New rifle...Failure to Fire

Funny, my rifle shoots fine but have never known the firing pin to mark the bullet. It does however crush the rim of the case quite nicely.
 
Down side of using a compressor is the water in the air. Maybe it is not an issue for you Yankees living up north, but down south we have loads of humidity. When a compressor pressurizes the air by reducing its volume, most of the water vapor condenses into liquid water and remains in the compressor tank and air lines.

So down here, we have to use dryers/separators, but even then there still is some moisture in the air. To get completely dry air down here requires some very specialized & expensive attachments.

That's why you (1) bleed the tank on a regular basis and (2) put a dryer in the line. Even with the moisture issue, a compressor is much more useful than canned air. Ever try to inflate a flat tire with canned air? :D
 
Funny, my rifle shoots fine but have never known the firing pin to mark the bullet. It does however crush the rim of the case quite nicely.

Some folks just don't know that the bullet is just the pointy thing at the end of the cartridge. :D
 
Smarties. The word bullet is often used to include the projectile, powder, primer, and case. No reason to be obnoxious.
 
Smarties. The word bullet is often used to include the projectile, powder, primer, and case. No reason to be obnoxious.

And if you look around here, the word your is often used for you're.. or there used instead of their. The misuse of a word by others doesn't somehow make it correct.

Also, if you note, the Major gave a smiley.
 
If it is functioning correctly, I see no need to do anything but enjoy shooting.
Sounds like you probably corrected the issue. Honestly I wouldn't worry about it, but don't continue to dry fire it without a snap cap.
 
Sounds like you probably corrected the issue. Honestly I wouldn't worry about it, but don't continue to dry fire it without a snap cap.

Unnecessary. The firing pin isn't long enough, even at full extension, to reach the bolt face. The shoulder on the firing pin prevents this.
 
Unnecessary. The firing pin isn't long enough, even at full extension, to reach the bolt face. The shoulder on the firing pin prevents this.
Really, I learned something new...I though I read a warning against dry firing the 15-22 in the manual. Must be mistaking with another .22 rimfire.
 
Really, I learned something new...I though I read a warning against dry firing the 15-22 in the manual. Must be mistaking with another .22 rimfire.

The warning is there. The only way a firearm can be damaged by dry firing is for the tip of the firing pin to make contact with the bolt face. The original pin did touch the bolt face at full extension. This was one of the problems with the slam fire OOB problem on the first generation production. Changing to a shorter, inertia firing pin and some spring changes solved that problem and also eliminated any dry fire problems.

Like the years-outdated ammo list, the manual has never been revised. The ammo lists were generated based on user reports of the OOB problem, not any extensive testing by S&W. Three fourths of current ammo choices are not even mentioned, hence all the "will this work/damage my rifle" questions.

It's long past time for S&W to bring out a revised manual.
 
From the manual...Caution: Never dry-fire the rifle as damage
to the firearm could result.
However, since the firing pin wouldn't strike the CARTRIDGE, I didn't see I had a lot to lose, at the time. I agree with Majorlk though, that it isn't likely to cause damage to the firing pin or breech. On the other hand, especially if the rifle is broken down, the hammer will hit a polymer stop and that for SURE would be a bad idea. This is also in the manual...Note: Never dry-fire with the rifle
disassembled.
 
From the manual...Caution: Never dry-fire the rifle as damage
to the firearm could result.
However, since the firing pin wouldn't strike the CARTRIDGE, I didn't see I had a lot to lose, at the time. I agree with Majorlk though, that it isn't likely to cause damage to the firing pin or breech. On the other hand, especially if the rifle is broken down, the hammer will hit a polymer stop and that for SURE would be a bad idea. This is also in the manual...Note: Never dry-fire with the rifle
disassembled.

That's a totally different issue and IS a very bad idea.
 
I can just see it now ...

The 15-22 version of the M1 Thumb!!! :D

(I wonder if we'll have to explain that to the youngsters on the forum? :D)

I trained on the M1 and can actually say I never got " the thumb". Lots did. What a rifle.
 
I trained on the M1 and can actually say I never got " the thumb". Lots did. What a rifle.

Luck you! I got a good case of it in high school ROTC back in the 60s. Only did it once, though. :)

You are right about the Garand, though. I have a 1943 Springfield build that was rebuilt in '87 into a glass bedded National Match .308/7.62. It's a dream to shoot.
 
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