New to me 29-2 - How should I deal with wear?

[Doug M.]

There are few circumstances under which the really stout loads are needed. They also tend to be unpleasant, and as I get older and more bashed up, I avoid them. You can use .44 Specials with moderate data, or the same basic loads in magnum cases if you want, and it is almost certain that those loads will do all you are likely to ever need.
I have gone pretty much old school, and other than revolvers in auto pistol calibers that get good quality duty ammo consistent with the pistols (Doc Roberts' ammo recommendations), I prefer SWCs at moderate velocity for adequate performance and the ability to shoot them rapidly.
Am I an expert? No, but I am educated. Search for the thing in which Dave Keith described the performance of a .44 Special while hunting elk. It's likely a decade or more old. The odds are good that if it is good enough for hunting elk, it will do every thing you will ever need.

 

[CKPOMEH]

Thanks, but I have .44 Specials. As I mentioned, I bought this one to shoot .44 Magnum loads, albeit not a lot of heavy loads. Wear in these guns is enough of a problem that S&W spent years on efforts to make them more durable. I am trying to decide whether to make some of those mods and, if so, now or wait until endshake becomes excessive, the cylinder starts rotating backward onto an empty chamber, shrapnel starts flying out of the barrel-cylinder gap, etc.?

Shoot it first. I have a handful of 29s and 629s and they all operate as they should (no issues at all), have some of the best DA triggers within the S&W family, and for the most part I shoot 4 or 5 cylinders (25-30 rounds) at a time - after that is not fun anymore, especially if you keep those Target Stocks on it.

If you end ups shooting in a alike quantities, you will not need to do anything to it, it will be fine (unless you are pushing some Buffalo Bore hunting loads but why would you through a 4 inch one, you should get 8 3/8s if you plan to hunt with it regularly.

If you plan on shooting more / do serious hunting with it, you may be better off getting a 629 - it is stronger SS, newer, some come with the endurance packages, etc...

I would not mess around with a nice 29 as the one you have bought. But I am more of a collector than a shooter in the 44 Magnum cartridge, so your needs may be different.

 

[Bruceboy]

I fell for a beautiful 4" Model 29-2 and bought it on sight. It is practically NIB. I am thrilled to get it but I am aware that it won't be as durable as later Model 29s that have the endurance upgrades. I remember these revolvers spitting lead and jacket fragments back in the 70s and saw the cylinder rotate backward on one gun. I plan to shoot mostly mid-range and below-maximum cast bullet loads in this revolver, so hopefully will never have to worry about significant wear, but I would appreciate advice on the following:

Should I be pro-active and have as many as possible of the endurance package features installed now, such as springs, bolt stop, etc.? I understand that it may not be feasible to retrofit some of the endurance upgrades such as lengthened cylinder stop & notches, bolt block, radiused studs and cylinder yoke mod with heat treatment.

If I should retrofit as many of the endurance features as possible, should I send it to the factory or to a gunsmith? Any recommendations for a good gunsmith for the older Smiths?

I plan on having the forcing cone opened to 11 degrees as well. Any thoughts about having it done by the factory vs. a gunsmith?

Thank you

What CH4 said and don't beat up on yourself. (be nice to yourself and enjoy your .44 mag.)

Good luck,

Al

 

[Tracksidewrong]

Law-dog, I'm wondering as to why you would suggest not shooting lead through a 29?

In another thread somewhere here I read that they should only be shot with lead. Lol

For what it's worth, the 629-1 in my avatar that I have owned for 24 years at this point has had thousands of my lead 245 gr handloads through it, all at 1200+ FPS. I have maybe put 1000 jacketed slugs through it. I can't say that I have had issues with my barrel or the forcing cone leading, but I also keep on top of it so it doesn't build up excessively.

However, I will add this, I have not 100% confirmed it, but I'm pretty sure that at times this revolver will reverse the cylinder on firing. I would also say that it is slightly out of time due to cylinder stop lock up, but it doesn't seem to shave lead.

What would the members here of the form consider a hot/high velocity for a 240 to 250 grain lead non gas checked slug? I just put a load together the other day for testing with 2400 powder and out of my 8 3/8" 29-2 it gave me 1550 FPS. I will be backing that load down!

 

[Shooter308]

Shooting my Model 29-2 4" in IDPA match at Port Malabar Rifle and Pistol Club on the 28th. Been running my model 65 for most of the year. Got ahold of some 44 Specials at a good price so I bought a 1,000 rounds. Should be a hoot.

 

[PauldL]

Shooting my Model 29-2 4" in IDPA match at Port Malabar Rifle and Pistol Club on the 28th. Been running my model 65 for most of the year. Got ahold of some 44 Specials at a good price so I bought a 1,000 rounds. Should be a hoot.

Good man!

 

[AEM]

I read an article some years ago by Brian Pearce in Handloader magazine that included 3(?) different pressure levels of .44 mag loads. I don't remember the specifics, psi levels, etc. but I do remember him saying that for him the pre-endurance package 29's should be treated like a fine English double-gun. Full house loads, occasionally ok but not a steady diet, particularly the 300 gr. bear busters that have become available, i.e. Cor-Bon and heavy handloads. I've taken that to heart and baby my 29-2. If I need to stop a freight train with one shot I'll break out the Ruger or 29-5 Classic Hunter.

You have an excellent memory. Brian Pearce's excellent article entitled "50 Years With the .44 Magnum" is in Handloader Vol. 41, No. 3, Issue 241, June-July 2006. It should have been titled "50 Years With the S&W Model 29," since it is specific to that model. Brian answered all my questions and, as a result, I am working on a mid-range load of a cast, plain base SWC of 240-250 grains at about 1100 fps. Once I get the accuracy I need, that load will be the Go-To load for this sweet 29-2.

Several people have asked why I don't shoot .44 Special loads or why I didn't buy a later Model 29 or 629 for full power loads. I actually have the two ends of the spectrum covered. I have two .44 Specials, a S&W Model 24-3 and a Ruger New Model Flattop. I shoot .44 Special loads in both. I have a S&W 629-3 Classic and a first gen Ruger Flattop Blackhawk that I use to shoot full magnum loads. I bought the Model 29-2 because it is no nice and I want to be sure I don't create any undue wear and tear on it. I shoot my guns but I also take care of them. And I always wear eye protection!

I am getting to know the 29-2. All six chamber throats measure .432". The endshake is .001" (.006-.007"). I will slug the bore next. I am going to leave it stock except that I will swap out the .500" grooved target trigger for a .400" smooth trigger. Don't worry, I will keep the target trigger so I can restore the revolver to the condition as it left the factory. The target trigger is just awkward and uncomfortable for me. Skeeter Skelton replaced the target hammer and trigger with the standard size units on his first Model 29 and wrote that it greatly improved the handling qualities of the revolver. Ol' Skeeter was right. You have to feel the difference to believe it. I have a good friend who is a very knowledgeable and experienced S&W revolver guy. He picked up my Model 57 which I had fitted with the .400" smooth trigger and his eyes widened. "It's amazing how much better that feels," he said.

Thanks to all for your advice and all the compliments on the revolver.