns, which fit well, and at times vice versa too. The late production "lemon squeezer" top breaks actually were originally sold with wood grips, but those are somewhat scarce today. The later 4 screw J frame has a longer grip frame, as others have said and as that great photo comparison shows.
Although your gun is a J frame, because of this somewhat complicated grip and grip frame history, you would want to search for I frame grips or you could perhaps find a S&W guy who has grips and knows the history, and instead say "first model J frame grips"
To add more confusion, most gun dealers or most anyone selling a pair of grips will routinely sell a pair of I frame grips and claim they are J frame because the differences are somewhat subtle unless you have them side by side.
I may have a good set I could spare actually...
Although your gun is a J frame, because of this somewhat complicated grip and grip frame history, you would want to search for I frame grips or you could perhaps find a S&W guy who has grips and knows the history, and instead say "first model J frame grips"
To add more confusion, most gun dealers or most anyone selling a pair of grips will routinely sell a pair of I frame grips and claim they are J frame because the differences are somewhat subtle unless you have them side by side. I may have a good set I could spare actually...
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DWalt
Member
I had earlier mentioned for exactly the same reason that a good quality pair of replica grips made for S&W .38 top break revolvers might be a satisfactory fit for use on a BC. The internet is full of such replica grips of several designs at relatively modest prices. I have not tried doing that as I do not have a BC but maybe someone here has, and could provide helpful input. But I do know that combat style full coverage J-frame grips fit fine on old S&W .38 DA top break revolvers. And such grips make them far more comfortable to shoot. They just look strange.As for the grips, here is the info simply put: yes it is true that the first Chief's special was a J frame, but it is also true that the first J frames, which are 5 screw, used the standard I frame round butt grip frame profile. The important consideration here is what makes an I frame an I frame and a J frame a J frame? It is the cylinder window. The original I frame was intended to be 6 shot 32 S&W long cal, and the cylinder window was found to be too short for the 38 special, hence the J frame development. How about some interesting S&W grip trivia? The much earlier 38 S&W top breaks had nearly the same grip dimension as your gun and the round butt I frames and occasionally you will see the black hard rubber grips on later hand ejector guns, which fit well, and at times vice versa too. The late production "lemon squeezer" top breaks actually were originally sold with wood grips, but those are somewhat scarce today. The later 4 screw J frame has a longer grip frame, as others have said and as that great photo comparison shows.
Although your gun is a J frame, because of this somewhat complicated grip and grip frame history, you would want to search for I frame grips or you could perhaps find a S&W guy who has grips and knows the history, and instead say "first model J frame grips"
I may have a good set I could spare actually...
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To end the grip size confusion:
You want pre model of 1953 I or J frame grips, they are the same!!
After 1953 both the I and J are once again the SAME BUT 1/8" longer than your grip frame.
The vintage and version of your .38 Chiefs Special is referred to as the Baby J frame.
You want pre model of 1953 I or J frame grips, they are the same!!
After 1953 both the I and J are once again the SAME BUT 1/8" longer than your grip frame.
The vintage and version of your .38 Chiefs Special is referred to as the Baby J frame.
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Oh what a feeling when that last screw breaks loose! Then another set of emotions arise when I get my first peek at the "clockwork." Well done DC.
I have 2 questions for the more experienced members.
1. Is there a spring behind the hammer nose?
2. How well does an ultrasonic cleaner work on small parts in this condition?
Waiting patiently for an update
Attachments
Again just to reiterate what Lee posted, the Chief Special was NEVER built on the I frame. The larger .38 special cartridge required a larger cylinder window and therefore the J frame was born. Yes there was no need to enlarge the grip frame size and the trigger guard to accommodate this new cartridge so they were left the same size as the predecessor I frame but they were NEVER built on the I frame. Collectors have separated these two J frame models by referring to the first guns produced as the "Baby Chief".
Ideally for all concerned, it would have been easier if like the I frame predecessor, S&W had called it the J frame and then when enlarged, the Improved J frame. Due to the more powerful .38 Special cartridge, the smaller size grip and trigger guard proved problematic and they were increased in size.
Lastly, as noted in the photo Dwalt posted, they are called stocks by S&W and not grips. The founders, IMHO, went to great lengths to differentiate themselves from their small competitor down the street in CT. While the other little gun company used the terms checkering, crane and grips, Daniel and Horace chose to use checking, yoke and stocks. These are small differences but for folks like me with OCD, very important.
I will also restate my appeal to keep the original stocks with the gun. Even after paint removal and rust removal, this piece will never be in 100% condition. As a carpenter and purist collector, I would much rather see the original, albeit repaired, stocks remain with the gun. There are folks on this sight that have repaired stocks with huge chunks missing and if you did not know where the repair was done, you would be hard pressed to find it.
With as much effort as you are putting into the metal, I think it only fair to give the only original stocks a chance.
Again, these are my personal feelings and as it is your firearm and this is a free country (so far), the choices are yours and yours alone.
Please keep sending the photos of your progress as it is fascinating to watch.
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Some have a spring, your model does not if I recall correctly.
An ultrasound cleaner works perfectly, not only for small parts but the entire gun disassembled.
An ultrasound cleaner works perfectly, not only for small parts but the entire gun disassembled.
Haven't heard from you for a while. How's it coming?
Also, is the serial number stamped on the bottom of the barrel?
I've been hoping to see an update too, and I didn't think I was the only one.
I hope the Delta Company is still in business.
